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help me fix my top frame- pictures
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BNMike
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lettuce wrote:
adjusted the bottom windshield latches? Good latch rubber?


Well....that I don't know. I know the latches have socket head cap screws, and I'm sure that ain't original issue Smile It's been so long since I had my new '73, I don't remember what the rubber parts are supposed to look like.

BNMike
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Lettuce
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the latches are supposed to have those, you loosen them and slide the latch.. in your case, up. Wink I asked about the rubber because if its old and rotten the latches wont hold tight.
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BNMike
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lettuce wrote:
the latches are supposed to have those, you loosen them and slide the latch.. in your case, up. Wink I asked about the rubber because if its old and rotten the latches wont hold tight.


Ahhh Sooo....The rubber is rubber in name only Shocked It's as hard as a rock, and squished down. Do any of the usual suspects carry replacements? It looks like a set of new rubber on the windshile top and bottom, and on the lip that is on the body is in order. Thanks for the info.

BNMike
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yellow73kubel
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this same problem, caused by the top stretching and shrinking.

My solution was to draw a picture of the trapezoid formed by the door tops, windshield frame, top bow, and rear angle bow and compare it to how it should be (60* windshield angle). From there, I figured out that the bend on the very top hoop had to be bent up and back about 8* (IIRC). This pulled the bow above the windows into a roughly straight line. I used a long tube with a hook welded to it as leverage for bending the tubes into place. Might be something to consider (both lettuce and BNMike).

The straight windshield frame is a nice plus for both of you. Mine has a bend just above the hinge that I need to deal with at some point.
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Lettuce
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so you did this? I'll have to try it, it might just be it

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yellow73kubel
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that is what I did.

I went out to the garage to snap a few pictures of how it is now, but there isn't much to see... It seems like the pieces may have bent back to their previous shape a little. The difference is that the gap is more consistent overall. The bows running front to back are now pretty much straight at the joint, although they are bent between the joints. The angles I measured were 0* at the door tops, 60* at the windshield, and ~1* at the frame above the windows (should be zero).

You will probably notice that the factory top frames weren't even jigged straight and true. If you want to make it perfect, you have a lot of spot weld drilling and re-doing ahead of you. I may consider this at some point on the worst spots..

By the way, if you haven't done so yet, I'd go ahead and swap out to a Killer Products bolt kit. It is ~$50 well spent, since you can remove pieces at will for reshaping and correcting.
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emersonbiggins
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yellow73kubel wrote:


You will probably notice that the factory top frames weren't even jigged straight and true. If you want to make it perfect, you have a lot of spot weld drilling and re-doing ahead of you. I may consider this at some point on the worst spots..


I cut and welded my top trying to fix this problem. I had 2 sets of windows that made the same top fit 2 different ways. I took about an inch out of both sides so that my windows would fit then bought new windows and everything was screwed up again. Now I have 2 tops. The first one got so hacked up and I was never satisfied with the fit that I bought a brand new one. Now I have just learned to be content. The new top fixed a lot of the problem.

I even heated up the flat metal by the body pivot pin to try and align the top to the windows.
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BNMike
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got one of K-mann's refinished top frames, with the Killer bolt kit. When he gets his re-inforcing pieces done, I'll get them too. In the meantime, I see that TTS has the rubber bumpers for the windshield latches. I need to get a couple other things from them, so I'll get the bumpers too.

BNMike
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EDragnDean
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lettuce wrote:
so you did this? I'll have to try it, it might just be it

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have the same window issue, after welding up the broken header and straightening the rails.

As I look at the picture above, and try and understand the transition, it occurs to me that the bend is the opposite. Down instead of up. Up pulls the straight metal rod back, which requires more tension forward to make the connection to the front rail. Thus pulling the entire hoop forward extending more forward pressure on the window frame.

Thoughts before I try and find a persuasive method of bending the hoop?
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