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lowfatbug
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2004
Posts: 56
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 Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 9:03 pm Post subject: NOS screw type brake and oil senders |
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how hard are they to come up with and what are they worth?
Thanks for the help
Billy |
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RareAir
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Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 14577
Location: 18 miles North of the border
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| Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 9:18 pm Post subject: |
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NOS versions in the Hella or Bosch boxes come up all the time. Asking price is usually in the $15-$30 range. If it's in the Blue VW box, then prices climb to the $50-$75 range.
The oil sender with adjustable pressure screw commands more $$$ than the preset pressure variety.
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lowfatbug
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2004
Posts: 56
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| Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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what about ROKA?
on the very top of them they say "MESSMER RADOLFZELL" |
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Rhodrich
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Joined: December 27, 2001
Posts: 130
Location: London, UK
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| Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 9:06 am Post subject: |
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Sorry to drag this thread up, but I was wondering what the correct way to adjust the adjustable pressure screw was?
My oil light flickers on idle after a long run, but the engine (industrial 30hp with very few miles on it) appears to be in great shape, with no end float. I'd like to be certain though, and don't want to just adjust the oil pressure warning light out blindly. |
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johnshenry 
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Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9364
Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 9:58 am Post subject: |
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I wouldn't adjust it, flicker at idle when hot is normal, the owners manuals even say so.
Also, you at least know that the switch is working when it flickers. I am having a tough tome trying to find one that works. I have a small box of supposed NOS oil press switches with the adjustment and so far out of 3, none work.
If I were to adjust the setting, I'd rig an air pressure set up with a guage so I knew what I was setting it at...
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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DDub
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Joined: January 06, 2005
Posts: 307
Location: central pa.
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| Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:05 pm Post subject: pressure |
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| Or with a T and a real gauge on the engine. |
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9364
Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:13 pm Post subject: Re: pressure |
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| DDub wrote: |
| Or with a T and a real gauge on the engine. |
Yeah, better yet actually......
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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nlorntson
Crazy VW Lady
Joined: March 13, 2004
Posts: 3783
Location: Twin Cities, MN
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| Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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| johnshenry wrote: |
| I am having a tough tome trying to find one that works. I have a small box of supposed NOS oil press switches with the adjustment and so far out of 3, none work. |
Is there a way to test these electrically? Is it simply a continuity check between the screw and the threaded part that screws into the block? |
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9364
Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:38 am Post subject: |
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| nlorntson wrote: |
| johnshenry wrote: |
| I am having a tough tome trying to find one that works. I have a small box of supposed NOS oil press switches with the adjustment and so far out of 3, none work. |
Is there a way to test these electrically? Is it simply a continuity check between the screw and the threaded part that screws into the block? |
Yes, it should short the term to the sensor body when off. Wouldn't be too hard to build a test jig and use compressed air and a gauge to set it up. I think there is something weird about that case bore thread though, I know it is a taper, but I think on the very early cases it's an odd size. Anyone know?
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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hazetguy
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Joined: April 06, 2001
Posts: 10773
Location: iT StiNgeD iTseLf tO dEAd
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| Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:37 am Post subject: |
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i think the early style is a 12mm thread, the later a 10mm.
is it mentioned in the progressive refinements?
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Sunroof53
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Joined: October 22, 2007
Posts: 301
Location: UK
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| Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 10:59 am Post subject: Pressure |
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| Funny this should come up as i need one to.I am having to use a later spade terminal type .I took one apart and its a job to see what goes wrong with them.My conclusion was that the rubber diaphram either leaks or goes stiff.One of mine leaks and others i have are open circuit with no pressure. |
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9364
Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 11:45 am Post subject: |
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Most I have seen fail open circuit. I have tried spraying carb cleaner in the orifice trying to clean them out, but not luck...
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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nlorntson
Crazy VW Lady
Joined: March 13, 2004
Posts: 3783
Location: Twin Cities, MN
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| Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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OK, then for us electrical dummies, if I set my multimeter to Ohms (continuity) setting, put black on the threads and red on the screw there should be current passing betwen the probes.
If I was able to apply pressure in the switch via the the threaded end opening whilst testing in the same way, there should be NO current passing between the probes, right?
Sorry for being such a electrical nube. 
Nancy |
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hazetguy
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| Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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| nlorntson wrote: |
OK, then for us electrical dummies, if I set my multimeter to Ohms (continuity) setting, put black on the threads and red on the screw there should be current passing betwen the probes.
If I was able to apply pressure in the switch via the the threaded end opening whilst testing in the same way, there should be NO current passing between the probes, right?
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that is correct. the switch, when the engine is off (or running at low enough pressure), acts as a ground contact for the dash light. the oil pressure inside the switch breaks that contact, eliminating the ground, therefore the light does not light up.
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nlorntson
Crazy VW Lady
Joined: March 13, 2004
Posts: 3783
Location: Twin Cities, MN
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| Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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| johnshenry wrote: |
| Most I have seen fail open circuit. I have tried spraying carb cleaner in the orifice trying to clean them out, but not luck... |
Sadly both the used ones I have failed the open circut also 
The two I had were both from 25 hp engines, one was an 1949 aluminum block and the other a later remanufactured magnesium block cast in 1956. The threads are identical both have the VW stamp and the adjustment screw.
One was date coded 3-59 and made by Stutgart Motometer and the other 10-54 but made by Auto-Elektrick Radolfzell D.R.P
Now the hunt to find a good one. Based on the comments about brand new ones testing bad, can anyone recommend a trustworthy source?
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24764
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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| johnshenry wrote: |
| Wouldn't be too hard to build a test jig and use compressed air and a gauge to set it up. I think there is something weird about that case bore thread though, I know it is a taper, but I think on the very early cases it's an odd size. Anyone know? |
Try VW662/2 here:
http://www.oacdp.org/tools.html
Lots of other must see stuff there and in the main webpage :
http://www.oacdp.org/
Our copy of blueprint 662 showing a 1950 25 HP engine shows M 12 x 1.5 for 36 HP and earlier and M 10 x 1 for Bastard 36 and later engines.
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Harris
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Joined: June 11, 2004
Posts: 1317
Location: Texas
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| Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:48 am Post subject: NOS Screw Type |
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Eric&Barb Wrote;
| Quote: |
| Our copy of blueprint 662 showing a 1950 25 HP engine shows M 12 x 1.5 for 36 HP and earlier and M 10 x 1 for Bastard 36 and later engines |
I haven't gone through Progressive Refinement completely, but I've look everywhere else. Are there instructions and/or cautions(over tightening)on installing the tapered oil pressure switch from VW? |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
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Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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Workshop Manual Volkswagen Transporter, section E-10, page 6, "To avoid damaging the thread do not use undue force when tightening the switch".
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9364
Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, don't overtighten. I snapped one off on my '50s engine and was luck enough to be able to rescue it with an EZ-Out. And I think that was the only time in 30 years of wrenching on car that an EZ-Out actually worked.
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John Henry
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'56 Single Cab |
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9364
Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Oh wait a minute. It didn't work. Look close at the pics, I ended up deep slotting it with a tiny dremel bit and getting it out with a screwdriver. You can see I went right out to the threads with the slot.
Somewhere in here I posted a thread about the ordeal...
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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