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dc
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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 Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 5:48 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
Looking goog man looking good. That truck has come a long way since the last time I saw it in person (2012 Invasion). Nice job.  |
Thanks! I can't afford to buy more cars and I don't want to sell this one and I don't have much space...so I just keep working on this one 
The wood bed is getting close to the big reveal  It's looking very pretty 
The Weber carb replacement project will be next. HOWEVER-- The truck is currently running very poorly  The engine doesn't start easily--- needs lots of gas to catch- then it pops and backfires- takes a while to warm up and then runs OK but not great.
Hmmm.... Fuel pump? Tuning issue (distributor - I'm running a 019 with points)? Bad carbs.?
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1963 Karmann Ghia |
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dc
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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| Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 5:14 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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The Aussie-Style wood floor is done and installed 
The large bolt heads mark the spot where the metal hoops attach (or the tonneau cover)
Yep - That's Bus DeLuxe trim on the belt-line-- it is bus metal after all...
Just some basic hammer work on the wheel wells - good enough 
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1963 Karmann Ghia |
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Peters Van
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Joined: March 27, 2014
Posts: 357
Location: Goulburn NSW Australia
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| Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:48 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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the timber in the back looks nearly as good as our aussie panelvans
but i am biased afterall.
great work.......
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1965 Type 3 Panel Van
1963 EH Holden Station Wagon |
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eyetzr 
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1425
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 3:40 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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Nice work there dc. I like a lot. 
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I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done" |
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dc
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 6:06 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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Thanks guys I'm pleased with the way it turned out
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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dc
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 8:02 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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| MonT3 wrote: |
| Beautiful work on that panel backend. The whole package is nicely done dc. Congrats on your accomplishment. What's next? |
Thanks 
Next?
Idle and rough running has gone down hill... now it won't even hold an idle  Started investigating: Pulled the cap and it looked like water got in the distributor-- rust on the rotor and points not opening correctly-- also had a cracked/non sealing plug on one of the carb vacuum ports. Replaced the vacuum plug- cleaned the rust off the rotor (didn't have a replacement) adjusted the point gap... tried it out -- not better
Hope I didn't damage anything - seems to be pump gas fine and turns over fine - but backfires and won't idle now
Ordered a new rotor and cap and going to ditch points for electronic ignition.
Any ideas?
In the meantime, Tom (my mechanic friend) is rebuilding a nice set of stock Solex carbs to replace the Webers. Fingers crossed!
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 5:46 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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| dc wrote: |
| MonT3 wrote: |
| Beautiful work on that panel backend. The whole package is nicely done dc. Congrats on your accomplishment. What's next? |
Thanks
Next?
Idle and rough running has gone down hill... now it won't even hold an idle Started investigating: Pulled the cap and it looked like water got in the distributor-- rust on the rotor and points not opening correctly-- also had a cracked/non sealing plug on one of the carb vacuum ports. Replaced the vacuum plug- cleaned the rust off the rotor (didn't have a replacement) adjusted the point gap... tried it out -- not better
Hope I didn't damage anything - seems to be pump gas fine and turns over fine - but backfires and won't idle now
Ordered a new rotor and cap and going to ditch points for electronic ignition.
Any ideas?
In the meantime, Tom (my mechanic friend) is rebuilding a nice set of stock Solex carbs to replace the Webers. Fingers crossed! |
I had some similar issues after finding the cracked manifold. After replacing that piece and putting the carb back on, I was still experiencing very sluggish behavior and bad idling. I did the following:
- Replaced all the plugs and wires – I learned my #2 wasn’t firing so after getting the wires in place, that went away. But the tach spikes were still there. With the recommendation of a buddy, I pulled the plugs, gapped the new ones and slipped them in. Huge difference.
- Rebuilt both carbs – I initially rebuilt one due to the air mix screw. I later found the same issue was taking place on the other side. In rebuilding the carbs, I took the time to pull all the pieces off, clean them thoroughly and re-assembly them with different throttle body and linkage. I noticed on the of the linkages had a weird motion to it when whole thing was put together and I was trying to sync the carbs that I pulled the carb and swapped out the throttle body and linkage once again and put it all together
- Coil – Since I replaced everything from the plugs to the wires, I replaced the coil as well.
