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glutenfree
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Joined: July 06, 2016
Posts: 238
Location: PDX
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 Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 11:07 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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| trythis wrote: |
| I can't imagine doing this with a stick welder, that's determination. |
gas-less mig (lincoln) and not much for output adjustment, arrgh!
| Donnie strickland wrote: |
This picture in particular has me wondering...
Will that cooler get enough air flow? The transition seems quite abrupt for the air as it passes through the cooler. The lower half of the cooler will have air flowing, but I get the impression the upper half of the fins will tend to stagnate and retain heat.
It's a good idea, but will it cool better than stock? |
I made sure there was ample room for the airflow to reach the upper portion of the cooler much like the factory tin was prior to modding. I will re-attempt to get a good picture later today showing the inside of the tin using my webcam or another cam, my phone was too big. I can place my fingers between the upper portion of the cooler and the tin with plenty room to spare.
As long as I replace the deflector/block plates and ensure a positive seal between the cooler and tin, it should cool better than a stock T3 cooler since the air will have no choice but to flow where it can go. I have been thinking about adding a couple extra deflector plates to direct the airflow in a couple areas.
Had I not reworked the tins, this might have been an issue considering how close the tin was to the most upper row on the front of the cooler.
edit:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28005
| BerT3 wrote: |
if you look close you can see my temperature sender in the oil tube return pipe
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I just found this pic while browsing that thread...exactly what I want to do with that return tube port on my engine.
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 3:09 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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Had to clean the layer of surface rust off my lathe before I replace the broken part, not sure of the name but it is what drives the cutting head towards the tail-stock (auto-feed maybe)...I accidentally left it on as I walked out of the room and it drove itself into the tail-stock and stripped the gear so it won't auto-feed until I replace that part
This was originally a Harbor Freight 7x10" mini lathe but I upgraded it to a 7x16 (they claim it is actually 8" longer than the 7x10) using a kit found here www.littlemachineshop.com and added a QCTP (quick change tool post) plus a few other goodies for doing various lathe work.
I busted this out so I can turn down a couple studs for use with the FRD linkage ball bearing upgrade kit I designed & 3D printed. I may need to modify the head-stock jaws to allow clearance since the studs I am turning down are only 40mm in length total. In hindsight, if I were to do this again (if I offer kits?) I will start with longer studs and cut them down after turning to the correct diameter.
rusty!
cleaned up!
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 12:21 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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Off to bed but I wanted to post an update of what I accomplished the last few days...mostly mocking but did make some real progress. I am super happy with how the 3/4 cooler tin is right now (even before filling)
I am planning to plumb the oil system with 8AN fittings and braided hose...any suggestions on which degree fittings to use on the supply/return at the cover/case?
In the next day or two I will be threading my Dellorto FRDs fuel inlets and also extracting a broken stud and fixing/chasing threads on the fan housing front piece as well...might have to use a thread insert on one or more of the pulley shroud stud holes.
Thanks for viewing and feel free to share any tips/advice. Cheers!
mocking the rear fan housing and upper cylinder tins
needs a bit more tweaking to fit the fan housing better
not much room for the oil supply/return fittings/lines
single rib/webbing removed from lower portion of the fan housing back piece to clear the GB pump cover & mustache bar. I also need to source skinny/lo-pro nuts for the cover..the other nuts were preventing the fan housing back from seating properly
modding the mustache bar
I may need to make more room but I will wait until I get my hose and fittings (8AN fittings & braided hose)
3/4 cylinder tin cooling deflector/block off plates...still need to grind smooth the welds, tack a few plates then blast, fill and powder for final assembly
the main deflector plate..,see the lip that directs the air towards the upper portion of the cooler? There is approx. an inch of space between the cooler and the back side of this deflector plate
sanded smooth the casting marks from the pulley
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Clatter
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:25 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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Nice Work.
FWIW, I had good luck using Evercoat Metal-2-Metal as filler under powder coat.
Make sure to polish the fins on that fan to a mirror shine! 
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:49 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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| Clatter wrote: |
Nice Work.
FWIW, I had good luck using Evercoat Metal-2-Metal as filler under powder coat.
Make sure to polish the fins on that fan to a mirror shine! |
Thanks man! I think I will give that Evercoat M2M a try since it will save me $20+ and every penny saved counts.
I got one of my Xmas presents early (cash) so I was able to order another FRD rebuild kit from Italy (alfa1750 ebay seller) & most of my oil system parts just now...I went with 8AN hose/fittings and ordered everything but the hose as I am still contemplating where to mount the filter(so not sure on hose length yet), most likely I will use the mustache bar...I'll be running heater boxes, so I must take that into consideration.
I will be blasting the crank pulley/fan with the fan housing this coming week, waiting on my buddy to finish setting up his compressor and blasting cabinet. I have plans to powder the crank pulley/fan (all but the outer lip) so the coating doesn't chip/flake if/when I decide to turn the engine over using said pulley & a screwdriver.
