Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Zarwerks shop spy cam ....
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 23, 24, 25  Next
Jump to:
Forum Index -> Beetle - Split-Window/1938-53 VWs Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
my65vert
Samba Member


Joined: November 09, 2003
Posts: 6186
Location: Middleburg, Florida
my65vert is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

anybody?
_________________
OGJHC
Kombisutra;
I'm starting to get little wafts of bus stink coming from the north. Something about the unique scent of drivers seat padding when it's glued together with mouse piss and shit that really gets me going... and I'm smelling it! Oh yeah! Time to start loading up the equipment.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my65vert wrote:
I have a NOS 701E intake, have no use for it. Is it worth anything?


The 36hp intakes are fairly common, even in near NOS condition. I can usually get them for $30-$50 a piece pretty easily. NOS of course is NOS. I wouldn't mind having an NOS one for the "intake musuem". I'd say it is worth $75-$100. Drop me an e-mail at [email protected] if you are interested in selling it in that range.

If you are not in a hurry to sell it, just hang on to it. Old NOS VW parts usually outperform common mutual funds............
_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
originalo
Samba Member


Joined: February 14, 2007
Posts: 358
Location: Germany
originalo is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On epay there is being offered one of those rare´53 only manifolds.
Search for 180178163453.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

originalo wrote:
On epay there is being offered one of those rare´53 only manifolds.
Search for 180178163453.


Good eye.

That is indeed a rare manifold, but that one also needs help. The challenge with those is the "grooved" heat riser tubing like the later ones, but it is the thin wall, 18mm OD kind. I am presently trying to restore one of those and working on a modified bead roller to be able to reproduce the heat riser sections. The other challenge is bending that tubing to about a 2" radius without kinking. Difficult without heating the steel.

Of course I can create them out of "donor" 36hp intakes, but as mentioned above, that is with the 21-22mm OD tubing. And the jacket isn't correct.

Note the lateral grooves on the jacket.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ProjectX
Accessory Nut


Joined: May 01, 2006
Posts: 1014

ProjectX is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well John, there's another one!

Thanks for sticking with that manifold, I know it's not an easy one.... considering the level of originality I'm trying to achieve it will be worth it I hope..... Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can honestly say those are nearly as rare the jacketed K manifolds. One of the finer "details" of the '53-'54 engines....
_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Off the topic of intakes for a bit, here is some interesting stuff on generator and testing. I have decided to use this thread as a general interest "shop stuff" that people my benefit from or just find generally interesting.

This is a 25hp (May '53) gen I just rebuilt, and after polarization, it is tested for output on a jig that I built.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

In this first pic it is spun at 3600rpm and the field is not grounded (green wire, the other side of the field is tied to the "hot" brush, as is the white/black output wire). The armature generates some voltage just from the residual magnetism in the field winding cores; a result of the polarization.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I use a piece of rubber coolant line to connect the shafts of the motor and gen. This gives me some margin on the alignment of the shafts, and if there were to be something really bad happen to the gen and it locked up, it would not damage the motor. In the pic above, that hose is spinning at 3600 rpm, but the camera flash captures it apparently still.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


In this pic, the field is grounded (green clip lead). The green wire is basically in place of the regulator, and the volt meter is reading the voltage off the "hot" brush. This gen is maxed out, and it is kind of a snowball effect. As the armature spins, it creates voltage which goes right to the field, which creates a stronger magnetic field for the armature, which creates more voltage in the armature, which creates more field voltage, etc... You can see this 6 volt gen is putting out 22 volts.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here you can see in the rubber hose that with the field grounded, there is significant torsional load on the gen (another stop-motion pic). While there is no real electrical load, it is kind of beating itself up (not good to run it for more than a few seconds like this!).


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here you can see the rubber hose used to connect the two....
_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab


Last edited by johnshenry on Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:49 am; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently restored a '49 speedo for someone, and found a paint that is very close to the original split (brown) speedo face color. You can get it at your local hobby/model store, it is made by "Floquil" and is an enamel that dries pretty fast. The color is "Roof Brown". In the pics below, note that the speedo face is a bit faded, and thus the painted parts (the bezel around the face as well as the glass retaining bezel on this speedo) appear a bit darker. But the color is very close.

