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johnshenry Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The decklid is complete and now media blasted.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boy shure do purdy werk!
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
Spanish Flea wrote:
Great work there John!!

Would it be possible to scan the pattern for the Bus Bar.
Mine is broken and soldered back together Confused

Spanish Flea


Yeah, good idea. I'll scan the original bus bar, take some measurements and post here. They are very often broken or missing on old pods. Kind of silly overkill too, as the current is only for the ignition and ignition switched circuits, you could much more easily accomplish the same thing with a piece of nominal gauge wire.

But it is one of those "split details" we all know and love....


Here ya go, as promised :

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another oval 'vert decklid that I am converting to a split one. I have not modified the lic. light opening yet.

On this one instead of modifying the hinge brace plate, I removed it (the torn one) and replaced it with one from an earlier decklid with the triangle spring plate and other correct early decklid features.

I found it interesting that the brace is only spotwelded to top flange of the lid, the bottom flange of the hinge brace plate has no spotwelds. Also, I found it interesting that there was no trace of paint/primer behind this donor brace plate. Here, I have sprayed a weld-through primer on the mating surfaces before welding it on.

Like my previous decklid mod, the little tab on the bottom center of the brace plate had to be extended. This donor plate was not an early/early lid, it had all the split features but had the short center tab.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
A clacker semaphore I refurbed for someone. I made an adapter with a dash bulb at the bottom that mimics the dash bulb. Interesting that the arm bulb does not flash, but the dash bulb does.

I have another set I am restoring and will post pics of the pin and contact setup, it is pretty complex for that era.



{Dee Snyder's "House of Hair" was on the radio and I was enjoying some loud music....}



Link


As promised, here are some pics of the contact mechanism on the "clacker" semaphores. This is my own set and I restored them. You can see how the contact pin comes through the bottom of the coil and separates the contacts when it is it the upright position, cutting current to the coil and letting it drop. The coils on these are fatter that the regular ones and they pull about 10 amps vs. 6 for the regular ones.

Can't see it in these pics, but the lenses have a lead weight riveted to the end inside. Also, notice the pigment on these lenses has faded badly and in the last pics you can see the pivot arm through the plastic.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey John... have you welded yet a K intake like this one? has number 17, KDF logo and welded intake flanges. what years would it be?

i am thinking of welding it , but i don't know if it would affect the gas flow ...
can i use sections from a 36hp intake?

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more here https://picasaweb.google.com/mihaiapostol2007/KManifold
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never seen one like that before. The number 17 and KDF log are on the underside of the endcastings?

You can use a 36hp intake for parts, the intake runner is the same diameter as the 25hp one.

Looks like maybe a homemade/modified one you have???
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it was butchered ... see the picasa link. i will use only the endcastings... along with 1-2 cm or so from the original tubing. the kdf logo is underside the endcastings alond with a 17.

might use it on my 52 split, but technically correct would be the 701 erased E , right?
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the endcasting faces 29mm or 31-32mm? Are they brazed to the little bit of original tubing left there, or are they pressed in? What about the carb flange, welded or brazed??
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

all brazed everywhere, nothing pressed in. carb flange brazed also.
haven't measured the diameter yet, but i am guessing it's a 29mm. fits perfect on the 1943 cylinderhead i have.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back on the "701" intake restoration thread and some VERY encouraging progress.

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First, the work on the tooling to make the long "dimple" in the 18 x 1 mm tubing that I found. I got a piece of metric spec, very thick walled gas pipe and cut a section of it out. The 18mm tubing slips into it very snugly. This pipe will be welded to a 1/4" plate with box tubing along each side to keep it from spreading open when the press is made.

Then on to the challenge of bending the thin walled (expensive!) metric spec tubing along about a 2.5" radius of curvature. As it turns out, 1/2 electrical conduit is almost identical in dimension to this stuff....but it is a seamed tubing so it would not be correct. but at $2.10 for 10 feet, it makes nice "practice" tubing.

Researching on line in metal fabrication forums, I learned about two methods of limiting distortion on tight bends with thin walled tubing. One was to fill the tube with water and freeze it. The other was to fill the tube with sand. In one youtube video, a guy filled the tube with water first, then poured in sand displacing some of the water. In all cases, the ends are just taped with duct tape. When bent, there is no longitudinal pressure on the sand/ice, so it does not push out.

So I gave it a shot, trying a few methods:

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From the bottom up,

1/2" electrical conduit filled with dry, extra fine blasting media

Middle, left bend: 1/2" electrical conduit filled with water and frozen

Middle, right bend: 1/2" electrical conduit with nothing inside

Top, left bend: The metric spec tubing, filled with water, blasting media, then frozen.

Top, right bend: The metric spec tubing empty inside, but I tried heating it to dull red while bending.

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So yeah, I combined the sand and frozen water technique (I have a freezer in my shop, why not?) And the results were just awesome.

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Absolutely no kinking or ovaling of the tubing in the bend at all. And this is just with my cheap hydraulic bender. For the zwitter intake section which its pretty close to two near right angle bends close together, I may have to make the parts separately, then weld them together. But I figure I won't be making that many of them. I have some sources for some metric roller benders, but they are actually hard to find a quite expensive.

For the 701 style intake, I can make the sections with the hydraulic bender as the bends are pretty far apart.

