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sealant for engine
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funagon
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Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 1308
Location: SLC, UT
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I skipped all of the above discussion. I've used Curiil-T on case halves and the big head nuts, it works great.
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1990 GL 7-passenger
2.2 liter WBX
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rustcity
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Joined: September 12, 2011
Posts: 1
Location: NW Indiana
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 11:30 am    Post subject: Engine sealant Reply with quote

Some info regarding GM VehicleCare "Assembly Adhesive", p/n 12346141, 1.9 oz.

Silicone formed-in-place gasket
* Oxime cure, (this is not the typical acetoxy cure that smells like vinegar).
* This cure system requires moisture, is non-corrosive, (unlike the acetoxy),
* It is intended for use with metal/ oil contact,
* It should not be used in contact with gasoline.
* Mdeium gray color, medium durometer,
* Dries to touch in 10 min in normal temp and humidity; 5 min final bonding; 24 hr for full cure,
* Oxygen sensor safe,
* Approximate retail cost, (Sep-06), $7.20/ tube + tax.
* Mfg in USA.
* Product replaced by larger tubes of sealant and is no longer available.
* Product in unopened metal sealed tube generally lasts far beyond the expiration date is kept cool; if quality is in doubt, check to ensure the tube is reasonably pliable and then squeeze some out; product should be lump-free and fully cure in 24 hrs. Testing can be accelerated by heating in an oven at 150 F with an open pan of water.
* Uncured product wipes easily with IPA and molded if needed using an ice cube.

Need to water proof or provide an electrical barrier? Try this oxime or an alcoxy cure silicone dispersed in trichlorethane or IPA and just dip the item in the solution or paint the solution onto the item. Results may be even better using acetoxy cure silicone, (same stuff as most 100% silicone tub caulk), but beware that the acetoxy may corrode metal parts, just as would vinegar).
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Can1
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Joined: December 24, 2016
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Location: Canada
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JWPATE wrote:
And now I have a tube of it , right here on the desk top. It is the GM vehicle care Assembly Adhesive number 1#12346141. The tube (about 1.9 ounces) tells little about it's makeup, other than that it contains siloxanes and silicones. Seems to be the same old song. The instructions for use, advise the final setup of parts must be done within five minutes and that the product will dry to the touch in about ten minutes. Again, seems like the product seems to be just another silicone sealant. Use it if you wish.
The price is consistant with other such goo. Is it better than the German silicone tubes that come within every overhaul gasket kit? Not likely. Seems to be the same approach to sealant.
If you want to start a really oil-leak dry, overhaul on one of these aluminum engines, I again recomment that you seal all flanges with LOCTITE 518. It will cost you about double the price of either the German C2 or the Gm adhesive, but in either case the difference is small change, since a two ounce tube is all you will need. In the case of Loctite 518, it is specially suited for aluminum parts, will allow all the time you need since it is anaerobic and sets up only in the presence of metal with an absence of O2. Forget the others, I have years now of observing how good 518 performs under high temp. conditions. Never a leak. Not a drop. You are talking about perhaps $12 for an 1.5 oz. tube of the GM goop or, say $18 for Loctite 518. You pay your money and you take your chances. In this case the choice is easy. If you are thinking about the GM silicone procuct, I strongly suggest that you stick with the German sealants which are part of every gasker kit.
Best regards,
James



GM 1052942 gasket maker is Loctite 518.
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