Ignition system woes {Still Troubleshooting}

[Russ Wolfe]

the firing order wire locatiion depends on the dist. and how it is installed. As for replacing the plug wires, are they original? Read them with an ohm meter, and they should read about 1000-2000 ohms. This is for electrical noise suppresion. Replacing condensors when you do a tune up is kind of an old wives tale. I very rarely replace condensors, and then ususally those are cheap aftermarket ones that someone else has installed. If at all possible I try to use genuine Bosch ignition parts.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey

Gary: OK. Ima poop.

[Turbinepower]

But cylinder firing order is in fact 1-4-3-2?

I'm making sure that I have the distributor wired properly, trying to put the #1 plug wire at the mark on the distributor housing for cylinder #1 and going from there. The diagram~ish thing was for the engine itself, not the distributor. Sorry about the confusion?

I think the one I just put back on it was the original. Bosch, looks old enough, and its bracket was a slip-on type; the condensor slides down into the bracket, rather than the two being one unit. The bad one that I just took off, the one that had to be isolated, was a Bosch part.

The plug wires aren't original, I replaced them when I got the car; neither were the ones they replaced, which were rotted-out knockoff replacements. Not sure where I can find Bosch plug wires; I generally prefer to use Bosch parts myself. Keep originals with originals, and all that.

[OttovonEmden]

[Turbinepower]

Aha. Got it. And I found in the Bentley where firing order is, so I should be good to go.

[Turbinepower]

Mmmkay.

In theory, all the parts of the ignition system are functioning. Testing each plug wire when cranking showed that with the plugs I was installing I was indeed getting spark on all four cylinders. I have good, solid 12v each time the points open and an almost immediate drop down to 0v when they close.

Fuel pump is putting out good fuel pressure (I need to refill the tank, I'm running with dregs), and I know my points and contacts are all clean (I replaced the shoddy looking ones, bared to clean fresh wire.)

However, I get good turnover but still no sparking. I'd like to check my timing, but I have to do it statically and have no static timing light. Can I do it with the voltmeter?

[Russ Wolfe]

Yes, connect the voltmeter to the distributor terminal on the coil, just like a test light. When the points just open, the meter will jump to 12V, just like the test light would light.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey

Gary: OK. Ima poop.

[Turbinepower]

Alright. I've checked (Statically) the timing. Checked to make sure the distributor was oriented properly (It was).

Checked all the plugs again. Good, clean and gapped properly (.024"). Checked all the plug wires, 1k~ ohms all across the board. Checked the rotor again (5.5k ohms). Checked firing order, clockwise from #1 notch: 1-4-3-2. Checked it against a cylinder diagram from the back of the car.
3 1
4 2

Checked the fuel pump: seems like solid pressure. Put out a good 50ml of fuel into a bottle in a start attempt.

Checked the points: they're clean and gapped (.016"). I'm back to the original condensor. I have test spark from the coil cable to ground, and at a test plug grounded against the block.

On one start-up attempt, I misted a little gasoline down into the carburetor. Succeeded in getting a real impressive backfire when I turned the engine over. So at least one cylinder is firing.

Still turning over, but not starting. On to performing a full tune-up procedure?

[Russ Wolfe]

It sounds like your distributor is off a tooth or a 1/4 turn. When you think you are on TDC #1 at the distributor, check the valve lash on #1. You may have a distributor drive gear that is not installed properly.
When the timing marks on the pulley are lined up, the valves on #1 OR #3 should have play. Which ever one is free, the rotor should be pointing at that wire on the cap.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey

Gary: OK. Ima poop.

[Turbinepower]

Valve lash? Sorry, not quite sure how to check that... probably because I'm not quite sure what it is.

I understand how to adjust valves, and how they work/what they do, but I'm not quite up on the terminology. Sorry.

[tristessa]