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notch for sale on ebay
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drivingpenguin wrote:
thanks russ, i'll definitely check that vin. any idea if a swingaxle suspension/manual tranny combo can be put on an auto pan? i know the manual tranny is bolted onto horns whereas the auto w/ irs uses a different mount, but can that horn assembly be bolted on to an auto pan? i guess i just don't know the differences since i've never seen one.

You can change to a swing axle by change the complete rear suspension assemble. This is if you have the clutch tube inside the tunnel. A solution to this if you don't have the tube, is a hydraulic clutch.

how do the autos drive anyway? are they much slower than the sticks?

No, automatics are not slower than manuals. They actually have a higher rear end ration than a manual. Manual = 4.13, auto = 3.87. I drive my '71 at 70mph plus all the time.

also, what's the difference in engines for an auto vs stick? my shop manual seems to indicate they're different, but i can't find the difference??


The difference is in the case behind the flywheel. There is a cutout cast in that allows access to the torque converter bolts. This notch can be put in by grinding away part of the manual tranny case.
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drivingpenguin
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aahhh i did read something about the torque converter bolt access! damn, thanks. and hell, now that i've read more about it, the auto tranny sounds kindof fun.

the one thing i'm not getting is how big a deal it is to put in a clutch cable tube? it seems like it would be easy... drill a few holes, run a tube and voila? Embarassed
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, it is not simple. You have to open up the tunnel, and weld it in. It has to be anchored solid in 3 places. Front by the pedal cluster, center under the e-brake handle and rear where it exits the tunnel.
Hydraulic clutch is the best way to go if you do put a manual trans in. Also, you will need manual trans axles, as the automatic axles are not the same length.
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bugginmiami
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a friend here with a 68 notch auto, that is 100% orig, so its surely possible. His is a euro model as well. The ebay one has loback seats. (68?). Gas door on outside, no rear motor mount, no sliders on dash, so it looks like a 68 to me. If it was in my area for $1500, id at least look at it. When working right, auto is cool. For a florida car that car is rustfree, for a northeast car, that things showroom!
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drivingpenguin
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

does your friend's 68 have FI? I thought 67 was the last year for carburetted engines, so I was curious whether this guy (or somebody else) removed the FI.

this is after a friend of a friend suggested "I would be more worried that someone removed the fuel injection because it will be harder (with carbs)to get the idle right for the stall speed."
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Few notches had FI. When I Photoshopped the picture of the rear seat, I saw nothing that looked like a VIN number. That is weird.
Late European VW's came from the factory with carbs, and automatics. Thereis no problem getting a carbed engine to idle with an automatic.
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bugginmiami
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My friends has carbs, factory setup. Its even white/red int like that one on ebay. Like russ said, they (euros) did get carbs later, and on a car that has lived a life like the one one ebay (thought its not bad, but obviously been used) its surely not uncommon to have someone yanked off the EFI. If its been converted to carb, id think the kickdown switch and all that is hokey (if its even there), but yes will run and drive and idle fine. What actually puzzled me was the lowbacks. When did euros stop getting lowbacks?
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drivingpenguin
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey guys, i saw the car. here's BIG question... based on what i'm about to tell you, what do you guys think it's worth, max?

i'll give you the good news first... the vins match, which is nice Very Happy

the bad news... i am really worried about the tranny. i know jack about autos, but looking at the car i saw a few inspection covers that were missing entirely. one under the car was about 2.5" square and missing... and a long skinny one in the engine compartment on top of the transmission. through both i could see the teeth that engage the starter.

also bad, he didn't seem to know the inspection holes were open and did drive the car around in that state. he said when he got it he rebuilt the engine and drove it for a bit (without those covers!!) after a short while the engine rpms started to drop and ultimately it died. I didn't try to turn it but i'm guessing the engine needs a complete rebuild.

The turn signal mystery is solved... the owner before this guy actually cut the fenders to put that older style in Evil or Very Mad

The numbers match, the engine isn't a deal breaker, but God knows what manner of sand and dirt has gotten into that tranny Crying or Very sad

What's a fair price for something like that?
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Notched
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are open areas, where you can see the torque converter teeth. There may not be a cover. Freaked me out when I first saw one too.

What's the rust like? Switching to the original turn signals and reflector housings is simple. If you even want to do that.

