New fender

[73resto]

I want to paint my new fender.
do i have to sand the shipping paint off down to bare metall or can i scuff it and then prime it??

I was told i could scuff it but i don't know what that paint is or if it will hold other paints

[Major Woody]

If it's that thin black crap, remove it.

[bmtx]

It doesn't nessicarly have to be removed. Its a corrosion primer that can be painted over. You could sand it with 320da, get the imperfections out, scuff it with a scotchbrite pad and paint it. Most paint and body shops would go this way. If you want a show quality job, remove it, etch, prime, ect.

[Slowlow]

BMTX is right, I own a body shop and that would be our exact method.
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[73resto]

thanks.
I have 3 fenders like that and one of those 4 new ones is covered in red primer. is that primer selfetching primer? .

so if i do d.a. it ( the black fender) and scuff it , i just need to spray it with my high build primer surfacer and forget the self etching primer . or do i need to put that down also.

[happy hoppy]

if you don't know what it is, get rid of it!
it might come back to bite you!
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not necessarily in that order.

[bmtx]

You can spray the primer over it without the etch. The etch is for bare metal substrates.

[73resto]

There is small surfice rust under the black factory paint coat. So i will be taking all the fenders down to bare metal. And bodoing the small dings. Then i will selfetch prime everything. Will this primer pick up the bondo or not stick to the bondo?

[bmtx]

Its okay to spray the etch over filler.

[Major Woody]

Wash primer should be kept away from fillers to the extent reasonably possible. Epoxy primer may be applied either over or under fillers. Surfacer goes over the top of the fillers and is sanded. Sealer, not always used, goes over the surfacer immediately prior to application of the finish coats.

You need to treat that rust with metal ready, picklex or something else before you bodywork over it.

This is all off the PPG data sheets, that is the only line of products I am familar with.

All you folks who were telling 73resto not to worry about leaving the crap primer on there, now you can see why it needs to come off. You're relying on the workers in the mexican or brazilan factory to have stored the raw sheetmetal and finished product in proper conditions to prevent the formation of micro rust prior to application of their primer. How good do you think that Mexican primer is? Considering how much a decent paint job costs to redo, I think a couple hours with a DA and a rotary brush getting most of that primer off would be a no-brainer.