You can also sometime address chipped, flaking and scratched areas of the face by putting some paint (it is also available in a bottle) on a brush and letting it dry out first just a bit, then jambing, not swiping, the bristles onto the area. This creates a dotting effect that helps make the original/paint transition areas less obvious. If the face is faded, use even less paint on the brush.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab


Last edited by johnshenry on Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:10 am; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
splitmike
Samba Member


Joined: August 03, 2004
Posts: 510
Location: Splitsville
splitmike is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great tip, thanks. I have a question about speedo restoration, What would be the best way to restore the numbers and markings on the face? Hand painting with a small brush? Mine had some surface rust around and on some of the numbers and when I removed it some of the paint came off also. Its not bad...not like the whole number is missing..just not like new.
thanks
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

michael schramm wrote:
Great tip, thanks. I have a question about speedo restoration, What would be the best way to restore the numbers and markings on the face? Hand painting with a small brush? Mine had some surface rust around and on some of the numbers and when I removed it some of the paint came off also. Its not bad...not like the whole number is missing..just not like new.
thanks


Its a tough call. Sometimes you can get away with a touch up, but no matter how much you try it looks like .... well a "touch up". Rustoleum "Almond" is a real close match to the ivory on the face, but again, fading alters shades a lot, getting a good match might be hard.

There were some stickers made a while back that surface everyonce in a while, and the colors were really nice, but I hardly see them anymore.

I have done most of the artwork on the PC for the early brown face and am looking at a water decal type process, but like everything, the list of stuff I can actually find time for is pretty short.

You probably know this but you can get REALLY fine brushes at the arts stores. With magnifying glass and a steady hand, you can do some touch up.

Here's the speedo I did assembled. I didn't attempt to do anything with the face, I just replaced his very badly faded one with a used on I had. But it shows the match with the brown paint. The needle center is painted with the railroad paint, the needle arm with Rustoloeum almond.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab


Last edited by johnshenry on Tue Apr 01, 2008 12:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
splitmike
Samba Member


Joined: August 03, 2004
Posts: 510
Location: Splitsville
splitmike is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's some pics from a simple repair that some people might find useful.

The outer generator pulley half (the flatter one) very often gets its flat sided hole munged up, especially if the pulley nut has come loose. Once the hole is all buggered up, you will never be able to keep the pulley tight anymore. Even with shims between the nut and pulley half, it will eventually "walk" the nut loose.

With some basic MIG and metalworking tools, these now harder to find pulleys can be fixed. I did a couple of them in the shop tonight, and thought I would post pics...


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Heres a couple, you can see how enlarged the hole is around this relatively new hub. The pulley half could be rotated a good 5-8 degrees I'd bet.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A date with Mr. Sandblasting cabinet and we can see better the true condition of the parts.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A pretty hot MIG gun lays down some fat bead along the worn flat sides.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Knocking down the welds on the inside is a bit tricky, I used the edge of a cutting disc on the air grinder, then followed up with a 1" disc stone on the dremel.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The outside face is easy with its high crown. The air disc grinder does well here.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then the filing starts. All by hand, no power tools here. Just file and fit, file and fit.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Back in the sandblast cabinet...


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Finally some paint...


If you are ever looking at these in the swaps, look at the crispness of the flat edges on the holes. If buying sight unseen over the web, ask for closeups of the hole.... Not the end of the world if it is worn, fixable as you can see, but don't pay top dollar for something that needs work. It took me about an hour and 20 mins to do these two....
_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 5:04 pm    Post subject: T Air Cleaner Element Replacement Reply with quote

A few people have asked for details on replacing the felt "sock" in the T Air Cleaner in the past. I put together a series of pics and some details on the tools I made/use. Here are a few pics, for the complete write-up (got too big to paste here) go to zarwerks.com and see the "Techwerks" page.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some work this week on 4 sets of the '51-'57 style heater boxes. One set is a fairly rare "early" set that has some subtle differences to the later ones that I thought I would point out. I don't know when this design ended, but I see so few of them, I'd like to believe that they were used only until '52 or '53. This particular set came out of a '52.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the lot of them, the ones nearest are the early ones and still have the original pipes! I will use these in my '51. I struggled with replacing the pipes with new ones which are over 100% heavier in the wall than the original ones when they were new, but I decided to just keep them for now. If they blow out, I'll yank them and put new pipes in them.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the lot after new pipes were welded in and they were painted with POR-15 "Black Velvet"" and baked at 450F for an hour. All of the hardware bits for them are wire brushed or blasted and painted also.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the first of the differences, the early version is on the left and you can see that (before paint) the outlet "can" is brazed in, rather than flanged and spot welded like the later one on the right.




Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The next difference is in the upper flap actuating lever. On the early version, the pivot is internal and welded to the side of the housing, and the lever has a boss and a hole. On the later version, the lever has the pivot shaft and a metal "test tube" is welded to the outside of the housing. This is invariably a design improvement to address to the problems with maintaining lubrication on the internal pivot in the very high heat environment. These old style levers very often got stuck closed or open, or drivers snapped the cable trying to open them.... In the later design, the pivot (and some grease) are effectively outside the housing and away from the relentless heat.

