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mikegronholz Samba Member
Joined: January 15, 2005 Posts: 31
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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 11:28 am Post subject: Couple of prep type questions ... |
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I am getting ready for painting the pan and getting it all purty. Couple of questions.
I am planning on having the pan blasted (without floor pans on it) to get absolutely all the grease and grime off of it. I will then spray it with a coat of Metal Ready from POR-15.
Here's the question ... with no cables or tubes of any kind in the "frame", should I send it to burn off before blasting. Burn off is baking it at about 800* to get all the grease, grime, fluids etc to burn to ash. Then send to blast.
what are your thoughts on that ?
Also, can you weld parts that have been coated with Por-15 ?
Thanks for any input.
Mike |
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marklaken Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004 Posts: 2416 Location: fort collins, CO
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Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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not sure on the burning off part...if it is a common hot rodder prep thing, you might ask the burn shop if it will warp the thin gauge pans...seems to me like there is a risk of that...
as for welding thru POR-15, i emailed them that very question and they said that welding will burn-off the POR-15 and that one should use weld-thru primer...they said POR-15 is good upto about 600*F...i imagine you can weld thru it, but it will be nasty stuff when it is burned off wear a respirator and well ventilated garage to limit your exposure and you should be okay so long as you ain't doing it for a living... _________________ Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles
'65 rear left beetle fender
15" Bus Wheels in fair condition
Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO |
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VintageVulture Samba Member
Joined: May 25, 2003 Posts: 789 Location: Pacific Northwest- USA
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Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 12:12 am Post subject: |
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do all your welding before any metal prep is done, that's just common sense... Otherwise you're just going to burn up what you've applied and have to sand and repair it again. |
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groovinvwdriver Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2005 Posts: 2 Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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i wouldn't suggest welding through anything if you don't have to... the cleaner the metal the better the weld.
_rob |
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mikegronholz Samba Member
Joined: January 15, 2005 Posts: 31
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Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks guys ... what I'm really concerned about is after the tunnel is blasted clean and POR-15'd, when I go to weld the new pans on will the weld go through the POR-15 ?
Or should I POR-15 the tunnel, then drill 1/4" holes through the tunnel lip and weld the pans from the bottom ?
My concern is having unprotected metal hiding in the cracks. |
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myolbug Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2004 Posts: 776 Location: 3 feet behind my head!
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Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 2:38 pm Post subject: |
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I agree with having ALL of the metal work compelted before doing anything else. This just allows the total finish to be better. Also, there aren't any suprises later on where the unprotected metal gets missed. _________________ "To my mind it is wholly irresponsible to go into the world incapable of preventing violence, injury, crime, and death. How feeble is the mindset to accept defenselessness. How unnatural. How cheap. How cowardly. How pathetic." Ted Nugent
candyman wrote: |
i broke my brain over ten years ago and its still dumb |
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57 Zwitter? Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2003 Posts: 418 Location: Boston, Mass.
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Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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I just did one last week. Removed the old pans, chiseled off the old pan remnants along the tunnel side flanges. Sent it to the blaster, Got it back all nice and clean. Painted on the POR-15 everywhere with the exception of where I was going to be welding in the new pans. Another thing I did that I think is important...with my 3m body shutz (undercoating) gun, I filled it with 1/2 qt of POR-15 and sprayed it into the inside of the tunnel from the front, thru the transmission mount holes at the rear frame fork and down thru the tunnel access hole under the rear seat. That will stop any rust that cannot be sandblasted. Then I drilled 3/8" holes every 2" and ground along the edge of the new floorpans and mig welded them onto the chassis, ground the welds smooth, scratched up the new pans with some 320 paper and painted everything with a coat of POR-15. Body caulked every welded seam and sprayed everything top and bottom with 3m body shutz undercoating. Here on the East coast undercoating is necessary, but in Cal. you probably just need to paint everything. Good Luck |
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Mr. Bungle Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2003 Posts: 1705 Location: Vancouver BC, Canada
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Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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mikegronholz wrote: |
Thanks guys ... what I'm really concerned about is after the tunnel is blasted clean and POR-15'd, when I go to weld the new pans on will the weld go through the POR-15 ?
Or should I POR-15 the tunnel, then drill 1/4" holes through the tunnel lip and weld the pans from the bottom ?
My concern is having unprotected metal hiding in the cracks. |
do not try to weld through por15 or any other paint. it's messy and the weld wont "take". you need clean, bare metal for a good weld.
do not drill holes in the lip of the *edit* tunnel *edit* and weld the pan halves on from the bottom. drill the holes in the pan halves and weld them from the top.
as for unprotected metal between the cracks, i use 3m weld-thru primer. 2 light coats on both inside surfaces and you're good to go. you may have to turn up the voltage on your welder a bit, and the weld-thru primer has a tendancy to pop and spit, and it may take some time to get used to, but it works. what it does is "move" away from the area being welded when heated and "moves" back to coat both surfaces as the metal cools. i know it sounds weird, but it works. i practiced on scraps before starting on my car, just so i could get the hang of it.
imo, you should cut out the old pans, clean up the lip on the chassis, fit the new pans, drill holes every 2-3"s, clean the edge of the pans, apply 2 light coats of weld-thru primer to the pan edge and chassis lip, spot weld in the new pans, grind the welds, send the hole thing to be blasted (make sure the blaster knows to be carefull with the new pan halves, they're thin and can warp), then por15 the whole thing, then apply seam sealer.
good luck. |
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