Author |
Message |
Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
|
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 1:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I also use those NGK plugs.
I just put the Dakota Digital sender under the spark plug sealing washer and install the plug .......head/plug/DD/NGK.
Done. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 2:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Randy in Maine wrote: |
I also use those NGK plugs.
I just put the Dakota Digital sender under the spark plug sealing washer and install the plug ... .
Done. |
Concur with Randy - using NGK plugs, and no plug sealing ring I found higher temps and carbon on the plug threads indicating to me that high temp gases were leaking out around the plug threads and temp sender. Using the NGK sealing ring, and the temp sender together stopped the leakage. Just have to be careful not to oval the sender.
plug
sealing ring
temp sender
Head _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12728 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
|
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 7:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I made a mistake in my earlier post about hooking the dimmer wire up the the instrument panel light fuse. I should have said to attach the piggyback connector to the actual terminal on the headlight switch that controls the instrument lights. I'll edit it now, I'm sorry if you already hooked up the wires (wrong)!
Please disconnect your battery before working deep in the switch wiring. _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
brainwash Samba Member
Joined: June 22, 2014 Posts: 64
|
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
asiab3 wrote: |
I made a mistake in my earlier post about hooking the dimmer wire up the the instrument panel light fuse. I should have said to attach the piggyback connector to the actual terminal on the headlight switch that controls the instrument lights. I'll edit it now, I'm sorry if you already hooked up the wires (wrong)! |
No worries, haven't gotten to it yet.
Thanks for the wiring instructions! I'd never seen the piggyback connectors before but just ordered a set off of ebay. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
brainwash Samba Member
Joined: June 22, 2014 Posts: 64
|
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Randy in Maine wrote: |
I also use those NGK plugs.
I just put the Dakota Digital sender under the spark plug sealing washer and install the plug |
SGKent wrote: |
Concur with Randy - using NGK plugs, and no plug sealing ring I found higher temps and carbon on the plug threads indicating to me that high temp gases were leaking out around the plug threads and temp sender. Using the NGK sealing ring, and the temp sender together stopped the leakage. Just have to be careful not to oval the sender.
plug
sealing ring
temp sender
Head |
I couldn't get the crush washer off of the plug to sandwich the sender between it and the plug. How'd you guys manage to remove it? Did you cut the sender ring? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12728 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
|
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 9:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
brainwash wrote: |
Randy in Maine wrote: |
I also use those NGK plugs.
I just put the Dakota Digital sender under the spark plug sealing washer and install the plug |
SGKent wrote: |
Concur with Randy - using NGK plugs, and no plug sealing ring I found higher temps and carbon on the plug threads indicating to me that high temp gases were leaking out around the plug threads and temp sender. Using the NGK sealing ring, and the temp sender together stopped the leakage. Just have to be careful not to oval the sender.
plug
sealing ring
temp sender
Head |
I couldn't get the crush washer off of the plug to sandwich the sender between it and the plug. How'd you guys manage to remove it? Did you cut the sender ring? |
"Under" is relative. Neither of them took the washer off. I did once as an experiment before I learned that the depth of my plug wells were really the problem. Just slide the sender onto a new plug and seat the thing, keeping the sender terminal in one of the slits (if you have them) so it doesn't bind on the socket. T4s don't have the binding-well issue. _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
PITApan Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014 Posts: 1058 Location: Northern Colorado
|
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 9:32 pm Post subject: Re: Oil temp sensor location |
|
|
pagjac wrote: |
Hi,
I read with great interest your posting on oil temp sender location. I want to tackle the job of installing the sender in the correct location you mentioned and I quote: "...the best place to mount one is right before the oil pump using the oil gallery plug behind the oil pickup tube".
Could you explain more on how to do that? Maybe by posting an image of the location on the engine with some instructions on how to remove the plug and if the tapping of the hole is at all possible without removing the engine?
Thanks in advance
Jacques Pagé 1981 aircooled RIVIERA |
I did some investigations of oil ttemps on a different air cooled engine over the last year. I put one "sender" in the oil pan, One in the exhaust side pushrod tube (hottest oil in the motor) and one down the dipstick hole. The one in the PR tube was a thermistor hooked to a VDO oil temp gauge. The other two were type K bead thermocouples read with a Fluke thermocouple thermometer.
I found the PR tube sensor lead during large temp changes, like when starting. But pretty soon the others caught up (<5 minutes) and all read the same. The only advantage of the PR tube sensor was that it showed big fluctuations rapidly----not very useful nfo compared to max temps.
