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Bugman_Jeff
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 8:52 pm    Post subject: I'm stumped Reply with quote

I've got a continuing problem with my fasty. After getting the new 34 ICT's on and balanced, timing set, new points/cap/rotor/condenser, etc, I drove the car for a month or so before it started running funny. Further research concluded it ate a set of wires in a month so I replaced them. The #1 wasn't firing.

Since then I have not managed to get the thing to fire on #1. I've retorqued the head, adjusted the valves, checked the pushrods (all were straight), and installed new plugs and wires. When I use a seperate plug to test the fire, all plugs fire the same, even #1. A dry compression check on 1 and 2 netted me about 92 pounds. I checked 4 and it was at 120, but by then I think I'd consider that one a wet check, as the motor had spun enough to lube the rings. (Took several tries to get the thing screwed into the #2 the right way. GRRRR!!!)

Then I notice something strange. The underside of the cap has what looks like contact marks on the side of the terminal leading up to the the post on the cap. But the rotor shows no sign of wear and there is no signs of shavings in the dizzy. I looked at the old cap and it had the same marks. Just weird. One other thing to consider is that the #1 plug has an insert on it. Someone obviously goobered up the hole once and had to bore it bigger and use the saver on it. Could this keep it from grounding? Could my FI dizzy be the culprit?

I'm about to sell the whole car and buy EFI for my Scout. Please help.

Thanks! Confused
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Tram
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you get normal fire on that plug when you test it with another plug grounded out where you can see it, you don't have an ignition problem. Run the car with your inductive timing light hooked up (if you have one) If Nr. 1 makes the light flash, you have spark, and you have ground. Otherwise, there's no signal to fire the light.

Keep in mind that you're supposed to do a compression test on a warm engine with ALL the spark plugs removed. Wink I think your compression readings on 1 and 2 were low because the rings weren't oiled, as you said.

If you're running the OE distributor, make sure the dwell and timing is correct. Make sure you don't have a worn distributor point cam lobe, or a wobbly dist. shaft. From there.....


That leaves fuel. I'd say you either have a jet plugged on that side, or a vacuum leak. If it were me, I'd examine and mabe even replace the intake gasket between the manifold and the head, ESPECIALLY if you used the cheap- @ss tin intake gasket they give you in the cheap engine sets. I'd get an aftermarket CARDBOARD type intake gasket, with some "meat" to it.
If your carbs have a balance tube, look at that carefully as well. If the cylinder isn't getting enough fuel to fire, it'll run cold.
I mention this because the "one side running cold" deal throws people. They think it's the warmer side that has the problem.
Remember, it needs fuel, timing, compression, AS WELL AS spark to fire.
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ddare
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the gasket thing, I just made mine out of Lucky Charms cereal boxes Smile

My #3 wouldn't fire for the longest time, one of the things I did to rule out fuel as being an issue was switch the carbs from driver's to passenger side and vice versa. You have to undo the linkage and that piece that bolts on to hold the linkage, but at least on mine, those two pieces were reversible. Put them back on and see if that changes anything.
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ddare wrote:
For the gasket thing, I just made mine out of Lucky Charms cereal boxes Smile

Personally, I prefer Cheerios boxes Wink
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Tram
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ Wolfe wrote:
ddare wrote:
For the gasket thing, I just made mine out of Lucky Charms cereal boxes Smile

Personally, I prefer Cheerios boxes Wink


Now you guys have me thinking. I wonder if gaskets made from a box of really high sugar content cereal, like CoCo Puffs, might add a little performance?
A VW on a sugar high..... Think
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
Russ Wolfe wrote:
ddare wrote:
For the gasket thing, I just made mine out of Lucky Charms cereal boxes Smile

Personally, I prefer Cheerios boxes Wink


Now you guys have me thinking. I wonder if gaskets made from a box of really high sugar content cereal, like CoCo Puffs, might add a little performance?
A VW on a sugar high..... Think

My Cheerios are Heart Smart. Would that lower the cholesterol of your VW??
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My vote is for Peanut Butter Crunch Berries. Keep that stuff lubricated. Cool
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typfasty
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got Milk?
http://www.milksucks.com/index2.html
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2005 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a health teach in school preach all that is on that website. Made me think differnt from that point on about dairy products Shocked

But I still like some thick rim sticking Vit D milk on my Captain Crunch Wink
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2005 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is what is wrong with our schools today. The teachers are teaching their own agenda's, and not the ABC's. Mad Mad
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Bugman_Jeff
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2005 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I replaced the dizzy when I found that the thing had a bit more up/down play than the other dizzys in my collection. I put in a good 205 with new points/condenser/cap/rotor. Still does it. Mad

I didn't have a vacuum balance line hooked up, I just used the plugs that came on the carbs. But I put a hose on it today and t'd it to the dizzy. Still no change. Evil or Very Mad

I don't think it's fuel since when I pull the #2 wire, it drops off like it should. Acts more like a spark thing. And it has a brand new filter, so there shouldn't be anything getting in there. but anything is possible at this point.

I'll try the plugless compression check when it's warm and see what I get.

The #1 plug has one of those thread saver things on it. Could it be not allowing it to ground to the head to spark? (I'm grasping at straws now Confused ) The thing I notice is that when it is first running, it's as if it's just is off a little, not running smoothly. But as it warms up it develops a pretty constant pop out the exhaust. Evil or Very Mad
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2005 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bugman_Jeff wrote:
OK, I replaced the dizzy when I found that the thing had a bit more up/down play than the other dizzys in my collection. I put in a good 205 with new points/condenser/cap/rotor. Still does it. Mad

I didn't have a vacuum balance line hooked up, I just used the plugs that came on the carbs. But I put a hose on it today and t'd it to the dizzy. Still no change. Evil or Very Mad

I don't think it's fuel since when I pull the #2 wire, it drops off like it should. Acts more like a spark thing. And it has a brand new filter, so there shouldn't be anything getting in there. but anything is possible at this point.

I'll try the plugless compression check when it's warm and see what I get.

The #1 plug has one of those thread saver things on it. Could it be not allowing it to ground to the head to spark? (I'm grasping at straws now Confused ) The thing I notice is that when it is first running, it's as if it's just is off a little, not running smoothly. But as it warms up it develops a pretty constant pop out the exhaust. Evil or Very Mad


That tells me it's possibly running lean on those cylinders, esp. if it runs better cold with the chokes on. I REALLY think you've got a fuel problem. Of course, not being able to actually see/ analyse the situation, I could be wrong. But, EVERY symptom you've listed indicates a lean mixture on that side.
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