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Auto Trans Problem
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 3:01 pm    Post subject: Auto Trans Problem Reply with quote

Just got through dumping a significant amount of change into a 1776 for a recently purchased 1971 Fastback.

Only to find the Auto Transmission is AFU.

Anyone recently had an Auto Rebuilt?
Looking for ROM Cost and possible problems to watch out for.

Will work up a post on the motor for those who care.

RMS
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Air_Cooled_Nut
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is "AFU" and "ROM Cost"?

We just found a tranny shop here in Portland and they have a tech fresh from Mexico who know's the air-cooled VW trannies! He made some adjustments to my automatic and it shifts soooo much better now Smile If you're willing to have it fixed out of state then contact http://www.theddb.com/
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Barter_Builder
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=845967&highlight=#845967
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

automatic_squareback wrote:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=845967&highlight=#845967


Jim Parker at Mitchell Transmission has been building T-3 automatics since 1968-69 when they first came out. He is the one that taught me. Over 40 years.
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All
Thanks for the feedback.

AFU = All F@#$'d Up
ROM = Rough Order of Magnitude (round to the nearest hundred)

RMS
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SquareTone
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ROM:
rebuild kit ~$60
Bentley Book - you already have, right?
ATF ~$5

Seriously, I never worked on an AT before. This one was a POC (piece o' cake). Took me one evening to drop it, a day and a half to clean the workbench Rolling Eyes , about 2 hrs to do the actual rebuild. I could have easily done the whole thing on a Saturday if I had everything ready.

Bentley spells it all out really well. I had zero surprises, and it worked great when I was done.

Tony


Last edited by SquareTone on Thu Jul 07, 2005 11:59 am; edited 1 time in total
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raru
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

damn, that's a good price. one of our members had theirs rebuilt for about $800... and that's taking it out of the car for them. Shocked
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got the bentley book, but there is something about an Auto Trans that scares the be-jesus out of me. I'm afraid that cleaning my workbench would take me a year too.

My local quote was $800-$1000.

Haven't quite decided what to do.

Thanks for the input
RMS
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Barter_Builder
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I once had mine rebuild from a reputable vw shop in Irving, Tx. It still would not shift after rebuild. Make sure whoever you decide to build it for you knows about this tranny. JMO.
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

automatic_squareback wrote:
I once had mine rebuild from a reputable vw shop in Irving, Tx. It still would not shift after rebuild. Make sure whoever you decide to build it for you knows about this tranny. JMO.

Make sure the builder has a Bentley.
And if you do it yourself, do it operating room clean. A litlle grit in the valve body can screw everything up.
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine is back out, Trans is at a local shop (recommended by a number of VW folks here in CoS). Quote $800-$1000. OUCH ! !

Will post results next week.

Thanks for all the input

RMS
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well $800 - $1000 turned into $1300. Double OUCH

Trans is in, Motor is in but it seems the motor (1776, dual 40s)
is not developing enough vacuum for it to shift properly.

Vacuum source is manifold vacuum (4 ports drilled and tapped that feed into 1 tube that goes back to the trans vacuum module)

Anyone have a good idea on how to get around this problem.

thanks
RMS
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

YOu might need to adjust the vacuum modulator valve on the trans for your carb set up. Danial Baum has a factory dual port carbed engine coupled with his T-3 It has one balance pipe between the 2 sides of the engine, that has a "T" to the modulator valve.
He shows some pictures of it with the engine out on his web site.
http://www.type34.info
He is putting a torque convert and seals in his right now.
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Barter_Builder
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I had my dual 40's on my 1641, it was tapped once on the passenger side manifold with no shifting problems.
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ

From the pic's it looks like I have a similar set up.

I bought the T3 kit from CB performance. The manifolds go down single tube for each carb bowl. SO, a port was drilled and tapped near the base of each manifold tube. Those "T" in together on each side, then they "T" into one line that goes back to the vac modulator.

The trans shop adjusted the vac modulator after the engine was installed. (This is word of mouth from my mechanic) The trans shop said the engine still wasn't developing enough vacuum. It's at 5" and I guess the vac modulator needs 8". I guess the trans shop couldn't adjust out the vac modulator to compensate for the low vacuum.

Will work now to tune the carbs to maximize the manifold vacuum. Perhaps that will help.

thanks for the info
RMS
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Auto-Square

Currently I'm set up pulling from both sides.

After I tune the carbs for max vac I'll try plugging the driverside off and pulling only from the pass side manifold

thanks
RMS
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

COFBack wrote:
Russ

From the pic's it looks like I have a similar set up.

I bought the T3 kit from CB performance. The manifolds go down single tube for each carb bowl. SO, a port was drilled and tapped near the base of each manifold tube. Those "T" in together on each side, then they "T" into one line that goes back to the vac modulator.

The trans shop adjusted the vac modulator after the engine was installed. (This is word of mouth from my mechanic) The trans shop said the engine still wasn't developing enough vacuum. It's at 5" and I guess the vac modulator needs 8". I guess the trans shop couldn't adjust out the vac modulator to compensate for the low vacuum.

Will work now to tune the carbs to maximize the manifold vacuum. Perhaps that will help.

thanks for the info
RMS

What cam are you running?? Stock?? That could be your problem. You don't want too wild a cam with an automatic.
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Phatusatus
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you mean by not shifting properly? Does it go through all the gears or only one or two ( i.e. 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd or 1st to 3rd)? Take a long time to shift?
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ and Phat

The CAM is a 110 and to honest I can't describe the way it drives from first had cause the car is still at the engine builder.

Going to pick it up today. He has experimented with carb tuning but says it's not "exactly right". Will give it a good spin today and be able to explain the problem better.

I'm just happy it's ready. It's been since March.

thanks
rms
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, Now that I've had a chance to do some driving.

Engine: 1776, Dual EMPI 40, CB manifold/linkage kit, MOFOCO 040 heads, Hydraulic lifters, 009 w/ compufire, 4 into 1 header, dual QP.

Aside from the enormous hesitation off idle (which new venturis and a rebalance is "supposed" to fix week after next when they arrive), the car accelerates through first ok, shifts hard into second then won't shift into third without removing your foot from the pedal. Then shifts hard into third.

Kickdown works a little too well. This seems like an adjustment of the kickdown switch, shouldn't be a big deal.

On deceleration the trans downshifts very hard to second and then to first.

The trans shop hooked up a vacuum booster for a test drive and says it shifted nicely, so it seems that the current setup is not developing the 8-10 inches of vacuum needed for smooth and proper shifting. Engine builder says new venturis and retune should take care of all it.

We'll see. Will post results. I will say it's nice to have her home and will put a few miles on her over the next week or so to break the motor in a bit more.

Took her for a spin, didn't have any problem holding 60-65 heading up from Colorado Springs (6k ft) to Monument Pass (about 7.5K ft). Comfortable drive between 65-70 on the flats. Not quite as much poop as I expected at slow speeds (even after you get by the hesitation) but hopefully getting the carbs squared away will help this.

Any thoughts?

thanks
RMS
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