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Three-point seatbelt conversions?
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Keysar
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, that makes perfect sence, thanks for the imformation. But for now, I'm going to run my 2 points... Especially since they were given to me.
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spectre6000
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A stock-height bus, while nowhere near as safe as anything made in the past 20 years, still has a reasonable amount squishy stiffness before it gets to you. Lowered buses lose the benefits of the stiffness from the frame and are amputations waiting to happen if you hit something with your nose going more than 25 mph or so. You could probably come out fine in the leg department up to 35 mph with a stock ride height (unless you hit a jacked-up truck). Without seat belts, a 10 mph impact could give you a concussion if you blink before hand. Anything over, 45 mph say, and you're probably in pretty bad shape regardless. I've got 3-point retractable seat belts in my bus, and if properly installed and properly sourced (not all seat belts look correct in a bus) they almost look stock.
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dubstar
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sit in the driver's seat and lean all the way forward until your face and forehead touch the steering wheel...now imagine that happening with the added momentum of a 20 mph crash...
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krusher
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Capt'n Crusty wrote:
The previous thread on this topic (which I was in on) is here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61966&highlight=

I just finished an install two days ago for my trip to BB. What I did is weld a nut plate to the B-Pillar. The plate comes from a shop that I deal with for my race car and it's harnes system. The plates are $5 each. You have to drill/cut a hole for the nut to sit down into and then weld the plate up. I suck at welding and grinding, but I had to go ahead and do this thing no matter how it looks...

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I have to say that this is a terrible example of welding, if your going to weld in seatbelt mounts please learn how to weld before you attempt it.
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spectre6000
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

krusher wrote:
I have to say that this is a terrible example of welding, if your going to weld in seatbelt mounts please learn how to weld before you attempt it.


I'm sure he knows it's not perfect. Way to be an asshole. If you have to be critical, be constructive; i.e. (insert corrective method here for the next welding event in a way that doesn't sound so douchey).
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

spectre6000 wrote:
krusher wrote:
I have to say that this is a terrible example of welding, if your going to weld in seatbelt mounts please learn how to weld before you attempt it.


I'm sure he knows it's not perfect. Way to be an asshole. If you have to be critical, be constructive; i.e. (insert corrective method here for the next welding event in a way that doesn't sound so douchey).


The truth is harsh. If you want constructive criticisim, goto the bay forum Wink

some constructive criticism - you only have to cut a "U" shape in the pillar and fold the metal enough to get the anchor plate in - then fold back the sheetmetal, then tack weld with two plug welds to hold the anchor plate in place, then weld the sheet metal backup, grind welds and paint.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anchor plate does not even need to be welded if on the inside of the pillar. Liquid nails or epoxy will do it. All you're trying to do is keep it from falling back down inside the pillar if you for some reason have to remove the seat belt mount in the future.

This is not a difficult improvement and it baffles me to see all the hackery.
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Magnus
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I could post what I did. It is something like Major Woody suggests.
Since I am changing the lower part of my b-pillars I had good access. Measured from another car the distance to where I wanted the bolt. Drilled three holes. One for the bolt, and two smaller on each side. Made the anchor plate my self with the nut from the mounting kit from WW.
When mounting I welded a small pin above the nut for holding the plate (trough the upper hole) when entering the bolt. Used a string through the center hole and through the nut and lifted it in to posision, tightened the bolt and welded it in place:
Mounting
And voila:
Finished
Of course it needs paint.
The lower mounts are still not sorted out.

Think it will look good!?

Regards, Magnus.
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jbbugs
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dubstar wrote:
sit in the driver's seat and lean all the way forward until your face and forehead touch the steering wheel...now imagine that happening with the added momentum of a 20 mph crash...


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30 mph crash
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Ollie W
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the job I did this summer. Added to the front and back seat of my DC. I made plates and welded a nut behind.
After painting, it doesn't look too bad.
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harrywt
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 6:21 am    Post subject: mounting the seat belts Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

How about pics of how the anchor point down under the seat by the toolbox is fabricated and/or attached? I have the manual pages but they are not clear enough.

thanks,
harry
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bill may
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jbbugs wrote:
dubstar wrote:
sit in the driver's seat and lean all the way forward until your face and forehead touch the steering wheel...now imagine that happening with the added momentum of a 20 mph crash...