So my conclusion was that it really didn't make a hoot bit of difference where you read from.
I have an oil pressure gauge on the same motor. The oil temps and pressures folowed each other closely (dino Castrol 20/50 4T). So the two gauges were redundant except for collecting the initial data. In the bus I will be running an oil pressure gauge and a CHT gauge. I'm betting the oil temps will be following the CHT and I can check it with a dipstick probe. The pressure will reveal not only something about temp but also low oil and leaks.
If I were going to fit a temp sender of the thermistor type, I'd put it in the inspection plate (I don't off road) and I'd do a flush mount in the inspection plate if I did off-road. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 2:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
What about installing the ring terminal under one of the head stud nuts/washers for #3 cylinder? The temps might read differently but what you really need is the trend more than the actual numbers anyway. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drakonis Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2012 Posts: 251 Location: Granite Falls, WA
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
so i got locked out of my original post. why i dont know. its not a general problem. Its my current problem that im trying to get answers from. well what ever. Ill consult somewhere else then. If i get locked out of my own post. not cool. _________________ 71 Bay. "ketchikan" |
|
Back to top |
|
|
aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Don't take it personally. Tcash is just trying to keep things tidy on the samba. He's grouping your thread with another similar one. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Easier to get you more information based on a long discussion that has some info that is extremely related to what you're looking for. _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
|
Back to top |
|
|
PITApan Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014 Posts: 1058 Location: Northern Colorado
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
aeromech wrote: |
What about installing the ring terminal under one of the head stud nuts/washers for #3 cylinder? The temps might read differently but what you really need is the trend more than the actual numbers anyway. |
You also want response speed.
Not people are asking about absolute readings they re seeing, not trends.
Installing under the nut may have torque problems. I don't think there is a good solution engine-in short of the factory sender or a home made one that fits in that hole.
Engine-out people have mentioned number of solutions involving screwing the sensor to the fins or head.
I can't imagine dicking around with an under plug sender. I'd get the tin off and install directly to the head. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Also keep in mind that there really is not a lot of CHT information available for a Type 1 engine, most is for us Type 4 guys that have more of a history of dropping valve seats.
Colin has done some tracking of his 1970 "Cloey bus" CHTs as he drives it all over. Been here?
http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=9835
Last edited by Randy in Maine on Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:02 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I'd get the tin off and install directly to the head
I had an engine built back in about 1979 for my bus and the builder placed the sender under one of the head stud nuts. Seemed to work fine and wasn't a problem during spark plug changes. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
|
Back to top |
|
|
richparker Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011 Posts: 6983 Location: Durango, CO
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
drakonis wrote: |
so i got locked out of my original post. why i dont know. its not a general problem. Its my current problem that im trying to get answers from. well what ever. Ill consult somewhere else then. If i get locked out of my own post. not cool. |
I hear you loud and clear. Maybe try the "engine and Preformace" forum, there are different cops, oh I mean monitors there maybe you won't get locked.
These days I wonder why even start a thread on Thesamba in the Bay window forum when Tcash and Brian lock them. If there is enough room to store a gizillion pics why isn't there room threads that may touch on the same information. But yet they'll let someone like PITApan disrespect a 100 people before they lock his threads. This forum is over managed.
Tcash I do think you do great things here but locking his thread was not right. Just posting the link to the CHT Nirvana would have been enough. He is new here and really into his ACVW, I researched him, and now he may never return.
Maybe all the threads should be locked except the ones you feel people should use. For instance if you have temp questions you guys should create a temp only sticky and stickys for all possible questions so no threads can be created.
I road trip a lot (as you should know) and post threads on this forum because I drive a bay. Would you guys pefer I used the "events and camping" forum?
Rant over but still feel locking all these threads is BS!
Rich P. _________________ __________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build
Last edited by richparker on Tue Mar 03, 2015 5:03 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drakonis Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2012 Posts: 251 Location: Granite Falls, WA
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
drakonis Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2012 Posts: 251 Location: Granite Falls, WA
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for the bit of support rich. much appreciated. _________________ 71 Bay. "ketchikan" |
|
Back to top |
|
|
PITApan Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014 Posts: 1058 Location: Northern Colorado
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Don't forget the thermostat bracket, pulley, cable and coupling nut. Just went through this. But I can't afford APC tins so I sourced scrapyard ones and just painted them. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drakonis Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2012 Posts: 251 Location: Granite Falls, WA
|
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
yeah bracket of course. pulley? cable? coupling nut? what are these for? the carbs?
i just installed a new throttle cable/solid wire a week ago. _________________ 71 Bay. "ketchikan" |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|