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busmania Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2006 Posts: 1934 Location: Here
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kman Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2005 Posts: 739 Location: Michigan
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andk5591 Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2005 Posts: 16757 Location: State College, PA
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Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:43 pm Post subject: Re: my next dumb question, which buffer/polisher? |
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Nice Millwaukee on amazon.....BUT really, unless you are doing a few cars, hard to justify the expense. But.....Have to tell you. Was getting ready to order the Millwaukee myself and after reading the reviews, I'm gonna pick a this one up Thursday. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-amp-heavy-duty-digital-variable-speed-polisher-69696.html Saving $150 is not chump change.... _________________ D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them... |
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74 Thing Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7389
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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 8:53 pm Post subject: Re: my next dumb question, which buffer/polisher? |
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Go over to autogeek.net and take a look at what they have to offer in rotarys vs dual actions.
What are your intentions? Are you wet or damp sanding and then going to buff out sanding scratches? Most likely you will not be able to finish swirl free with a rotary, however a rotary is good since it works way quicker then a dual action and thus you actually don't remove paint. You will probably have to finish up with a dual action to get down to swirl free. The best thing to do is tape of a small area and do a test spot on your sanding stages (assuming), then compounds, medium compounds (if needed), and final polishing. Then put a light on it as well as pull it out in the sun and look at various angles and it it is good to you then do the same to the rest of the car. |
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busmania Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2006 Posts: 1934 Location: Here
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Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:19 am Post subject: Re: my next dumb question, which buffer/polisher? |
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74 Thing wrote: |
Go over to autogeek.net and take a look at what they have to offer in rotarys vs dual actions.
What are your intentions? Are you wet or damp sanding and then going to buff out sanding scratches? Most likely you will not be able to finish swirl free with a rotary, however a rotary is good since it works way quicker then a dual action and thus you actually don't remove paint. You will probably have to finish up with a dual action to get down to swirl free. The best thing to do is tape of a small area and do a test spot on your sanding stages (assuming), then compounds, medium compounds (if needed), and final polishing. Then put a light on it as well as pull it out in the sun and look at various angles and it it is good to you then do the same to the rest of the car. |
My intentions are to use it very rarely. I am working on painting some door jambs and under a deck lid. Other than that, I am paying to have the rest of the car painted.
I bought the harbor freight rotary. I then tried to "buff out" the clear coat on my freshly painted deck lid (underside) and burned through the paint in a spot and got scurred so I stopped. I think the pad I was using was too dense. And I don't really know what I am doing. Will practice some more before I use it on real paint again.
BUT, some questions on getting rid of orange peal and dust in clear coat....The orange peal is not bad. Is the correct process to wet sand with high grit (1500ish) and then buff with buffer? What pad(s) do I use? Any recommendations? Or am I just buffing it with a buffing pad? Maybe I am getting buffing and cutting mixed up....sure wish I knew a body person. |
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Chitty1 Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2016 Posts: 20 Location: Ontario Canada
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 4:47 pm Post subject: Re: My next dumb question, which buffer/polisher? |
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Take a look at detailedimage.com or autogeek.net. They have good how-to instructions and blogs on which pad/buffer combinations to use in various circumstances.
The rotary polisher is very powerful and an inexperienced operator can easily burn through the clear if not careful.
A good DA polisher like the Porter Cable 7424 will do most jobs and it's almost impossible to burn through, even with the most aggressive pad. Rupes and Flex are also good choices but are more expensive.
Lake Country backing plates and pads are the best (IMO). For removing orange peel and imperfections in the clear, the most aggressive are twisted or foamed wool pads. For foam pads, most aggressive is yellow, then orange. To remove swirl, peel and light scratches, use these with Meguiars M105 compound (or equivalent). To bring up the shine, typically a white foam pad with Meguiars M205 polish (or equivalent) produces good results. I do most clear corrections with the orange and white pads. I like the 5.5" pads for most work and 4" pads for tight spots.
Read up on the techniques on either of the above websites. They have a lot of good instructions and advice. You can order the detailing supplies you need from these sites also. _________________ 1963 Bug, 1600DP, 12V alternator conversion
2012 Mustang GT
1998 New Beetle (wife's)
Plus 2 other non-descript DD's |
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