Toe-in adjustment using outside wheel rims

[catahoula lou]

Decided to check/adjust the toe-in on my 1959 ragtop bug. Muir and others say to use inside rims of wheels at 3/9 O'clock positions to set the ~1/8" toe-in. Problem is the body/tunnel get in the way to measure at these positions.

I use the outer rims of my wheels instead. Using the following method:

First, I verify that my concrete floor is level between the front wheels using a 4-foot level.

Next, I create a measuring tool using a 2-foot level, a steel scale, and a welder's vise grip, setting the scale at the same height as the center of the dust cap (same as 3/9 O'clock positions):

I set the tool with the scale perpendicular to the wheel rim:

The flat base of the level lets it stand vertical to the wheel:

I then scoot the tool until it contacts the rim and the bubble indicates that the level is vertical WRT the rim:

I made a black mark on concrete floor using a Sharpie, for initial measurements, at 3/9 O'clock on both front wheels. I put arrows so that I line up my measuring tape in exactly the same position each time I take measurements:

I also put a piece of marked tape on the RHS tie-rod (sorry, this shows after I'm done) so that I can count number of rotations:

Here are the black marks on LHS. I continuously re-took measurements on LHS and used these marks to verify accuracy by observing no change in the markings, given that I was adjusting the RHS tie-rod (they did not change):

I then took my measurements between the front/rear arrows and do the math. My initial reading showed I had ~7/8" toe-in, accounting for the front wheels squealing on my short test runs. Initially, did 3 turns on my RHS tie-rod using the marked tape, used red Sharpie marks this time, and checked measurements again, which indicated that I had gone too far and now had toe-out. Turned tie-rod back 1/2 turn or so, marked with blue Sharpie this time, and was very close. Erased my colored markings, leaving the original black markings and made final adjustment, making new blue marks again. This time I had ~1/8" toe-in. Verified after rolling car back/forth ~2 feet and re-taking measurements. Squealing of front tires did not occur on subsequent test run.

Here are the initial black marks and final blue marks on the RHS:

As with doing the inner rims of the wheels, you must assume that both wheels are reasonably straight and do not have major defects.

Geometry is cool...

I apologize in advance if someone else had already posted the same/similar procedure.

Best,
Thom
_________________
1 great wife
2 Catahoula Leopard Dogs (Mahogany Star and Spartan) - RIP Lucy, Braveheart, & Dusty!
1 1959 mango green Ragtop Bug (the "Mango")
1 1958 pantina red Lowlight Ghia (the "Chili Pepper")

Still looking for:
(1) My Dad's 1955 356 (he raced it amateur-class at Riverside and other courses during 1950s),
(2) My parent's black 1955 hardtop bug (CA license plate FWC 201 or FWG 201), and
(3) My parent's agave green 1957 ragtop bug (CA license plate LFK 734).

[KTPhil]

As long as angular errors and bubble level errors do not stack up unfavorably, and as long as your rims are not bent (many are), this should work.

I bet they made noise with 7/8" toe-in!

[All_talk]

I use a similar procedure for both toe and camber (ball Joint car), but I roll the car back so the wheels have turned 180 degrees and measure again. This compensates for bent wheels, I tweak the setting until the average of the two positions is at the spec.

Gary

[catahoula lou]

Yeah, they squealed like a pair of piglets. Given that I did the post non-squealing test drive, I'll re-check/verify toe-in in the next couple of days and report back...

Best,
Thom
_________________
1 great wife
2 Catahoula Leopard Dogs (Mahogany Star and Spartan) - RIP Lucy, Braveheart, & Dusty!
1 1959 mango green Ragtop Bug (the "Mango")
1 1958 pantina red Lowlight Ghia (the "Chili Pepper")

Still looking for:
(1) My Dad's 1955 356 (he raced it amateur-class at Riverside and other courses during 1950s),
(2) My parent's black 1955 hardtop bug (CA license plate FWC 201 or FWG 201), and
(3) My parent's agave green 1957 ragtop bug (CA license plate LFK 734).

[catahoula lou]

Per AllTalk's procedure, I rechecked my toe-in yesterday, after having gone around the block the other day after adjusting my toe-in to ~1/8" using my setup.

Resulted in ~3/16" toe-in, which is very close to 1/8" toe-in. So, it looks good.

Checked the toe-in on my lowlight Ghia yesterday as well, which actually has a toe-out (not toe-in) of ~4/8". Tires don't squeal like my ragtop's did and handles well on the mountain roads where I live.

However, I do plan to adjust to 1/8" toe-in this weekend.

Best,
Thom
_________________
1 great wife
2 Catahoula Leopard Dogs (Mahogany Star and Spartan) - RIP Lucy, Braveheart, & Dusty!
1 1959 mango green Ragtop Bug (the "Mango")
1 1958 pantina red Lowlight Ghia (the "Chili Pepper")

Still looking for:
(1) My Dad's 1955 356 (he raced it amateur-class at Riverside and other courses during 1950s),
(2) My parent's black 1955 hardtop bug (CA license plate FWC 201 or FWG 201), and
(3) My parent's agave green 1957 ragtop bug (CA license plate LFK 734).

[catahoula lou]

Got the toe-in on my lowlight Ghia done this weekend. Good to go with both AC VWs.

Best,
Thom
_________________
1 great wife
2 Catahoula Leopard Dogs (Mahogany Star and Spartan) - RIP Lucy, Braveheart, & Dusty!
1 1959 mango green Ragtop Bug (the "Mango")
1 1958 pantina red Lowlight Ghia (the "Chili Pepper")

Still looking for:
(1) My Dad's 1955 356 (he raced it amateur-class at Riverside and other courses during 1950s),
(2) My parent's black 1955 hardtop bug (CA license plate FWC 201 or FWG 201), and
(3) My parent's agave green 1957 ragtop bug (CA license plate LFK 734).