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Clutches - what pressure plate with what throwout bearing
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7d4vdub
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drift-monkey wrote:
hi there guys im new to this forum and my dad has just got back into beach buggies and weve been trying to find out why the clutch when engaging makes a noise and ive read on this post that u cant use a early throwout baering with a 1600clutch and flywheel which he currently has in his vw, what would he have to change to allow him to still keep the new clutch and pressure plate he has but to still make the throwout bearing work without failure???
anyhelp appreciated , cheers


Buy a new bearing $18 cip1.com
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nosehairdreadlocks
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 4:01 am    Post subject: Oops Reply with quote

I actually made the mistake of putting an early style pressure plate with a late style t/o bearing. The motor went on but made a metal on metal squeak when I started the thing. Then I read this thread. Got informed. She's running smooth now! Thanks!
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Wilfredo R
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should the clutch pedal be just as high as the brake pedal or higher?
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They should be about the same.
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BrianHulud
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey guys im trying to put my new TO bearing in and cant figure out how the heck to get the clips on. I know where they are supposed to go into but i cant get them to spring open at all. Anyone have any tricks for getting the dang clips in?
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hpw
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wompninja wrote:
Any tricks for putting on the centering ring?


Or how to take it off? I see all the posts advising to remove the centering

ring, but not on HOW to do it. Do I need to remove the clutch from the

engine to remove the centering ring? I don't want to screw something

up never having done this before.

[img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/img]

Also I have the late style tranny with the collar, so I assume that this

collar (pictured) has to come off
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hpw
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And just for shits and giggles
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally would get the later style pressure plate and not use that early one with the collar removed. I have never had much luck with that.

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hpw
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
I personally would get the later style pressure plate and not use that early one with the collar removed. I have never had much luck with that.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


thanks keifernet, sumof-a-biatch, does this ever end? Every time I turn

around, I need something else. Would you be so kind as to recommend

what I need so that I don't have to do this again. Wish my builder would

have told me this.
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is Sachs brand, the OEM supplier.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-311-141-025-C

This one might be Sachs, it only says "German", and it's cheaper. The clutch and bearing photos in the same page clearly show "Sachs" so the plate is probably Sachs too.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=311141025CGR
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hpw
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:
This is Sachs brand, the OEM supplier.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-311-141-025-C


Thanks, This looks like the best one. So is this the one you would buy

if you where using my money Wink

Now if it will work with the Copperhead Cluch Disc that is already installed

on it?

When you start changing parts out from stock, does it ever open up whole

new can(s) of worms.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am just saying that I have tried the "remove the collar" from those earlier style ( spring type/non diaphram type) for use with the 71 and later trans and it never worked out. I pulled engines out several times trying to figure it out and gave up. Installed the correct stock PP ( like Mike posted) and never looked back.

Maybe your builder did not know you were using the later style trans?

I agree Sachs is just fine. German if you can get it but I have never had an issue with Sachs de Brasila either. I have had a few problems with some LUK and other no name brand PP's and parts.... but only once in awhile. ( kwality kontrol krap shoot)

Is this a stock engine? or what are the specs? why the use of the non stock disc?
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hpw
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Maybe your builder did not know you were using the later style trans?


I bought my tranny from him also, but in his defense, at different times.

I bought the tranny first then later the engine was sent to him for a rebuild

Quote:
Is this a stock engine? or what are the specs? why the use of the non stock disc?


The engine is only making 100hp and approx. 120 ft. lbs of torque.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought some outfit was making a stronger 1700 or higher version of the "diaphram" type PP nowdays but can't recall... anyone? Bruce???
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hpw wrote:
mnussbau wrote:
This is Sachs brand, the OEM supplier.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-311-141-025-C


Thanks, This looks like the best one. So is this the one you would buy

if you where using my money Wink

Actually, I bought this one http://www.peekperformance.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=487 for my convertible, it's been fine. It was Sachs brand and is significantly cheaper at Peek for some reason. Call them to confirm it's actually Sachs.
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tigatfo
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How far from the trans housing should the throw out bearing be? I installed a bowden tube in my buggy and I think that clutch cable is now to short. The bearing is about 2.5" to 3" from the housing.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
I am just saying that I have tried the "remove the collar" from those earlier style ( spring type/non diaphram type) for use with the 71 and later trans and it never worked out.


I've been using the earlier non-diaphragm type F&S pressure plate with the center collar removed with my 1835 in my 1971 Convertible for several years now, no issues, works fine. It was my used one, 1980s vintage, had a lot of miles on it previously with the 1835 in my '70 sedan. I did install a brand new spring clutch disc at that time however. Mine has the original transmission (never out), and original throw-out bearing.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:
keifernet wrote:
I am just saying that I have tried the "remove the collar" from those earlier style ( spring type/non diaphram type) for use with the 71 and later trans and it never worked out.


I've been using the earlier non-diaphragm type F&S pressure plate with the center collar removed with my 1835 in my 1971 Convertible for several years now, no issues, works fine. It was my used one, 1980s vintage, had a lot of miles on it previously with the 1835 in my '70 sedan. I did install a brand new spring clutch disc at that time however. Mine has the original transmission (never out), and original throw-out bearing.


Lucky you... Very Happy Wink I have not had any luck with that at all and as stated prefer the later model diaphragm type which is most common for the 71 and later style anyway. I have tried it with good used stock ones ( that worked with the collar on in the early set up) and with at least 3 "new" PP from vendors that were the HD type aftermarket.

Maybe there is something I don't know or over looked at the time but every time I tried it no matter how I adjusted the clutch I could never get it to engage correct and it would just grind. Pulled out engine swapped PP and BAM... worked fine. go figure Embarassed Laughing Shocked
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
Maybe there is something I don't know or over looked at the time but every time I tried it no matter how I adjusted the clutch I could never get it to engage correct and it would just grind.


I didn't do anything special at all. In fact, I had figured that I would just use the '71's stock original pressure plate (or purchase a brand new one)when I installed that engine from the '70 into the '71. But I have always liked the old-style PPs (don't exactly know why, and I'm not a clutch expert) and had good success with that F&S spring-type while in the '70, and read here on the Samba about pulling off the center ring (had never heard that before), so I tried it. So maybe it was just happenstance or luck.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:51 pm    Post subject: Pressure Plates Reply with quote

My question arises from the fact that I have the 73 trans ( with the two bolt mount that goes to the bottom of the pan instead of the hoop ) but the pressure plate and disc are from a dune buggy which had been built on a 66' pan and trans swing axle type. When I attached the 72' dual port 1600 to the 73 trans, the t-bearing fork arm seems to swing freely for about an inch and half to the front of the pan and stops with no abitlity to flex any more forward at all even with a small pipe slid over it. Any ideas ? The pressure plate had no ring on it .
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