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5 inch lift done my way
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David58bug
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 3:50 pm    Post subject: 5 inch lift done my way Reply with quote

I won't have any posts deleted I will delete them myself..

Last edited by David58bug on Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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vwclass11
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Vanhag wrote:
On a scale from 1-10 I see a class 11.

hotratz wrote:
I hold a level 2 certification in Tribology


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ellobo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Now thats thinking out the box, Dude
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hotratz
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any idea's for steering linkage? Very unique way of raising the body up.
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el loco kingo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whoa
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dr. awsome
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very much not my way of doing it but who knows this might be the way to do it 20 years from now and your just the first person to actually try it! Cool
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If what I see is correct you only have the top tube of the beam in your frame head, yes? If so what are you using to keep the beam from pivoting back? I have been wrong once before Shocked but I think that is a bad idea!
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el loco kingo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

USMCord1 wrote:
If what I see is correct you only have the top tube of the beam in your frame head, yes? If so what are you using to keep the beam from pivoting back? I have been wrong once before Shocked but I think that is a bad idea!

i didnt even notice that. but now that i do, it does look like a bad idea.
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David58bug
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:28 pm    Post subject: steering no problem Reply with quote

I won't have any posts deleted I will delete them myself.

Last edited by David58bug on Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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David58bug
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:37 pm    Post subject: Look again at the frame head Reply with quote

I welded two plates to the upper shock towers, and added a fake tube to mount to the upper frame head. So now the top part of the original beam is in the lower part of the frame head. I am going to take it back apart and make new shock towers. I just am using this as a pattern. This is a link pin bug. If you measure center to center of the tubes you have 5 inches. Doing it this way I won't be spending much money on the lift. I have a good back ground in front end alignment, as I learnt from my father. This should be as good as a stock front end. It should drive like a factory built bug.
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:39 pm    Post subject: Re: steering no problem Reply with quote

David58bug wrote:
I am going to use a rack and pinion unit and mount it below the pan the lower tube on the beam will protect it. That should take care of bump steering issues. Just think how high you could raise this up with Longer arms and adjusters. Right now I have 17 inches of ground clearence, not measuring the steering box that will come off.


Seeing that you are in GA, this will proably be a woods buggy, I am guessing. Well do me a favor, have somebody with a camera taking pictures as you land or try to climb up a rivine side. Hey I hope it works for you, I would really think more into it though.
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HamburgerBrad
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

your steering geometry will be off if you mount the rack on the bottom tube

from the front suspension thrad:
HamburgerBrad wrote:
do you think every trailing arm car has massive bump steer? you're probably imagining it as if the steering box/rack were perfetly in line with the mounting holes in the spindles. in fact, theyre always mounted forward of the mounting holes, and aft of the torsion tubes. take a look at where the top link pin goes through the spindle. now look at where the mounting hole is on the spindle. the mounting hole on the rack or box should be in the same position relative to the upper torsion tube. this allows the tie rods to swing in a conical shape throughout suspension travel. the trick is to get this to be a perfect cone and that will eliminate bump steer on a torsion arm suspension.


what would need to happen is for the rack to be mounted on the top tube, which you have apparently removed the option to do
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ellobo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry guys...But I think he's onto something here.
My first joke was going to be about steering angle stuff. But it can be easily overcome with a simple u-joint. Wink
If he just adds a crossmember under the forward bulkhead and brings a couple of tubes down to the lower beam.
He's got it made..... Laughing I think you're on to something....

Just like this....only one beam lower.....make it happen.

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Last edited by ellobo on Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:42 pm; edited 1 time in total
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The more you add the better the chance for a train wreck. Spend the time or the bucks turn the beam or raised spindles even longer arms. But hey we have to have something to talk about. Hope it works, really! Just think it is a long way to go about doing something that has several proven short cuts. Good Luck!
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David58bug
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 10:20 pm    Post subject: Thanks ellobo Reply with quote

I won't have any posts deleted I will delete them myself.

Last edited by David58bug on Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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ellobo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David,
Noooo, You don't need to remove the pan head......It's way too simple..... Rolling Eyes ...I'm already working on your idea...It's very much like I support the back side of my a-arm system.
Unfortunately, I don't have access to my drawing software right now to further some illustrations.....I'll pick it up again for you tomorrow....

Of course you're not going to get the desired travel that most of want. But, you will get the wheel clearance ( just like the bodylift stuff from the early days of T-mag and up-yers) without the body lift..... Very Happy

Class 11's will love you....... Wink
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Hollander
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 7:10 am    Post subject: rear lift idea Reply with quote

maybe this is an id for jour rear lift:


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hotratz
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

David, you have to realize that while you did raise the pan you haven't gained anything under the lower tube. This is what is going to stop your forward progress in a mud bog or even a rutted trail. You still have a plow up front. I know it's temporary but that steering box hanging down like that only worsens the plow effect. What is the clearance that you have under the lower tube now?
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hotratz
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

USMCord1 wrote:
If what I see is correct you only have the top tube of the beam in your frame head, yes? If so what are you using to keep the beam from pivoting back? I have been wrong once before Shocked but I think that is a bad idea!


He's got three tubes, The top two are tied into the frame head.
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vwclass11
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ellobo wrote:
Class 11's will love you....... Wink


No we wont, at least I wont. And Hotratz is right, that bottom tube is just begging to snag on something. Just my .02, later, Mitch.
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Vanhag wrote:
On a scale from 1-10 I see a class 11.

hotratz wrote:
I hold a level 2 certification in Tribology


http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/194538.jpg
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