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mikeyboy_85 Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2004 Posts: 59 Location: Victoria Australia
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Posted: Mon May 30, 2005 12:52 am Post subject: Type 4 into Type 3? |
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can someone please direct me to a post that would have the information/mods that u have to do to put a type 4 engine into a 1965 type 3?? do u need to modify the rear suspension at all?
thanks michael |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Russ Wolfe Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 25187 Location: Central Iowa
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Posted: Mon May 30, 2005 7:16 am Post subject: |
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You might also browse through Tomnotch's web sight.
http://home.att.net/~airdoc/page7t4eng.html
His works well. _________________ Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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67FastyRSA Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2004 Posts: 179 Location: Presov, Slovak Republic
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 12:46 am Post subject: |
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Or you could search for some of my posts & photos on my conversion.... Swing axle right? Mine is still pretty messy looking but works great. No suspention mods needed by the way.
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Bugman_Jeff Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 103 Location: Salem, Oregon. AKA: Meth World
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 4:56 am Post subject: |
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Hey 67FastyRSA, I performed a search for all the photos you have listed and saw nothing on the actual conversion. But I was impressed at the one-handed 100mph dash shot though! _________________ 71 Fastback (resting/rusting)
76 IH Scout 2 (Official Jeep/Hummer recovery vehicle)
81 MB 240D (the DD)
http://community.webshots.com/user/ihcguy |
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67FastyRSA Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2004 Posts: 179 Location: Presov, Slovak Republic
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 7:27 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
Well basically this is the things i did:
2l CJ case type iv engine with standard solex duals...
You do not need to cut the bay of the car but i needed to trip some of the cooling tin that surrounds the engine. I use the oil-bath aircleaner... I've seen ppl use the flat pancake filters but i still like to use the cold air inlet so that is connected. I used the shorter inlet manifolds from the 411/412 variant i think as the bus ones are too high. this will mean you have to lengthen your throttle pull bar... i just welded a extra piece in.
Cooling... i used the fan shroud adapter froma 411/412 variant that bolts on in the place of the screen in front of the cooling fan(its made from plastic).Used the standard type 3 bellows but they need to be made to fit on the fan side of the boot as it is too big.
You will need to get a electric fuel pump and propably a regulator as you will have to remove the stock pump and blank off the hole(stock won't clear the tranny) The part that gave me the most headaches was the clutch..... You can use a type 2 clutch up to 215mm depending on what model (guide tube, collar etc. ) tranny you have. Because i have a early type tranny (without guide), I am using a 1600 type 2 clutch with a pressure plate(with collar). You will also need to have the needle bearing in the crank taken out. This you have to relocate to the flywheel (type 2 gearbox input shaft is longer). Do this by having the hole machined to size and press-fitting the bearing. I also used the shortened rear engine support bar and welded mounts onto the area close to the bumper mounting points... this is essential for smooth gearselection and to minimise wear on the gearbox input shaft and shaft seal.
My car is a swing axle but i reckon with IRS the difference is just in the support structure... make sure of that. Also I converted points ignition to the OEM Electronic ignition of a 1900 carb waterboxer.... one of the best upgrades that you can do. So much more accurate and smooth throught the whole rpm range...
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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67FastyRSA wrote: |
Or you could search for some of my posts & photos on my conversion.... Swing axle right? Mine is still pretty messy looking but works great. No suspention mods needed by the way.
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What air cleaner is that out of?? I've got a 2.0L t-4 here that I want to put in my Notch, but I also want to use an oil bath air cleaner. Yours looks like a nice and clean set up. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Russ Wolfe Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 25187 Location: Central Iowa
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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That is a T-2 1700 air cleaner. _________________ Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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67FastyRSA Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2004 Posts: 179 Location: Presov, Slovak Republic
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Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 11:46 pm Post subject: |
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Just make sure you get the right side-parts on the carbs... i had to improvise with washing machine hose and copper pipe |
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Rome Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004 Posts: 9653 Location: Pearl River, NY
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the overview and tips on your conversion, 67fasty. Here in the USA, all 411 and 412 sedans and wagons (imported from '71 thru '74) came standard equipment with fuel injection, so no carbs to search out "locally" like the rest of the world could. US Busses went to the T4 engine starting with 1972, whereby the T1 engine was not offered at all anymore. US busses went to FI a few years later ('76??) but as you pointed out, the manifolds for the dual carbs on the T4 busses are too tall to fit into a T3. |
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tomnotch Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2004 Posts: 788 Location: Key Peninsula, Wash.
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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Change the lower engine mount to trans studs to T1/T3. This will give you more room to get the engine in and there won't be exessive stud length hanging out.
Have the T4 flywjheel center reamed for a T4 pilot brg. and press/loctite one in.
Remove all the excessive sheet metal from around the T4 engine, its obvious.
You *may* need to remove the rear engine mount from the body, its pretty close to the fan shroud when installing the engine.
The T4 engine will now fit. _________________ Tom
DVKK
DSD, Dark Side Disciples
Progenitor |
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thevanillaninja Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2004 Posts: 704 Location: Scott, IL
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Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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man, 67FastyRSA, without opening up your car it's confusing! says VR6 on the front, 1600 on the back, but when you check it out it's a 2.0 t4! crazy! _________________ 1967 Zenith Blue Type 1 "Elaine"
Bought in 2004
Stored for 4 1/2 years and soon to be resurrected..
'67 beetle |
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67FastyRSA Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2004 Posts: 179 Location: Presov, Slovak Republic
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Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 12:25 am Post subject: |
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I suppose you could have the manifolds cut? Otherwise I think i have a spare pair of short manifolds if you can't get help somewhere else. The pilot bearing in the flywheel is very important if you dont want your gearbox-juice coming out of the bellhousing. My rear mounting was removed even before this conversion cos there was a 1400 nissan engine in there but ur right about removing it.
Vanilla, since those photos were taken its grown another badge. this time a 2000 alfa badge in the grille. Dont particularly like those plastic 2000 volkswagen badges.
BTW I made an aluminium centre console last night. Radio is already in and i plan to put a blower-fan in there as well at a later stage. If anyone is interested i'll take some pics. |
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