- Distro – I had an electronic ignition set up in my 205G before I was having all these issues. As part of the troubleshooting at that time, I pulled that distro and put in my spare 009 with points and haven’t swapped it out as the car settled down with the idling. Then there was this fuel pressure thing going on.
- Fuel pump rod mod - After running the car for a while and shutting her down, I’d pull the cover off and have a look for leaks, .etc and I could hear what sounded to me like the carb were pushing fuel into the manifold and such. I took a look and confirmed it to was the case. I put a gauge on the fuel line and got a 4.5lbs reading which as I understand it is the norm but still, dumping that much fuel until the pressure subsided was not a good thing for the engine, so after some more discussion, I pulled the Brazilian pump and pulled out the rod and ground off a fraction of an inch off (I have the specs on my phone but my phones not with me at the moment). I reduced the fuel pressure down to 2lbs. I don’t have that problem anymore and my car idles beautifully.
- Timing – After driving a bit, I want to go back and time it once again. And while at it, sync the carbs since I’ve done all this work on it.
These are the things I did to my engine based on what I was experiencing. Since your distro has had some issues with it, start there and see what that does for you after you re-time it. Maybe replacing a leaky cap as well. Check to see if you’re getting spark on each plug. Post your findings as I’m sure others will chime in. Good luck and don’t be discouraged, it’s a learning process and you’ve done a lot with your truck.
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MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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dc
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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| Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 4:53 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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| MonT3 wrote: |
| dc wrote: |
| MonT3 wrote: |
| Beautiful work on that panel backend. The whole package is nicely done dc. Congrats on your accomplishment. What's next? |
Thanks
Next?
Idle and rough running has gone down hill... now it won't even hold an idle Started investigating: Pulled the cap and it looked like water got in the distributor-- rust on the rotor and points not opening correctly-- also had a cracked/non sealing plug on one of the carb vacuum ports. Replaced the vacuum plug- cleaned the rust off the rotor (didn't have a replacement) adjusted the point gap... tried it out -- not better
Hope I didn't damage anything - seems to be pump gas fine and turns over fine - but backfires and won't idle now
Ordered a new rotor and cap and going to ditch points for electronic ignition.
Any ideas?
In the meantime, Tom (my mechanic friend) is rebuilding a nice set of stock Solex carbs to replace the Webers. Fingers crossed! |
I had some similar issues after finding the cracked manifold. After replacing that piece and putting the carb back on, I was still experiencing very sluggish behavior and bad idling. I did the following:
- Replaced all the plugs and wires – I learned my #2 wasn’t firing so after getting the wires in place, that went away. But the tach spikes were still there. With the recommendation of a buddy, I pulled the plugs, gapped the new ones and slipped them in. Huge difference.
- Rebuilt both carbs – I initially rebuilt one due to the air mix screw. I later found the same issue was taking place on the other side. In rebuilding the carbs, I took the time to pull all the pieces off, clean them thoroughly and re-assembly them with different throttle body and linkage. I noticed on the of the linkages had a weird motion to it when whole thing was put together and I was trying to sync the carbs that I pulled the carb and swapped out the throttle body and linkage once again and put it all together
- Coil – Since I replaced everything from the plugs to the wires, I replaced the coil as well.
- Distro – I had an electronic ignition set up in my 205G before I was having all these issues. As part of the troubleshooting at that time, I pulled that distro and put in my spare 009 with points and haven’t swapped it out as the car settled down with the idling. Then there was this fuel pressure thing going on.
- Fuel pump rod mod - After running the car for a while and shutting her down, I’d pull the cover off and have a look for leaks, .etc and I could hear what sounded to me like the carb were pushing fuel into the manifold and such. I took a look and confirmed it to was the case. I put a gauge on the fuel line and got a 4.5lbs reading which as I understand it is the norm but still, dumping that much fuel until the pressure subsided was not a good thing for the engine, so after some more discussion, I pulled the Brazilian pump and pulled out the rod and ground off a fraction of an inch off (I have the specs on my phone but my phones not with me at the moment). I reduced the fuel pressure down to 2lbs. I don’t have that problem anymore and my car idles beautifully.
- Timing – After driving a bit, I want to go back and time it once again. And while at it, sync the carbs since I’ve done all this work on it.
