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asetech08
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the info im looking into just buying and getting it re built. anyone have any spots in socal they can refer me too
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is Rancho in Fullerton, Der Transaxle Shop in Anaheim, KCR, plus many other shops in Southern California to pick from.
You could look in the feedback section for info what others have to say.
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gears
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mcmscott is a contributing member of Samba, and has plenty of experience. Having a direct connection to our community always helps, service-wise.
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9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting started on a 3rib swap into my baja. It's the transaxle with the guide sleeve. It doesn't have the 2 mounting tabs on top either. I guess thats a 72-74? I'm going to use the 10 degree mount kit. Before doing so, I plan on replacing all the seals. I also want to redo the vent so that I can run a hose up high.

I noticed that I have a broken stud. It's not the tail housing, but the next larger housing. I've had a tail housing off before, but I'm not familiar with anything past that. Can I remove this with realitive ease? Is it worth the trouble just to replace a stud?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What about the bell housing? I'm not so much concerned about replacing gaskets, but if it's not to big of a hassle, I might. Just wondering about the stud.

Also, are there any threads about adding a fitting for the vent?

Here is my 002
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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gears
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might help to show the broken stud for better input. Left hand drills are pretty useful, but there may be other tricks if we know which one.

The intermediate gasket replacement means partial disassembly of the trans .. not nearly as straightforward as it appears. Unless the gasket is damaged, it may not be necessary.
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the stud that is broken. Well, I think it's broken. Now that I think about it, maybe it's missing. I need to dig the hole out to see.

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What is the screw next to the stud for? It was backed out like that when I got it.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That wood screw is place where normally there is a aluminum plug. The passage is for parts that keep the trans from going into two gears at one time.
As for the broke stud? yes clean out the hole and see what is there. Replace if possible. It may or may not cause oil seepage depending on how it is mounted and used.
If you look and the before pages you can see where I have installed a different breather fitting in the nose cone. It is a 1/8NPT with either a 1/4in or 5/16in slip on for a hose.
Taking off the nose cone to drill and tap for fitting you can inspect to see if mainshaft bearing is moving and wearing into nose cone, and see if plastic ball in shift linkage is worn out (should be replaced with steel ball).
Installing a steel mainshaft thrust plate between gear carrier and nose cone will keep bearing from wearing into nose cone.
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Elrod Motorsports
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad this thread is for dummies, cause I feel like one right now. lol

What should I do about that screw? I assume it needs to be plugged? If so, can i just tap it for a threaded plug or set-screw?

Do you have any pictures of a shift ball in place?

And as for a vent, can I just tap the existing hole for a small plug as well or is there a better way to seal it up?

Thanks
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes where the screw is need to be plugged with something or oil will leak out. A finer thread screw or some kind of plug will work. Use some sealant on it.
The stock vent hole in the past I use a shorten 6mm screw like what used to hold sheet metal cooling system on VW engine. Now I just fill old hole with silicone and never had a leak yet.
The shift ball goes in the #44 part in the exploded view. The hockey stick slips into it and allow for the movement #44 has to make to be able to shift. I don't know if in previous pages there is a picture of it.
When I get time I try and get a picture of setup.
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I now realize where the ball goes. I was thinking of some sort of actual ball like a large bb or something. Thanks for aswering my questions. I'm gonna work on it more this weekend.
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got to work in this last night. I lucked out. There is not broken stud and the threads are there. All I need is a new stud. I inspected my tail housing surface where the bearing rides and it is flat, but there is some form of damage that seams odd. There are no marks on the bearing or near by that indicate wear.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I did find this there. Is this the type of piece someone would use to keep the bearing from damaging the tail housing?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The pin that the gear selector rides on it held in place by some wire. Is this how it should be?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like the trans has been apart sometime in its life. From the pictures, I can see that the gear carrier has been sleeved where the mainshaft bearing sets. This is the fix when the gear carrier wears (it made out of magnesium) machining and installing a aluminum sleeve to hold the bearing in place.
The thrust washer is something I have not seen before. It appears that the nosecone (shift housing) has been machined for the thrust washer to fit. What I use is a steel plate .040" thick that covers the whole area between the nosecone and gear carrier. It has cut out for clearing the linkage parts.
The inside of the ring area on nosecone shows signs of damage from previous mainshaft bearing moving or coming apart.
The safety wiring of the pin is something I never seen before. It make sense to keeping it in place when nosecone is removed, as the nosecone is what hold it in place. Once nosecone is installed there would be no need of it.