IMHO - It would be very cool to *gasp* return to original. The number of auto early Notchbacks has to be very low in numbers. I'm no purist, but the cool factor of this car is there.
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Current stock: '57 Panel Bus, '63 Rat Notch, '64 Baja, '66 Variant, '67 Convertible Ghia, '68 Squareback, '69 Squareback, '69 Fastback

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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you check the numbers under the rear seat?? And they match. This is good. The automatic, is not a killer. I have 2 spares. Rebuild kits are about $125. I am trying to picture the inspection cover on the trans you are talking about. There is a tin cover that covers part of the differential case, and the air vents on the tranny. I have one of those if needed. It would not cause a problem with the trans, but should be replaced.
As for any missing on the engine, that is bad. All tins should be in place on the engine. They are there for a reason, and that is to help with cooling. If the VW engineers didn't think it needed it, they wouldn't have put them on. Thus improving the profit in selling the car.
It sounds like the engine needs to be rebuilt, and all of the missing tin replaced.

I wouldn't want to set a price for someone else, but at the current bid, and due to the actual condition of the car, I would say go for it. I wouldn't give too much more for it with a bad engine and unknown tranny.
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drivingpenguin
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow. thanks phillip. that eases a few concerns. the rust was good for an norteast car. it had some typical patches - in the corners under the seats, and in the left wheel well. there was some body filler in the front bottom corner of the rear left fender. I think something was done to the front sheetmetal where the tire goes - it's pretty banged up and it looks like there may have been a patch. the pans looked ok but i couldnt get under far enough to see if they were replacements.

it has a bunch of extra parts but also needs a few things, like engine tin and exhaust elbows. heat exchangers look pretty bad and the heat is entirely disconnected. the interior looks original and in decent shape (headliner is okay except for a hole and needs to be rehung in spots)

jcw said that his friend's 68 had "no rear motor mount"... the engine mounting scheme was a lot different from any of my 67s Wink it had a motor mount on the body on either side of the engine compartment and a bar going across that looked like it bolted on the front of the case (i think i read that's how they did it with IRS but i wasn't sure)

i'm struggling with trying to figure out a max bid.
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drivingpenguin
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cool Russ, thanks for the info! i think the covers were both on the tranny... i'll check some pictures and try to figure it out.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just threw up a view of the automatic differential.
http://classicvw.org/gallery/partsbook/Picture
I show that coverplate I was talking about. #18 is the only cover on an automatic. Unless it is #24 which is the govenor cover, which DONT MOVE THE CAR without that.
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Notched
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

*Most* 68s had swing axles, so your friend's would be different from this one.

I have a '68 Square that is swing, as are all of them that I've seen.
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Phillip Bradfield

Current stock: '57 Panel Bus, '63 Rat Notch, '64 Baja, '66 Variant, '67 Convertible Ghia, '68 Squareback, '69 Squareback, '69 Fastback

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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Notched wrote:
*Most* 68s had swing axles, so your friend's would be different from this one.

I have a '68 Square that is swing, as are all of them that I've seen.


All the automatics were IRS. They had to be, because the trans and differential and not symetrical. Even the IRS axles are 2 different lengths.
So if this IS a '68, and automatic, it would be IRS.
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drivingpenguin
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow. where the hell do you guys get awesome photos like this? it wasn't 18 or 24.

i think mine may be a case of a little info is dangerous. it looks from the diagram like the openings i saw are normal? see where the #9 stud is? well it looks like that area is where the opening was, and i could see the flywheel through that opening. and see the slits on the top (by the #6 washer's dashed lines?) i could see the flywheel through that as well. maybe it's normal?
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drivingpenguin wrote:
wow. where the hell do you guys get awesome photos like this? it wasn't 18 or 24.

i think mine may be a case of a little info is dangerous. it looks from the diagram like the openings i saw are normal? see where the #9 stud is? well it looks like that area is where the opening was, and i could see the flywheel through that opening. and see the slits on the top (by the #6 washer's dashed lines?) i could see the flywheel through that as well. maybe it's normal?

yeah, that is normal. If you could have seen it, there are vanes on the torque converter, that are the cooling for the transmission. Those big openings are for cooling air.
Don't stick your fingers in there while the engine is running. Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those books can still be found. Some of mine are from working at the dealers. Others I have aquired on Ebay, or bought from various people. I need to watch the web space on my site, as I am limited to hard drive space. My son owns the server, but we are limited to the hard drive space we have. The server serves 6 different family web sites, and I can't be the hog.
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drivingpenguin
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

see all the good crap you can learn in a day?? Smile i didn't even think those would be vents to cool the tranny. good stuff!

i'll check to see what the space/bandwidth limits on my site are http://www.stinkysam.com. maybe we can store some images there. right now all i've got is some rusty notch pictures, a database of my type3 parts, and some family junk.
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