These are the things I did to my engine based on what I was experiencing. Since your distro has had some issues with it, start there and see what that does for you after you re-time it. Maybe replacing a leaky cap as well. Check to see if you’re getting spark on each plug. Post your findings as I’m sure others will chime in. Good luck and don’t be discouraged, it’s a learning process and you’ve done a lot with your truck. |
OK!
You gave me a lot to consider:
Here's what I've found after running some checks--- careful to double check before replacing parts. Some things I wanted to change anyway (perhaps not a great time to change out parts):
New electronic ignition for the 019 - new cap - new rotor
Static time (I know - gotta use a strobe BUT It won't start at all)
Check fuel pump-- working fine
Tune Webers- engine not running - checked idle speed screws and mixture screws
Check coil - seems fine but installed a new one
12.3 volts at the switch (under dash) BUT it drops to 10.3 V when the starter is engaged
So it turns over fine but won't start with only 10.3 to the coil - is it a bad ignition switch or Voltage regulator or something else?  
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 5:19 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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| dc wrote: |
| MonT3 wrote: |
| dc wrote: |
| MonT3 wrote: |
| Beautiful work on that panel backend. The whole package is nicely done dc. Congrats on your accomplishment. What's next? |
Thanks
Next?
Idle and rough running has gone down hill... now it won't even hold an idle Started investigating: Pulled the cap and it looked like water got in the distributor-- rust on the rotor and points not opening correctly-- also had a cracked/non sealing plug on one of the carb vacuum ports. Replaced the vacuum plug- cleaned the rust off the rotor (didn't have a replacement) adjusted the point gap... tried it out -- not better
Hope I didn't damage anything - seems to be pump gas fine and turns over fine - but backfires and won't idle now
Ordered a new rotor and cap and going to ditch points for electronic ignition.
Any ideas?
In the meantime, Tom (my mechanic friend) is rebuilding a nice set of stock Solex carbs to replace the Webers. Fingers crossed! |
I had some similar issues after finding the cracked manifold. After replacing that piece and putting the carb back on, I was still experiencing very sluggish behavior and bad idling. I did the following:
- Replaced all the plugs and wires – I learned my #2 wasn’t firing so after getting the wires in place, that went away. But the tach spikes were still there. With the recommendation of a buddy, I pulled the plugs, gapped the new ones and slipped them in. Huge difference.
- Rebuilt both carbs – I initially rebuilt one due to the air mix screw. I later found the same issue was taking place on the other side. In rebuilding the carbs, I took the time to pull all the pieces off, clean them thoroughly and re-assembly them with different throttle body and linkage. I noticed on the of the linkages had a weird motion to it when whole thing was put together and I was trying to sync the carbs that I pulled the carb and swapped out the throttle body and linkage once again and put it all together
- Coil – Since I replaced everything from the plugs to the wires, I replaced the coil as well.
- Distro – I had an electronic ignition set up in my 205G before I was having all these issues. As part of the troubleshooting at that time, I pulled that distro and put in my spare 009 with points and haven’t swapped it out as the car settled down with the idling. Then there was this fuel pressure thing going on.
- Fuel pump rod mod - After running the car for a while and shutting her down, I’d pull the cover off and have a look for leaks, .etc and I could hear what sounded to me like the carb were pushing fuel into the manifold and such. I took a look and confirmed it to was the case. I put a gauge on the fuel line and got a 4.5lbs reading which as I understand it is the norm but still, dumping that much fuel until the pressure subsided was not a good thing for the engine, so after some more discussion, I pulled the Brazilian pump and pulled out the rod and ground off a fraction of an inch off (I have the specs on my phone but my phones not with me at the moment). I reduced the fuel pressure down to 2lbs. I don’t have that problem anymore and my car idles beautifully.
- Timing – After driving a bit, I want to go back and time it once again. And while at it, sync the carbs since I’ve done all this work on it.
These are the things I did to my engine based on what I was experiencing. Since your distro has had some issues with it, start there and see what that does for you after you re-time it. Maybe replacing a leaky cap as well. Check to see if you’re getting spark on each plug. Post your findings as I’m sure others will chime in. Good luck and don’t be discouraged, it’s a learning process and you’ve done a lot with your truck. |
OK!