Something I do, and many others it to weld a piece of flat strap on one side of the U bracket that the pin set in. I use 1/8in thick by 1/2in wide strap. I seen the ears break of the bracket before.
What does the shift ball look like?
Make sure to use a good gear oil. I use oil made rated for hypoid use and at least a GL-5 rating to keep the Ring & Pinion from wearing out prematurely.
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jsturtlebuggy wrote:
What I use is a steel plate .040" thick that covers the whole area between the nosecone and gear carrier. It has cut out for clearing the linkage parts.


I'm not sure I want to use this nose cone with the funky shim so I pulled the nose cone of my spare transaxle. It seems much better, but it has 2 switches. One on the side and one on the back? What is the extra switch for and can I use it instead of the one I pictured?

Bugpack makes the plates. Is this what you use?

http://bugpack.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=323

Does my nose cone have to be milled to use one of these?

I might make some progress if I could get the old bushing out. I'm going to try a tap with punch and hammer.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes that is the thrust plate I use. There are other places that sell it too.
It is .040" thick. And the idea when they are being used in a Bus you are not wanting to change overall length for mounting purposes. Plus this allows for surfacing the nose cone face if the mainshaft bearing has worn into it.
I found I can get away without taking the .040" off the nose cone if it not needed. Trans will still fit in place and if you are installing it in Bug, Baja, or Buggy it really does not matter as the mounts can be shifted.

The extra switch on the nose cone is for engine distributor advance. Unless you were in 4th gear you would not get a vacuum signal to vacuum advance. This was for smog purposes, I think it was in 1973-74. I remember them on the California Buses. If it is that switch it would line up with the 3rd/4th gear shift rail.
The switch on the side is for the reverse lights. Some times there can be an interference problem with the frame on a Bug chassis.
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found that this hole that I thought had a broken stud, found no stud at all, then discovered there were threads won't hold a stud. I'm gonna have to tap it for something bigger. What would be better? helicoil for an 8m stud, or just tap it out for a 10mm?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also noticed what looked like a crack. I put just a little heat to it and nothing seeped or boiled out. I believe it is casting flaws as they are at both sides. Any thoughts?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes those are just from the casting of part on the gear carrier. Trans case parts sometimes have very rough edges all around them. I sliced fingers on some of them over the years. I get out my 4 1/2in grinder with a flap disc and go over them to get rid of some of the bad ones.

As for the stripped stud hole, try and drill it deeper and run a tap in it.
Over the years I had to fixed things many different ways until I could do it right. I even used wood screws for temporary fixes.
There no need to go as big as 10mm.
Even if you drilled all the way through it does not appear that you would go inside of case and cause a leak.
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sloboatnova
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good call. I found the bottom of the hole still had some good threads. I can check that off the list. But know I got a much more serious problem.

Pulled the bell housings and found these. AAHHHHH!!! The pic makes them look huge, but they are small. No bigger than 3/16"

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Being as I know this transaxle has been apart, what are the chances these were left behind?
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That does not look good. It looks like they are the teeth off a brass syncro ring.
Inside a Bus trans the only brass parts are the syncro rings.

Could they be part of thrust washer shown in earlier pictures?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i still dont understand, sorry. do you have a picture of what you did with your vent on the nose of the trans?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just like JSturtlebuggy, I tapped a 1/8 npt in the top next to the hole for the hockey stick. Be sure not to drill it right in front of the center mounting stud. Only tap it as deep as you need to for the fitting to bite. The fitting does not need to be sank all the way down into the hole. I got my fitting before tapping and intall it a few times as I tapped to get it where I wanted it.

To plug the original vent hole, I used a 6m self threading screw. (not self drilling. There is a difference.) I put it in from the inside for ease of installation, then cut the head off. It can't work itself out and it cant go in because of the metal behind it once nose cone is installed.
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Last edited by sloboatnova on Tue Nov 25, 2014 1:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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