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johnshenry Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I remember those pics. Definitely not black then. I'll shoot a medium flat hi temp grey....

Thanks....
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henry roberts
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

excellent work john. congrats on a sucessful outcome. Cool
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool....
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

splitjunkie wrote:
johnshenry wrote:
Thanks for the kind words, it is pretty gratifying when something comes out well and meets your own expectations.

Gee, I'm feeling all wistful and kinda reminiscent of Woz & Jobs; ("well, keep trying 'til it's perfect"... Idea )
Good to see the yankee spirit alive and well! Idea Cool Exclamation Arrow
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a shot from the 1964 exchange pamphlet in The Samba archives :
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/64exchange.php

The intake manifold is black on this little 36hp. Doesn't surprise me at all that if VW is supplying rebuilt engines back in the early 1960's that they are just painting the "used" intakes black.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I own NOS 36hp manifolds that are both black and grey.

I don't believe the black ones are used originals painted black but to be honest, I haven't looked that closely at them.

I have also seen other NOS engine parts that are both black and grey, for instance 40hp stale-air heater boxes. They are definitely NOS as they have stickers on them.
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splitjunkie
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

banana split wrote:
Here's a shot from the 1964 exchange pamphlet in The Samba archives :
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/64exchange.php

The intake manifold is black on this little 36hp. Doesn't surprise me at all that if VW is supplying rebuilt engines back in the early 1960's that they are just painting the "used" intakes black.

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That is a cool picture but catalog and brochure art is notoriously inaccurate.

It is rare that something is taken off the assembly line and photographed as is. That picture looks to have been altered from a color standpoint. In many cases, especially in the owners manual and Bentley manuals, drive train components have been painted colors other than factory so they will photograph better in black and white.

So that might be accurate and it might not. Period assembly line and period candid pictures are the most accurate guide. Unfortunately most from that period are in black and white.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
There is a pic of this engine dolly that I made on my bugshop.org site, and over the years several people have asked for the dimensions of it, so I figure I would post it here.
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Copying from the "master" Wink I've made a dolly for my garage, modified a bit for my floor jack. I've added locking wheels to the front, just incase!
Thanks JH

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice!

I just made a very similar one to lift hold the plow for my truck, used the same basic design. Only difference is that the plow weighs 850 lbs!!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Oh Brian, PLEASE don't run that engine with the rubber line and fuel filter in the engine bay. Even if it is clamped, that is very dangerous. Many a vintage Beetle has been torched because of that.

If you want to run a filter, put it on the low pressure side of the pump, behind the forward tin under the car, where the fuel line comes out of the chassis. Much safer there....
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use an ATV jack for removing the motor, wheeling around and you can jack it up, pull up a chair and work on it.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reminder john, it was only on for bench testing the motor, and to do the initial running while in the garage. Not thrilled with whats still coming out of the fuel line until i get the fuel pump sucking that gas. I do have a filter on the back side too. Can't be reminded too much! Wink

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a early ribbed SWF semaphore that I recently restored. I have a pair already, but I have never seen one with an original uncracked lens. Note that it does not have the sliding brass bulb access door underneath the lens and the metal arm wraps around farther and is secured by a screw (which actually into the bulbholder inside and is part of the electrical circuit). I think I post earlier in this thread that this is the sem that is shown in the Sept 1950 service manual.

And you can see the date code on the pivot, "HB" or Aug 1950.

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Presently replacement lenses for these semaphores are not available but I am working with a part manufacturer and they may be available soon....
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a thread where these were first discussed..... back when I had no idea what they were. You can see pics from the service manual there....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=374864&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
Here's a early ribbed SWF semaphore that I recently restored. I have a pair already, but I have never seen one with an original uncracked lens. Note that it does not have the sliding brass bulb access door underneath the lens and the metal arm wraps around farther and is secured by a screw (which actually into the bulbholder inside and is part of the electrical circuit). I think I post earlier in this thread that this is the sem that is shown in the Sept 1950 service manual.

