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BALL JOINT
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Judd's68
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:01 pm    Post subject: BALL JOINT Reply with quote

I lubed my 68's front axle this morning. woah! that thing was bone dry. looks like the previous owner did not bother with this. Anyway, looking around, I saw that the rubber of the driver side ball joints are already torn. How hard is it to replace these? Will I need special tools? Tips? Help!!
Thanks,
judd Very Happy
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the boot is torn, but the joint is OK, just replace the boot.

If the ball joint needs to be replaced, you need a ball joint press.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Judd's68
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Glenn"]If the boot is torn, but the joint is OK, just replace the boot.

If the ball joint needs to be replaced, you need a ball joint press.[/quote]

Thanks for a quick response. Not to sound dumb, how do I know if the ball joint is still good? Would you recommend just replacing it anyway?

If I have to replace the ball joints, where can I buy this ball joint press?

Thanks again!
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jack the car up so the wheel is off the ground. Grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Rock the wheel and look if you see movement at the upper and lower ball joints.

That specific tool was made by OTC. They still make a similar one, but you can't get the the Type 1 specific fixtures. You'll need to find someone local that has the tool or buy reconditioned trailing arms with new ball joints installed.
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Judd's68
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to keep buggin you Glenn but I want to get this done and done right! It's my daily driver and I have my kids with me in the morning.

I'll jack it later and see if there is wheel play. If there is no play, do I put grease inside the ball joint before I put on the boots?

If you say replace the trailing arm, how hard is this to replace? I have some mechanical experience and would like to do this myself so I'm not worried about getting my hands dirty.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's a daily driver you might want to let a pro do it.

Personally... when i doubt i'd replace the joint. Butthat's easy for me to say cause I have the tools and done it before.

Changing the trailing arms is not hard, but does require taking the frontend apart. And afterwards you'll need a frontend alignment.

Find a good mechanic and just let him do it.
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Judd's68
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, I might just do that. Thanks for your time Glenn.
Judd
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brice
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took my control arms to a shop where they decided to use an impact hammer/chisel to remove the old ball joints. They seemed to catch it on an edge and manage to get both of them out w/o scratching the housing. They did the same with the bushings... go figure? Smile

~ Brice
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

brice wrote:
I took my control arms to a shop where they decided to use an impact hammer/chisel to remove the old ball joints. They seemed to catch it on an edge and manage to get both of them out w/o scratching the housing. They did the same with the bushings... go figure? Smile

~ Brice


Sounds like you are referring to Super beetle ( control arms/bushings) not the regular Bug 4 ball joint/upper/lower trailing arms type front end.
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vicsvw
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 9:04 pm    Post subject: Cheap and Easy to remove Reply with quote

Cheap and Easy to remove without any special tools -> Ball Joint Removing <> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/qa_balljointrem.htm
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Cheap and Easy to remove Reply with quote

vicsvw wrote:
Cheap and Easy to remove without any special tools -> Ball Joint Removing <> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/qa_balljointrem.htm


Then any local shop can press the new one in if you don't have access to a press.

Yeah... so removing them is only half the battle... and most of these guys out here asking about how to do ball joints probably don't have welders in the ol 2 car suburban garage. Confused
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
If the boot is torn, but the joint is OK, just replace the boot.

If the ball joint needs to be replaced, you need a ball joint press.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And that tool also had the adapters that would do the super beetle inner bushings.
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execk2
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I replaced my beam and I bought new torsion bars with ball joints. Why not just get new ones? They just bolt right onto the torsion leaves then you pry it up to the spindle and your done. They cost about $40.00 each from CIP. No wheel alignment required since you aren't touching the tie-rods.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

execk2 wrote:
When I replaced my beam and I bought new torsion bars with ball joints. Why not just get new ones? They just bolt right onto the torsion leaves then you pry it up to the spindle and your done. They cost about $40.00 each from CIP. No wheel alignment required since you aren't touching the tie-rods.


If you replace ball joints/ whole trailing arms etc. or dissasemble the spindles and disturb the eccentric nut position you WILL need to have the alignment checked/adjusted.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 8:28 am    Post subject: Ball Joints Reply with quote

Ball Joints run just $12.95 and as keifernet said you will need to have the front end checked. If you mark the location of #46 and then replace the B.J. http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/0.suspension_ft.all.htm Every thing will be the same as before.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing I have found over the years is that even if you mark the eccentric and put it back where it was the front end may not "be aligned to spec"

Reason being ( so I figure) is that at some point an alignment may have been done with WORN/ near worn out ball joints. When you put in the new ones they are much tighter thus the alignment is not correct.

Alignments are cheaper than tires and front end parts... if you have a decent shop/tire store that offers a "lifetime" alignment you can get it checked out everytime you have to change any front end components and not have to pay each time.
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Judd's68
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your tips. I would definitely try to do this myself but I don't have the time right now. I have to garage her for now until I fix that ball joint. I am thinking of getting a trailing arm from the junkyard and experiment with this first. I am taking a good look at the ball joint press pic that Glenn posted. I am thinking of fabricating one... Well, still thinking about it. If I am successful...... and lucky, I'll let you guys know.
Thanks again!
Judd Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Judd's68 wrote:
I am taking a good look at the ball joint press pic that Glenn posted. I am thinking of fabricating one...
Judd Very Happy


OTC still makes the "C" clamp part. It's the fixtures that hold the ball joint that you can't get. And i'm sure they're not easy to make.
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