Ospho Question

[saltfactor]

Hello All. I've been making some moderate progress on my 914 race-car project lately. I have all rear quarters, doors and fenders stripped to bare metal using "aircraft" paint stripper (don't get that shiat on 'ya!) and pressure washed clean. So now I have the obligatory "flash" surface rust, as well as whatever existing old surface rust that was hiding under the old paint. So my question is, if I apply OSPHO and let it cure (or react or whatever) and then go over the panels with my DA to knock off the surface and leave the inert converted material in the pits and lows will that be a suitable substrate to apply "Masterseries" or epoxy primer over? Oh yea, I'm going to do some light filler work directly over the OSHO treated panels as well, then lock it down with either the "Masterseries or epoxy primer. Thanks for any input or advice. Regards, -K-
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'74 Westy
'60 11 Window Standard Microbus
'65 Standard Beetle
'61 Double-Door Panel (Sold)
'78 Standard Transporter (Sold)
'66 Panel (Sold)
'70 Fasty (Sold)
'70 Standard Transporter (Sold)
'68 Type 3 Fastback (Sold)
'69 Bus (On tour somewhere)
'70 Fastback (Sold)
'59 NSU Prinz!!! (On a racetrack someday in my dreams)
'66 Buick Wildcat (Sold)

"Come to kindly terms with your Ass for it bears you" - J. Muir

[saltfactor]

Damn. You mean out of the 17 people who read this post none had/have any constructive input? Later, -K-
_________________
'74 Westy
'60 11 Window Standard Microbus
'65 Standard Beetle
'61 Double-Door Panel (Sold)
'78 Standard Transporter (Sold)
'66 Panel (Sold)
'70 Fasty (Sold)
'70 Standard Transporter (Sold)
'68 Type 3 Fastback (Sold)
'69 Bus (On tour somewhere)
'70 Fastback (Sold)
'59 NSU Prinz!!! (On a racetrack someday in my dreams)
'66 Buick Wildcat (Sold)

"Come to kindly terms with your Ass for it bears you" - J. Muir

[doubledd]

I've used Ospho before but not on a car. It works very well. I've heard of Picklex that does same thing. My car is in body shop and they're putting a rust inhibitor on I never heard of and they say it's the best. somebody needs to give you help. One idea is to ask the automotive paint store what to use. Get good info from them I'm sure. bye for now.
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VW's Are Like a Box Chocolates. You never know what your gonna git.

[satchmo]

I think you're on the right track. The Ospho jug says it's a primer. I would still use an etching primer over it if there is any bare metal there, as well as some treated rust spots.

I have generally used the Ospho on rusty areas that I couldn't grind it all away, then washed the area liberally with water or used baking soda to neutralize the Ospho. After that, you can use filler like Metal to Metal if there are any pits or surface irregularities, then prime or coat with whatever you like.

Good Luck, Tim

[wheel607]

I have done many award winning cars and this is what works for me: First , grind away any surface rust. Second, use Ospho. Third, when you are ready to prime and only when you are ready to prime, use wire cup brush and DA or similar...what stays in the pores is ok to stay. Fourth, apply your Eastwood Metal to Metal. Fifth and final after the filler is set to proper depth, prime with your epoxy or etching primer

[saltfactor]

Hey, and thanks for the replies. I appreciate the feedback. I actually sandblasted most of the existing surface rust and then did two applications of Ospho. I knocked off the cured and crusty residue with my random orbit sander and the wiped the surface down with acetone. After I had it all prepped out, I decided to shoot it with "Masterseries" (which I have used before with good results) to fully isolate my substrate from the atmosphere. I'll do my filler work (as minimal an application as is necessary of course) over the "primed" M-series and then lock everything down with epoxy primer before final prep and a simple application of single stage catylized acrylic enamel or similar. Thanks again. Regards, -K-
_________________
'74 Westy
'60 11 Window Standard Microbus
'65 Standard Beetle
'61 Double-Door Panel (Sold)
'78 Standard Transporter (Sold)
'66 Panel (Sold)
'70 Fasty (Sold)
'70 Standard Transporter (Sold)
'68 Type 3 Fastback (Sold)
'69 Bus (On tour somewhere)
'70 Fastback (Sold)
'59 NSU Prinz!!! (On a racetrack someday in my dreams)
'66 Buick Wildcat (Sold)

"Come to kindly terms with your Ass for it bears you" - J. Muir

[Bill E.]

The one thing I dont like about the Ospho is the residue. It is very poor for adhesion and must be removed and what about the places you cant get to like in seams. Wont this stuff continue to 'etch' if not removed??

I use the KleenStrip rust converter. It has a built in vinal acrylic copolymer primmer to seal the substrate. It is realy to hard to sand.

I will even leave the metal out in the moisture of a few days or a week to get some rust on the shinny metal so the acid will have somethin to grab to. It doesnt like to stick to shinny metal, but a little surface rust haze and it sticks good.

After this has dried I sand and apply the standard fillers/primers/top coats..

I have had the alignment shop say this up better on the tie rods and suspension than some powder coated cars they have done.
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cars come and go, VW's live and breathe!