You gave me a lot to consider:
Here's what I've found after running some checks--- careful to double check before replacing parts. Some things I wanted to change anyway (perhaps not a great time to change out parts):
New electronic ignition for the 019 - new cap - new rotor
Static time (I know - gotta use a strobe BUT It won't start at all)
Check fuel pump-- working fine
Tune Webers- engine not running - checked idle speed screws and mixture screws
Check coil - seems fine but installed a new one
12.3 volts at the switch (under dash) BUT it drops to 10.3 V when the starter is engaged
So it turns over fine but won't start with only 10.3 to the coil - is it a bad ignition switch or Voltage regulator or something else? |
Stupid questions on my behalf which I’m sure you already have done. Did you pull the distro to replace the ignition and put it back in? Is the distro reset to TDC on#1 - statically? Spark plug cables ran accordingly (had to ask)? Coil wiring ran accordingly? Not sure what’s going on with the loss in voltage when you turn it over as I’ve not experienced piece.
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MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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dc
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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| Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 6:06 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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No - Did not pull distributor - rotor is not hitting cap/all looks good
Yes - TDC on #1 - rotor points to notch on the rim when pulley is at TDC -
Yes - 1,4,3,2 clockwise - BUT I did have to check that a couple of times- got mixed up when I changed caps
Yes- coil wires as per instructions for the HotSpark instructions - red to positive and black to negative.... should the body of the distributor itself be grounded? Hmmm
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MonT3
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Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 8:21 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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| dc wrote: |
No - Did not pull distributor - rotor is not hitting cap/all looks good
Yes - TDC on #1 - rotor points to notch on the rim when pulley is at TDC -
Yes - 1,4,3,2 clockwise - BUT I did have to check that a couple of times- got mixed up when I changed caps
Yes- coil wires as per instructions for the HotSpark instructions - red to positive and black to negative.... should the body of the distributor itself be grounded? Hmmm |
I pulled my 67 205G from a parts drawer as it has a HotSpark in it.
Notice the ground wire on the inside attached to the inner wall. Does your distro have a ground on the inside prior to installing your HotSpark?
I have read where some distros don't line up to the mark. If you statically line things up, I think you'd be good. But, if your distro is set with the advance taken into consideration, it may not line up with that mark. I had to play with my distro, moving it slightly until I began getting signs of life from the engine until I was able to get it running enough to start working on getting the timing set properly. I will admit I struggle in that process. I hope this info helps and am surprised others haven't chimed in with some ideas on what might be going on. Feel I'm somewhat not helping you enough.
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MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
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dc
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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| Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:43 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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Any help is good help! I will investigate that wire for grounding... Not sure where the distributor was alignment-wise before I started messing with it.
What about that 10.3 Volt reading at the switch - to the coil--- some research says lower than 11 may not fire I have an extra bug switch I may try tomorrow.
Tom, my mechanic, said he would make a house call on Sunday if I can't figure it out AND he should have my Solex re-builds ready November 5
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Clatter
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Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 6:52 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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Any chance you could post a few pics of the whole car?
Now that it's black, I'd love to see the whole thing.
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Bus Motor Build
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dc
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Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2016 8:36 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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| Clatter wrote: |
Any chance you could post a few pics of the whole car?
Now that it's black, I'd love to see the whole thing. |
More in my Galllery
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Clatter
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| Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 8:23 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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Nice.
Wood bed looks really good with the black..
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MonT3
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dc
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Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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| Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 9:37 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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| MonT3 wrote: |
| Hey dc, any update with what you have going on with your starting issue? |
Still not running. Waiting on plug wires and plugs - no one local had them 
My mechanic confirmed no spark to #4 and a weak spark to #2...
Looks like we had a good spark at the coil and through the cap.
Old plugs look black/carbon coated and one was wet with oil.
in the meantime-
Put the hoop and canvas back on it.
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dc
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| Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 6:34 pm Post subject: Re: Type 3 Truck - the "other" vw |
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Got the new plugs and wires - got to run after some problem solving,
Timed it to 30 degrees at 3K - runs erratically/poorly and lacks power
Oh well... gonna wait for Tom to dial it all in when the new carbs are installed
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68notch
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