Today I will be designing a standard replacement crankshaft pulley "cap" and a custom version (w/ VW logo or maybe T3?) for 3D printing http://www.vwispwest.com/311105383.html Depending how froggy I feel...I may attempt tapping my Dellorto FRD fuel inlet ports and will most likely make a couple practice threads in some aluminum rod stock I have laying around for various projects. If I decide on the oil filter location (mustache bar), I will drill/tap the holes so all that is left to do with the mustache bar is to provide ample clearance for the full-flow supply/return fittings/line.
Thanks for viewing and I will post more updates as they come!
edit: My mom rocks! She just paid for the last of my parts orders...fuel system components (fittings, adapters & hose), oil cooler sealing foam & 8AN hose for oil supply/return lines. Other than the metal filler and a handful of nuts/bolts/washers I should have everything needed to complete my build. STOKED! Thanks again mom!
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W1K1
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:46 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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| Quote: |
| I had good luck using Evercoat Metal-2-Metal as filler under powder coat. |
I use JB weld for patching under powder coat. I've had the metal 2 metal shrink in the oven  . Either way, the powder will have to get hot flocked if the filler is thick enough. The static charge doesn't attract the powder to the filler.
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1965 squareback 1500E
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:09 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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| W1K1 wrote: |
| Quote: |
| I had good luck using Evercoat Metal-2-Metal as filler under powder coat. |
I use JB weld for patching under powder coat. I've had the metal 2 metal shrink in the oven . Either way, the powder will have to get hot flocked if the filler is thick enough. The static charge doesn't attract the powder to the filler. |
Agreed. I tend to pre-heat most pieces prior to coating for faster cures and more even coverage. I would imagine fillers with metal flake would perform better than those without so long as they meet the heat requirements for oven curing at PC temps (375-425 range on avg) as they are conductive (some more than others) unlike non-metal fillers.
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KTPhil 
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| Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:17 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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| You probably want to have the pulley dynamically balanced after taking off material. |
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 8:36 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| You probably want to have the pulley dynamically balanced after taking off material. |
I was thinking the same thing so after you posted this morning I designed and printed a set of adapters so I could balance the pulley very much like you would a bicycle/motorcycle wheel or airplane propeller. Check out the video I just uploaded...
Link
I was able to extract the broken stud in my fan housing and while I was at it I decided to bust out my metric tap & die set and chased the threads on the fan housing rear piece (will do the front tomorrow).
Since there were 2 thread holes that needed repairing beyond just chasing the hole with a tap I decided the threaded inserts that arrived a few days ago can be put to work after I drill and tap the holes to the correct size (8.6mm drill hole and M10x1.5 tap). Due to how soft the magnesium alloy housing is, this process went by pretty quick and I was smiling wide before long!
broken stud extracting
chasing threads (M6x1)
Thread repair using threaded inserts
I forgot the pic after I drilled the hole out to 8.6mm using a letter Q drill bit
tapping to M10x1.5
fully inserted but not flush (its dremel time!)
ground flush with dremel
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glutenfree
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Bobnotch
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| Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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| glutenfree wrote: |
So i need to overcome this hurdle ASAP...since my oil line adapters/fittings started to arrive yesterday. I started a thread over in the engines section of the forums.
Hoping someone here has tackled this before...
How to chase threads w/o splitting case? (full flow inlet)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=667906 |
I've always used grease and a vacuum cleaner when tapping threads into oil passages/heads/blind holes. The grease holds most of the chips, and the vacuum gets the rest.
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| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Clatter
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| Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2016 7:04 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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You can also pressurize with air from another hole like the oil sender..
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 10:19 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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Thanks for the words of encouragement guys...I was able to fix the threads quite easily, just had to take my time with the process. The rest of my fuel & oil system fittings arrived this week so I was able to do a bit more mocking/fitment of the mustache bar & fan housing rear piece.
The oil supply fittings (on the pump cover) are giving me clearance issues atm. Unless I extend and/or change the angle the -8AN male fitting attaches, the mustache bar will need another chunk removed and I still need to throw some slim nuts on the pump cover since the standard M8 nuts are causing interference/clearance issues with the mustache bar & fan housing rear piece.
Since my fittings arrived, I decided to assemble my fuel pressure regulator and fittings/adapters & gauge. I still need to have my fan housing and crank pulley blasted and powder the last of my parts. The 3/4 cooler tin needs filled/smoothed and powdered as well.
I am planning to make a trip to my garage tomorrow and fix my powder oven and either remove a few parts from the engine in the fasty or just drop the engine...space is at a premium right now so not sure what my exact plan of attack is going to be.
Chasing threads on case @ oil return port w/o splitting case
Tools laid out for chasing threads w/o splitting case
stuffing the port with grease covered cotton ball
greased cotton ball stuffed in oil return port
applying grease to the 3/8 NPT tap
All greased and ready to chase threads (using 16mm 12pt socket on tap)
chasing threads (needed the ratchet to cut the last few turns)
grease working great at picking up the flakes/shavings
First bit of thread chasing
Removing the greased cotton ball from the oil return port after chasing the threads (first I swabbed the threads with a greased cotton swab to remove any metal shavings
Checking oil return port for leftover cotton ball particles
All cleaned up
Fitting adapters (next time I will wait for final fitment to use any thread sealant
Fuel pressure regulator fittings/adapters. I don't really like the big brass adapter but this is what I could afford on my limited budget(i did grind the corners on the adapter a bit)..I might craft a better looking adapter next spring/summer if/when I get bored. I may also need to craft a mount for this setup as it may be too heavy to mount on the front tin. We'll see!
