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Ignition switch burned out
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Juan
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 11:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Ignition switch burned out Reply with quote

Update and looking for feedback and help.
I just tested a replacement switch I bought (not aftermarket but a used part). Everything was looking good until I tried a couple of times to start the car. Upon second try turning the key and holding while the engine turned trying to start, smoke started coming out of the ignition. Basically trying to start it was burning right through it.
My friend has mentioned that I needed to install a relay since we converted to 12v but I'm just surprised at how fast things went wrong with this.
Any feedback is appreciated!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 4:46 am    Post subject: Re: Ignition switch burned out Reply with quote

Twelve volt circuits will use less current than a six volt equivalents so i don't thing this problem is because you changed to 12 volts.. I am begining to suspect there's something wrong with the starter solenoid if it draws enough current to burn out two switches.
Try a differnt starter motor.

Nicholas
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Angus Dowrie
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 6:09 am    Post subject: Re: Ignition switch burned out Reply with quote

You shouldn't need an ignition relay provided you haven't added significant electrical load by a big stereo or whatever. It may still be a good idea to add one down the track, but not likely to be the root cause of hour immediate problem. As Nicholas states above, by converting to 12v the current will reduce for the same power (by half, ignoring resistance changes, as P=VI and voltage has doubled)
Process of elimination. You've changed to 12v, but probably haven't changed the wiring. If it all worked before, the starter/solenoid is a change and therefore suspect. Wiring worked before and current is now reduced, so seems unlikely UNLESS a poor connection has been introduced in doing the 12v conversion. What else was changed? What stayed the same? Just work through it like that and you'll figure it out or go stark raving mad, perhaps both!

Post edit: I'm assuming here you have replaced your starter with a 12 v unit. Also if there are any "improvements" to the wiring layout over the years, take it back to standard if possible. The original wiring layout is by no means optimal, but it is functional and in my experience most changes owners introduce rarely are an improvement!
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Juan
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 4:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Ignition switch burned out Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback!
Some comments:
We did not replace the starter when we did the conversion. Car still has the 6v starter.
There was a starter relay in place when the car was still 6v. I removed it with another friend prior to the conversion as we were trying to figure out why the car wouldn't start (this is one of the things we are trying to figure out now: why was there a relay there in the first place). Which brings me to that other point: car was not running prior to conversion (I suspect the generator was the issue). This is what prompted the conversion (i.e. fixing to stay 6v or fixing and upgrading to 12v). Correct on the wiring: it was not changed when conversion was done.
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nextgen
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Ignition switch burned out Reply with quote

Went through so many Ign, switches that I put a button going from the pos side of the battery to the Starter solenoid. I always thought how stupid the design was to start the car. A thin wire goes all the way from the battery to the front of the car to the ign switch,then all the way back to the solenoid. The length of the wire and all the connections create resistance. That with age that corrodes the connections you looking for a problem. I use the ign key only to power two parallel 50 amp relays ( One is a back up ) that get power directly from the battery from heavy 14 ga wire. A terminal block feeds the other joke, the coil set up. Again, the wire that came from the battery and goes even further to the coil, which feeds the back up light and igniton. In my car it also feed the electric fuel pump and Jacobs Ignition system under my rear seat.. Now all the power comes from the two relays in the box shown. The coil has it own wire ,so does the fuel pump, backup lights.
Turn the key and start by reaching back to the ign button under the rear seat. The coil is clean.




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Juan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 2:09 am    Post subject: Re: Ignition switch burned out Reply with quote

This never-ending saga of bullsh*t continues:

We refurbished the original ignition switch with parts from a second and third switch, making sure everything was clean and in good shape. Tested it and it works. Before mounting it on the ignition hole and screwing it on, we made sure it didn't overheat or that the wires didn't get hot. All good. Car started. Great!
AND THEN...
We mount the switch on the hole and screw on. I put the car away for a few days. Finally get my seats back from upholsterer, get ready to go for a drive. Car doesn't start. Engine turns but switch does not seem to work. Dash lights don't come on in first position unless you play with the key a bit. Then you turn to try and start, the motor starts but the switch cannot keep the motor going and it turns back off.
Funny thing is, switch works perfectly fine when not actually properly mounted where it goes.

I have a second (aftermarket) and third (old part) switch, which also work fine while unmounted. Haven't tried them properly mounted but I suspect I'll get the same results (will try tomorrow).

wtf people.

I'M REALLY OVER THIS SHIT Brick wall
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