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30 mph crash


a hurst from Heil Machine Co. could have helped prevent this tradgedy.
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OB Bus
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bill may wrote:
jbbugs wrote:
dubstar wrote:
sit in the driver's seat and lean all the way forward until your face and forehead touch the steering wheel...now imagine that happening with the added momentum of a 20 mph crash...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

30 mph crash

a hurst from Heil Machine Co. could have helped prevent this tradgedy.

But look how high the point of impact was -- a good 18 inches above the top of the stock over riders. I really don't think a Heil Machine Machine Hurst would have have made much of a difference.
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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dreadnotmusic wrote:

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Man, you guys that cut the access holes that far down had a LOT more luck than I did. I tackled this project today, cut the access hole down towards the bottom, ran a string (tied to a small nut for weight) down through the pillar, and then tied my nutplate to it and tried to pull it back up. No-Go for me. The stupid plate kept getting hung up around where the front door striker plate captive nut thingy is. Fiddled with it for probably an hour, and just couldn't get it to go. I was only using a piece of 1/8" steel 1 1/4" x 3", so I'm not sure why it wouldn't go, but it just wouldn't. Oh well, I ended up just welding that hole back up and moving on up the pillar for another hole. Never can have to much practice welding I suppose! Laughing

Anyways, just wanted to say thanks for all the information and pictures in this thread. I used the Andover belts, and they fit great.

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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice clean job, Fluxcap. Wish I had been able to get a gray retractor.
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On Sept. 6, 2009, in our club's deadsite forums...

I wrote:
Alright, took me long enough but finally got the 3-point seatbelts in the Dormy! Rolling Eyes

The passenger side didn't take long once I figured out a way to do it. The driver side took a little bit more for obvious reasons. I simply opened up (okay, I hacked it) a slot wide enough to slip a big phat washer in as well as the nut for the swivel point. Then while holding it with needle nose pliers, bolt it all up, then re-covered the slot so it can't be seen. Here's the finished 3rd point on the passenger side.

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The seats I have already had provision for the latch though I had to replace the ones that came with them with the matching ones for the belts.

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Here's the base point where the retractable part goes. You can do the same using big phat washers through the floor but mine, being a '65, already had a beefed up threaded point for belts.

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Did the passenger side yesterday in less than a couple of hours. This morning I looked at this picture for quite a while before coming up with an idea.

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The pivot point has to be fairly high above the shoulder and there just didn't seem to be enough room to do the same as for the other side. So then I figure if I hacked a slot at a lower spot so as to slip in the nut & washer, I'd have more room!?! However, I needed a way to bring the stuff up to where the hole would be. So first the nut was welded to the washer, then a wire welded to the washer would serve as a guide!!!

Welded washer/nut, forming the wire, and the welded wire:

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(Pay NO attention to the crappy welds^^^, I forgot to turn the gas on! Sad )


So then I haked in the slot and slid the nut/washer into place:

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Once covered up it looks as good as if it came with it!!! Razz

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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going through some old photos and thought I would upload and link a couple more pictures of the flap cut to fish the plate up into the top of the B pillar. The flap can be cut all the way down at the base of the pillar where the repair will not be noticeable even if it is not perfect.

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And here is the plate/nut in position behind the pillar, using the existing hole, prior to installation of the shoulder belt thingy. I have cleaned up the area since this photo was taken.

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DubStyle
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the slot trick posted earlier in the tread. I used .025" safety wire and fished it down the pillar to where I cut the slot. Pulled the nut plate to the hole, got the bolt started and done. I used 3/4"x2.5"x1/8" plate to weld the nut to.

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offshores
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty much sold on the Andover belts like Major Woody went with in his pics, but not sure what length I should order for a 66 walk through. Do I order the 2 1/2" door post extension or w/o door post extension? 85", 110", 125" length? Just want to see what others ordered so I can get it right the 1st time. Thanks
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brettsvw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This from their website.

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