Using -4AN fittings for the fuel system
VDO fuel pressure gauge (target pressure will be at 12 o'clock position when mounted for quick reading)
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 9:53 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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Started pulling parts from the engine in my fasty and will be pulling the engine before much longer so I can clean up the engine compartment and get it ready to stab the 1835 in there.
Too tired to remove the thermostat & housing while I was pulling parts but I did grab the front tin, the eyeglass tins and the other tins that sit below the intake manifold.
Also, I happened to press on the flaps in the fan housing and they felt spring loaded which gives an indication the thermostat is still working?
I will be posting up the fuel injection system onto the classifieds...hoping to sell it complete but will consider parting components.
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 10:20 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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My other carb rebuild kit arrived from Italy so I decided to do finish up the second carb rebuild before bed last night. While I was there I decided to thread the Dellorto fuel inlet ports with the 1/16 NPT tap I had waiting.
Today I will cut & shape the 3mm threaded rod to replace the accel pump rods that are on their last leg.
Also ordered a the last parts/supplies (still need to complete my mcmaster.com order as well) needed for my build. Pretty much nothing left but labor at this point (and waiting on parts deliveries.
The throttle lever arm need some fixing as well..the mounting hole is a tad worn and move when tightened down. Should be a simple fix, just a couple tack welds and then file the hole to fit and done. I will post more pics and updates soon.
Anyone know how to test if a thermostat is working?
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Donnie strickland
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| Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 10:45 am Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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Heat the thermostat with a hair dryer to see if it expands.
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 12:33 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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| Donnie strickland wrote: |
| Heat the thermostat with a hair dryer to see if it expands. |
Or a hot air gun perhaps?
was gonna ask another question but I found my answer with a quick search here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7634416
the answer was this "In other words if this thermostat /Bellows dies is full open flaps the default?"
I just found this info while researching rebuilding of thermostats...
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Thermostats.html#repairs
Source for new (and used) thermostats...
http://awesomepowdercoat.com/thermostat_new_used_rebuilt.html
I had an idea to craft an electronic servo thermostat for my VW since I can probably crank that out for under $40 using parts I have here and a servo with enough force to operate the cooling flaps/linkage.
Time to weigh my cooling flaps/rod/linkage to determine what size servo will be needed. The servo will need to work in conjunction with a spring loaded mechanism to keep the flaps open in case of failure.
Stay tuned for more details, drawings and workups for building this thermostat. I plan on using an Arduino for simplicity.
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:26 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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I was finally able to start blasting the last of my parts yesterday but I ran out of time...hoping to finish cleaning up those parts in the next few days. I am pretty close to having the inner fan housing and full-flow fittings just right to avoid any rubbing down the road. I have also been considering drilling my AN fittings for use with safety-wire (aviation style)
This morning I got sick of looking at my freshly rebuilt FRD's in the open and decided to design and print a set of dust caps/covers..
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 12:07 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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Finally back to work on this after dealing with the holidays and such.
I had a few tins and my fan housing blasted recently plus I finished hacking the mustache bar (rear mount) to fit around the GB-T3 pump cover and full-flow fittings and was able mock the fitment of the fan housing rear half along with the mustache bar. Fitment is looking excellent!
I still need to check fitment of the other tins in conjunction with the fan housing but shouldn't be any issues other than where the 3/4 tin is close to the new oil pressure sending port (type 4 cooler does not have built-in port).
My biggest hurdle now is mounting the Holley fuel pressure regulator to either the front tin or the 3/4 tin. I am now leaning towards welding a tab onto the 3/4 tin and devising a simple, clean looking way to mount the fuel press. reg. and keep a good geometry for the fuel lines.
freshly blasted front tin and fan housing rear half mocking (fuel press reg in pic) Also, you can see the 2 bolts holding the front tin in place...I ordered some M5 weld-nuts and welded them onto the underside of the cylinder tins so I no longer need to use a wrench/socket AND a driver to remove the front tin. (detail pics of weld-nuts coming soon)
new hardware!
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glutenfree
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| Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 7:38 pm Post subject: Re: 1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build) |
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No pics yet but I finally figured out my fuel pressure regulator mount...I have cut and shaped 2 pieces of tin and will be welding them onto the 3/4 cylinder tin behind the cooler area and near the front tin. Basically the fuel pressure regulator will be secured to the 2 tin brackets using hose clamps, 1 on either outlet side.
I need to drill/cut a hole into the front tin for the fuel line/hose fitting to pass through...I might attempt this tonight after I do a bit of filling on my fan housing and 3/4 tin with the hi-temp lab metal filler.
more pics and updates soon.
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