Hurst Shifter rebuild

jan72 · Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 1:39 pm Post subject:

...And the answer is: you can fix it with 4 pieces of fuel hose.
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glandnut · Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:37 pm Post subject:

jan72 · Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:36 am Post subject:

Well, that should work, with a lot of layers. The cover i got was at least 6mm larger in diagonal. The ball off the empi one seemed to fit well, in fact there was some play. The chinese pins were also no-springy Smile

dead metal, compared to the original ones and they wanted to get out of there. The chrome on the ball started to go also, after one month of use, with no dirt getting in there and plenty of graphite grease. Not a real rebuild... I wonder what are the guys that rebuild Hurst shifters using, i guess they're not using empi parts.
Anyway, the feel of this kind of shifter is unique, a LOT better than the stock one. The sticker showing the shift pattern would be nice...
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youngnstudly · Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 11:11 pm Post subject:

Okay, I've searched numerous posts and can't find the answer I am looking for. Does anyone know how much space should be between the shift ball on the bottom of the shaft and the reverse lockout disc (just above the ball)? I want to make sure I bend the cable to the correct length so the reverse lockout works properly. For the record, the shifter I assembled came in pieces from Jeff (glandnut) and I didn't get a cable with it. He did a favor for me and sent the parts I needed to build this shifter (thanks again Jeff) so it's not like I had a working shifter to compare to. Right now my lower disc hits the bottom of the cage, so I know it needs to come up some for the shifter to operate. Any pics with measurements (or just the measurement) would be greatly appreciated.

Andy
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youngnstudly · Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:38 pm Post subject:

I found out that the correct distance (that I needed in my last post) is 1-1/4" from the top of the disc to the bottom of the shifter ball, while the lockout lever is in the rested position. Just thought I would pass the information along since I didn't see it posted anywhere.

Andy
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glandnut · Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 10:13 pm Post subject:

Sorry Andy, I spaced and forgot to reply to your email.

Also, another way is set the collar height to match the black oxide that is generally worn away from the lower shaft in a perfect localized area. There will be a definite "edge" where the collar was once riding and wore the oxide. The height is different for very shifter and not exact. The key is to set the cable length so the edge of the collar normally rides against the reverse lockout lip that is tacked to the inside bottom plate of the cage. When the trigger is pulled, it compresses the lower shaft spring, lifts the collar, and rises above and over that lip allowing reverse.

For this reason, never buy a Hurst that is missing the lower cage plate unless you have a complete donor cage because it is basically a useless shifter. It will bolt in like everything is great. If you actually tried to drive with it, you would come out of first and go to find second at 20 mph one day and land right into reverse instead. Not good.
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bpritchert87 · Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:34 am Post subject:

i bought a curved copper shifter for $50 and i was wondering what i can do to restore the original copper finish....

what have others used to get that like new look??

i also wanted to know where i can buy a new plastic cover and rubber boot for mine since they are missing...

i seen that moore and pacific customs has some for the empi version replacement boots and plastic covers but i want quality over price...
any idea where i can buy them?

Thanks, Bpritchert87
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bpritchert87 · Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:59 am Post subject:

last night i started to clean it up a bit using a scotch pad and a little bit of metal polish... starting to look pretty good in some areas... but up by the trigger ring area the plating is gone..

im thinking about the following options...

1) tear it apart and get it all replated...

2) buy some copper spray paint and put a light coat over it...

3) have it power coated black like i a few i have seen...

btw i cant seem to get the wooden ball off.. any tricks it just should twist off right after some force....
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Bruce · Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 11:48 pm Post subject:

Whatever you try to do to the original finish will never look the same as original. It was a combination of copper plating and paint.

The wood ball has a metal threaded insert. It was common that people would overtighten it, causing the metal insert to spin in the wood ball. That's why yours just spins. I was able to get one off by shoving a piece of steel wire up between the shifter and the ID of the knob to try and jamb the threaded insert. It did work. Once I had it off, I poured in the Loctite around the outside of the threaded insert.
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bpritchert87 · Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:44 am Post subject:

glandnut · Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:31 pm Post subject:

Just find someone that specializes in copper plating baby shoes and you're golden.
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Bruce · Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:39 pm Post subject:

Consider giving it a clear coat after you touch up the copper with paint.
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bpritchert87 · Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 6:00 am Post subject:

already considered adding a clear coat Laughing

i know this prob. isn't the most prefect way but i think i will be happy with the results... im not much a of a "real" vintage/purist anyhow... although i can respect those that prefer to go that route...

i have a dune buggy anyhow so how "purist" can i be lol

ill have to post some pictures of the results.. i really didn't take any before pictures tho...

thanks guys!
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bugjuice82 · Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:02 am Post subject:

Just picked up a straight chrome Hurst with a red base cover. I haven't seen one red base cover in this whole post, or any others. Rare or wrong?
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Bruce · Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 11:58 pm Post subject:

Painted?
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wardvwracer · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 1:00 pm Post subject: Hurst Shifters

Recently I acquired my first Hurst shifter. Its a curved copper version with the wood ball. I found this thread and learned a lot - thanks everyone!

I'm presently (carefully) trying to restore the finish a bit. Up near the ball its a tad "patina'd". I heard Brasso might work. Any thoughts?

This shifter will be going into a '62 old-school Cal-Look project.
Wink

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Bruce · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 1:38 pm Post subject:

Is that area up by the ball grey in colour? If so, that's the bare pot metal. Brasso isn't going to bring it back.
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wardvwracer · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 5:53 pm Post subject:

Bruce · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 11:11 pm Post subject:

clean it very carefully. Start with something more gentle than your brasso.
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catbox · Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 1:41 pm Post subject:

If you have a shifter that is missing the bottom plate what can you do to replace it?

Is scavanging from an EMPI clone the best way?

Thanks for the help...
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Hurst Shifter rebuild
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