I have a guy working on the drawing for the dolly that will slip inside the tubing for the press operation, but that effort is going very slowly. I may go get an oak dowel and just make one out of that in the near term to test this out.
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Last edited by johnshenry on Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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henry roberts
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
[
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for future reference john, if you sand/grind the ribs off the blades of your avation snips you won't get the dimpling along the edge of what you are cutting.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

henry roberts wrote:


for future reference john, if you sand/grind the ribs off the blades of your avation snips you won't get the dimpling along the edge of what you are cutting.


Cool, good to know. Thanks. Those serrations are a pain in the ass...
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CAD for the inner anvil part done, going to machine shop on Friday...

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bit more work on the press fixture for the zwitter intake repair section tonight.

First I straightened out what was left of my original, so I could use it for a reference for angles, bend radii, etc. You can see that it is in the shape most of them end up in. I bolted it to the intake fixture and once I got it all tweaked I heated what was left of the heat riser with a torch to relieve the stress and keep it straight.

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The press base fixture is slant cut at the ends, to allow the bend exit which slopes at about 26 degrees downward. I cut both ends as eventually I would like to be able to make both sides of the heat riser. The box sections on either side will help keep the tube between them from spreading, although it is thick enough that I doubt it would anyway. I just tacked it together with the MIG for now.

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Well I send a CAD out for quotes to have a piece of 16mm solid tool steel milled to profile, to 3 different shops. One said they couldn't do it, one didn't reply, and one quoted me $795. Shocked

So I got to thinking that I might try a wooden dowel press die. I got an oak dowel and turned it down until it slipped neatly into the metric tubing. Still no idea how I am going to shape it.......

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A little bit of progress at the time.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a pic of this engine dolly that I made on my bugshop.org site, and over the years several people have asked for the dimensions of it, so I figure I would post it here.

Dolly is made from 5 pieces of 2x4, one is 13.5" long and the other four are all 10.5". So the outside dimensions of the it are 12" x 13.5". I think in the pic you can see how they all go together pretty easily. The space inside is wide enough for a floor jack saddle so as you lower the engine from the chassis, you can just slip this dolly around the end of the floor jack and as you lower the block, it will just come to rest on the top of the dolly.

I bought a new floor jack since I made this dolly probably 15 years ago, and the round saddle is just a hair too wide to fit between the 2x4s on the top of the dolly, so I usually just take it off and put a 2x4 block on top of it.

Works good for trannies too.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
A bit more work on the press fixture for the zwitter intake repair section tonight.

First I straightened out what was left of my original, so I could use it for a reference for angles, bend radii, etc. You can see that it is in the shape most of them end up in. I bolted it to the intake fixture and once I got it all tweaked I heated what was left of the heat riser with a torch to relieve the stress and keep it straight.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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The press base fixture is slant cut at the ends, to allow the bend exit which slopes at about 26 degrees downward. I cut both ends as eventually I would like to be able to make both sides of the heat riser. The box sections on either side will help keep the tube between them from spreading, although it is thick enough that I doubt it would anyway. I just tacked it together with the MIG for now.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Well I send a CAD out for quotes to have a piece of 16mm solid tool steel milled to profile, to 3 different shops. One said they couldn't do it, one didn't reply, and one quoted me $795. Shocked

So I got to thinking that I might try a wooden dowel press die. I got an oak dowel and turned it down until it slipped neatly into the metric tubing. Still no idea how I am going to shape it.......

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A little bit of progress at the time.

You get two to restore in HO13, want they back in Bad C. 2015;-)
Marcus
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok Marcus, I'll make sure to leave room in my suitcase!
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I sent the CAD drawing out to 3 local shops for CNC quotes. One didn't reply, one replied and said they could/would not do that work, and one quoted me $795.

Ok.

So following a suggestion via PM from "lovethatconvertible" I decided to try an make a wooden one out of an oak dowel. 5/8". I had to put a nail in the end, spin it on a drill and run sand paper around it a bit to take it down enough to fit into the tubing. Then came the problem of cutting the "dish" into it.

lovethatconvertible suggested that I use router and build a guide for it. Problem is I don't have a router... at least I didn't at that time. Craigslist, $40 and a shady "meet me at that convenience store" later I had a decent one, then $33 on line to buy a 5/8" "ball" router bit. Tonight I built a router guide for it and thought it came out pretty good. A $40 router with a $33 bit.

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The dowel is secured in the groove by a couple screws from underneath. The whole jig is screwed to my work bench.

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It really worked great. (thanks LTC!!!)

So I bolted my 2 ton arbor press to the workbench and used the 16mm solid rod as a die...

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And really got nowhere. I tried it on a piece of electrical conduit, and only succeeded in putting a faint crease in the conduit before I bent the solid rod. Then I used a deep impact socket just on the 3" near the end, and this worked a little better.

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But the socket did not center well, I had to hammer the oak mandrel out of it, and then the conduit was hopelessly stuck in the jig I made.

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I ended up having to slit the conduit lengthwise with a carbide disk just to be able to hammer it out.

So lessons learned:

The jig has to be open along the top to be able to drop the tubing in, not slide it in from the end. Otherwise it will be stuck in there each time due to the outward stress of the tubing after pressing. So I ground and filed the edges of the jig pipe enough to be able to drop the pipe into the jig from the top. The width of the opening is now 18mm.

I need to make a better press die, something that won't bend.

That arbor press just is not going to cut it, I need a lot more pressure. I started looking at Harbor Freight hydraulic presses (I have been looking for an excuse to buy one) and will go to HF tomorrow to look at them. It is either a 12 ton, or a 20 ton. Each have a guided press ram that goes across the frame that I think I could just weld some steel rod across and it would work fine. That would solve the press die issue.

More to come......
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