Brake issues, rear solid line stuck

[pgslaughter]

So I've pulled my square out of long term storage and have gotten back to the last issue I put it away with. The master cylinder (fairly new) seems to be pumping brake fluid into the tunnel. I had lost my brakes and to start diagnosing filled the reservoir and started pumping the fronts (dual circuit) by the time I had hooked up my mityvac I had a puddle of brake fluid under the rear floor pan area. I had the rear floor pans replaced and I have a feeling that they might have cut something (unfortunately the shop is out of business so I have no recourse). I undid the rear solid line at both ends and went to pull it and it won't budge. I have the end loose under the rear seat, but should I be able to see the line under the carpet? I have tried pulling on both sides to no avail and I'm thinking it might be covered in seam sealer clogging the tunnel... Is running a new line outside the pan a no-no? Trying to think of other possibilities. Any ideas would be great thanks!

[MonT3]

There is a coupler attached to the rear of the pan where both rear brake lines attach to. Is that were the leak is coming from? You can see that coupler in a pic in the attached link along with how the brake line terminates at the master cylinder. Scroll down to see some images of the line.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...;start=500
The line is secured in place at the base of the tunnel with small metal tabs to keep it in place. That may be why the line is not moving for you. You'll have to move the carpet (front and rear) far enough to get at that. Hope this helps.
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MonT3
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[pgslaughter]

Do you mean the tee coupler that goes to both sides of the rear brakes? I've removed that and I've loosened the tab under the rear seat. I pulled the rear floor carpets up and there is no brake line to be seen. Does it come up through the floor by the seat? Thanks! And that build thread is amazing!

[69 Notchback]

It runs on the driver's side of the tunnel tight against the out side of the tunel. The same tabse u found under the back seat, you will find the same tabs holding the line down along the driver's side of the tunel.

[MonT3]

From your description, it sounds like a re-routed line to me. Replaced and possibly ran thru the tunnel. Your initial post mentions the line running into the tunnel which is partially true as the master cylinder end runs thru the frame-head then into the open directly next to the tunnel and pedal assembly, held in place by along the tunnel with tabs until it enters the rear portion of the pan. One the rear, outside of the pan, the coupler attaches to the line. That’s how I recall it. Is it possible to post pics of the entry and exit location of your line or what you’re seeing? Have you had the opportunity to roll back or move the carpet out of the way were the pedal are up front to see if the line is running the length of the tunnel or not? Pics would help.

Thanks for the compliment on the build thread.
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MonT3
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63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
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[pgslaughter]

I think I may have found the sticking point. I freed it from the tab at the drivers seat, but this is what it looks like where the rear floor pan was put in

slathered in seam sealer...
another view:

You can see here how it is clear under the drivers seat until it gets to the rear floor. Mont3 you seem to have some working knowledge of seam sealer, will I be able to get this thing out of there?

[MonT3]

You can remove the seat, clear the line of fluid and move the carpet out the way and work the seam sealer with a heat gun to soften it enough to work the brake line out. Not sure why the PO would have done that but that's in the past. If it's there, there's a reason for it so don't clear it out. By using a paint scraper/putty knife, it'll assist in freeing so you can get that line out. You may have to re-seal that area if the pan was just layed in there. Most importantly, take your time with it. Remember you just want to soften it enough to remove it from its captivity. It's possible you may even have to cut along the brake line to get it out. Good luck
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MonT3
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[pgslaughter]

I have a feeling the pan was just laid in with the seam sealer judging by other past experiences of PO moments with the car. The most arduous task of all of that will be getting the seat out... Is it just my type 3 or do all the seats stick?Thanks for the advice!

[MonT3]

[pgslaughter]

There's plastic on the rails. I redid the seats about 10 years or so ago and got new plastic for the rails but they never did slide easily. Last time I removed them I had to use a deadblow hammer while holding down the release lever... Possilbly the alignment of the rails is off... Good thing it's the weekend!

[KTPhil]

Yes, it's worth straightening the rails. Then straighten and clean (maybe even with steel wool) the grooves on the seat bottom. Then lube the grooves and the plastic rails with silicone lubricant (grease will collect more dust).

[raygreenwood]

[pgslaughter]

So the rails are indeed in need of some substantial straightening. The plastic covers themselves even were warped. This was my daily driver for 10 years after I did a very low-end interior redo which included rebuilding the seats. Here's what the plastic covers looked like:

And here are the rails compared to a straight edge:

So after searching for 'straighten rails, 'seat rails' etc. I didn't find a good thread on straightening these. Should I try to fix them in place? I.e. bang them around with a hammer?

[pgslaughter]

Also whats the recommendation for brake line? ISP west lists the brake line at 7 bucks, I've bought parts from them before and I was always satisfied so I assume this is preflared with the fittings. This would be my second choice, if I could find it locally: http://agscompany.com/product/european-poly-armour-pvf-steel-brake-line-316-x-84/

[MonT3]

There is a long main brake line offered for $7. Part# 211611741K on their site. When it comes, you just straighten it and install it.

You might be able to pry that rail straight again. I've never done it but I think it's worth a try. Maybe try to get behind that curled edge and pry upward with it. An option would be to place a 2x4 or 4x4 with a pry bar or claw hammer on it to get under the rail. Don't Hulk out on it but try some gentle prying and see if it responds. No need to beat on it right off. The other rail that looks level but could use some adjusting to get the bubble correct. I'd hold on that side until you deal with the center tunnel rail, test fit to see what you have to do and move on it. What does the other outer rail look like with the level?
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MonT3
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63 Squareback
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[pgslaughter]

Thanks for all the help guys, got the old brake line out (corroded) and replaced!