USC all-metal vrs. Evercoat's Metal to Metal

[marklaken]

a couple questions:

has anyone used both products and have a preference?...i am leaning towards evercoat but have no reason for this (other brand name loyalty)

do these metal based fillers absorb moisture (like polyseter based fillers)and need to be sealed shortly after application is completed?...

is a sand blasted surface good enough surface prep before application of these fillers?

as always, thanks for the guidance...mark
_________________
Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles

'65 rear left beetle fender

15" Bus Wheels in fair condition

Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO

[Ipaintem]

My question is , why do you need these. If you have holes these will still be a patch at best. If your metal is good and you just need to fill the low places just use regular filler.

[marklaken]

the reason i was wondering is because i have several places i need to fill that are long narrow strips (less than .5" wide) and thought that these products would be stronger...they are supposed to be the filler equivalant of leading...

i am not bridging any holes, just cleaning up the plug welded seams on the flanges of my nose panel replacement...these areas also collect alot of moisture (especially at the nose/window sills junction)...a thrid benefit would be if i didn't need to worry about getting the filler shot with a high build eurathane filler right away (then i could do all my high build at on time when i get to that point (about a month down the road)...

i was also conteplating just shooting several coats of high build primer and sanding down, but in the low spots i need to build up about a 1/8th to 1/16th an inch...hence the thought to use a metal based filler...
_________________
Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles

'65 rear left beetle fender

15" Bus Wheels in fair condition

Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO

[Ipaintem]

With all do respect, I think that is overkill. That stuff is expensive! The best way I have found (and i do this everyday) is to just grind your welds smooth and just use regular body filler on the outside.
On the inside grind these down to somewhat smooth or smoother if your anal, and cover the inside welds with a 2 part seam sealer. SEM, 3M, Fusor, Duramix ect...

If you use the metal filler on the outside and do not cover the inside welds, it will rust again from the inside out. Once you prime the filler on the outside with a ureathane primer water will never reach the metal from the outside.

This is the way I did my Ghia and so far so good!!
Good luck!!!
Jonathan

[bmtx]

I agree with Ipaintem. It does sound a bit overkill. The direstions he gave are about the standard in any bodyshop.

[marklaken]

thanks....just a side question...what situation would warrent the use of a metal based filler?
_________________
Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles

'65 rear left beetle fender

15" Bus Wheels in fair condition

Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO

[Ipaintem]

If perhaps you had a 1/4" hole and absolutly no possible way to get to the back of the panel then I would use that .

[Bklyn63]

if your replacing a panel spot weld grind your welds and then use a fiberglass filler. its water proof and will hold VERY storng, follow with some glazing putty.

Evercoat is bar none the best stuff I ever used. beats USC's stuff 10 to 1.

I used a pink icing glaze then used a glazing putty evercoat made and I couldnt believe how smooth this stuff went on.

the USC stuf was just plain crap.