And you can see the date code on the pivot, "HB" or Aug 1950.

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Really nice work!. Look brand new. Almost as i have to keep this one Wink
Mabye i have the others ready for summer? Smile
(Not in a hurry so take your time.)

K
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So here we have (one of) the very elusive Split 'vert semaphores. Like sedans, there are 2 kinds, SWF and SHO. SHOs are "grooved" arms, and SWF "ribbed". Another easy way to tell them apart is by the "block" at the top of the body that serves as the locking mechism when the sem is off. On SWFs, it is just a bare tab.

Vert sems are a bit of a legend. It is known that regular sedan sems were installed in many 'verts... but a vert sem with a wrap around arm is also seen in some period lit.

Often you see sems being sold as "Split Convertible" sems, for big dollars, but they are really probably Saab sems. I bought a half dozen of them at Hessisch this past June for about $75 (there are some parts common with the VW sems). But there does exist a "real" SHO 'vert sem, and it is shown in the pics below. The differences between it and the Saab sems are pretty small, and indicated in the pics below. The obvious difference is the VW logo and VW part number, interestingly the same number as the sedan sem (SWF or SHO). But there are other subtle, but easy to see when compared details.

The "B" on the split vert sem is to to remind me who it belongs too..... Wink

VW Sem is the one on the bottom below:

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The VW sem is on the left in these pics:

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Note the slight difference in the curvature of the arm here, the VW Sems is in the back in this pic:

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VW Sem on the right here. Dated Sept 1951:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Around 1982 or so, I had a job at a Stereo store in the mall in SC. I worked in the repair shop in the back. There was a tech there who had a reputation of being able to fix anything. Anything plastic that was broken he would fix with something called Plast-T-Pair. I remember it well, the smell of the solvent was very strong...

Fast forward to 2014. I have been doing more and more split Beetle speedo pod repairs, and dealing with thing such as the pic above...broken/sheared off pieces of bakelite...

So I suddenly remembered Plast-T-Pair, and of course very quickly found a place on the web that sold it. So I bought some in hopes of being able to repair/restore this broken speedo pod.

Plas-T-pair is a powder and liquid solvent that can be mixed together to make a quick setting polycorbonate material. I decided to try and replicate this broken off speedometer M5 screw section of the pod with the product. I cut some masking tape from a roll that consisted of 4-5 layers of tape.

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I used the tape around what was left of the original casting to create a "mold" of the original part:

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I then used a piece of cardboard and an M5 screws and nut to create a way to hold the nut in the mold. Per the instructions that came with the Plas-T-pair product, I put a thin film of oil on the screw threads so it could be freed when the plastic had set.

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Per the instructions for Plas-T-pair:

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I mixed the powder and solvent together and let it "set up" for maybe 10 minutes or so:

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Then I poured it into the masking tape mold:

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I let it cure (only about 25 minutes....) and then peeled the tape away:

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I turned out the screw, an then filed and shaped the casting:

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This stuff is pretty cool, it set very fast (less than 30 mins from mixing) and is very hard. As you can see the M5 nut is set well inside the new casting and the adhesion of this material to the original pod is very good. This is an original ivory bakelite (1949-'50 only) pod that is very rare.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

with some genuine nut sourced from broken pods, and maybe some white powder to give a white finish to the plast-t-pair, that pod should be good to go for another 60 years Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some really Kool stuff going on in here John Cool Thanx for sharing.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

eurodub wrote:
with some genuine nut sourced from broken pods, and maybe some white powder to give a white finish to the plast-t-pair, that pod should be good to go for another 60 years Smile


That is actually and interesting thought. I friend who restores old guitars and amps once told me about making a powder out of the material by sanding/grinding old broken parts and using it with a solvent. I could probably make some ivory bakelite powder (no shortage of broken ivory pods!) and mix it with the Plas-T-pair to color it....
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