Also note the shape of the flap, round in the earlier version, flat on one side on the later one.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Another view of the early style with the level, clip and spring installed.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


On the outside you can see two things different, the "test tube" versus the weld puddle on the earlier, internal pivot box, and note that the actuating lever only has one hole on the early box. I never understood why there were 2 holes on the later boxes, but maybe it was so you could change the proportionality of the heater control knob (the variable one on the ovals??) by using the other position? Or maybe the second hole was for oval knobs, and the upper for the split "T" handles?? (so only the 1 hole versions are true "split" heater boxes?? Nice theory anyway....)



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A shot of the finished lot. Yes Paul, the set second from the left are yours. Drop me an e-mail....
_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab


Last edited by johnshenry on Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:22 am; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ProjectX
Accessory Nut


Joined: May 01, 2006
Posts: 1014

ProjectX is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, as usual, awesome information. Thanks again for the J-tubes, as you say they are very heavy duty. No worries about those once they are fitted and welded in Very Happy
_________________
Even my nuts are plated.....

195? Project "X"
1954 Oval Convertible
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2008 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot perhaps the most notable difference in these early boxes: The "L" bracket is welded to the outside of the forward housing half.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Around '53, when the lever pivot was redesigned, the "L" bracket was moved to the inside of the housing, near the upper pipe hole.

Toward the end of the era of this style box (probably '56-'57), small flanges were placed on the upper and lower pipe exit opening of the forward half, and the housing was spotwelded to the J pipe there as well.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought about changing the title of this to "Another reason why I hate Powdercoating"..... but I realize this is a rare example....

I am trying to get a pair of March '50 and earlier lower tin "shoeboxes" ready for my new '50 engine. I bought these years ago from someone who was not the person who had them powder coated. He even told me it was a "bad job"....

Bad indeed, even worse since I have started working with them.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note the lever on the "throat" where the second flap is, the flange for the "X plate" on the back, and these even have the hole on the back side for the flap control rod used on the single heater cable ('48 and earlier?) set ups. These are truly very early boxes.

So I took them to my sandblasting shop that does my bigger stuff and they said "are these powder coated?". I said yes and he shook his head "blasting won't do it". He even tried it in a cabinet and it only dulled the finish. I asked him if he knew how I could strip them, and he tried several kinds of strippers he had, f5f, and couple aerosols. The only one that seemed to work was "Kleen Strip" in a can. It bubbled the paint in about 3-5 minutes. I asked him where he got it and he said "Home Depot".

So I took them home, bought some Kleen Strip and tried it out. Amazing. These boxes where powder coated with dents, bends and holes worn in the metal. They need some real work to be usable (by my standards anyway).

Here is a pic after I sprayed some stripper in a few places:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


On the far, inside panel, you can see the paint seriously bubbled. I am going to try to let it completely dry (solvents evaporated out of the stripper) then blast them.

I had suspected that in a few places on the parts, surface prep was not a high priority. The area under the square flap (removed) where we all know oil and grime accumulated, was really bumpy looking. Could this moron have powder coated over oil and grime?

Well, a bit of stripper and a screwdriver scrape, and sure enough, not only grime, but a good sized PEBBLE..

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Anyway, this will be a slow process, I'll post more pics as I make progress. These boxes are very rare, worth the effort. I will have to graft some donor sections into the bottom where the flaps have completely worn through at the hinge point.

Here is a better pick of the stripper product..

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
mightymouse
Samba Member


Joined: May 26, 2004
Posts: 4220
Location: las vegas
mightymouse is offline 

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice work man. Smile i have a set of boxes here that are headed your way soon.
I had to say, i laughed when i saw that word. PEBBLE.
certain words just make you laugh when you say them. and pebble is one of them. nice on that. .......


PEBBLE! Very Happy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail AIM Address Yahoo Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
johnshenry Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9359
Location: Northwood, NH USA
johnshenry is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some discussion over in this thread I started about the very early heater boxes. I though since this was an ongoing informational thread regarding work I do and info to help others, I would post it here.

From that thread, this:

Quote:
The earliest version of the 356 box (A's I think) had a snout similar to the VW ones, but longer, and with 2 bends, not one. It can be cut after the first bend, widened at the bas a bit, and re-attached to the box making it almost the perfect profile as the VW box.

The left side (I think) P box has a big dent in the face to create clearance for the axle tube. You can use it as-is, or you can remove the dent. I spent a while trying to make tools to be able to dolly out the dent from the inside without separating the halves (they are welded together), but found it was easier to just make a "pringle" shaped patch, and MIG it over the dent, then grind it all down flush and smooth. You can of course separate the halves, but it is a lot of work... unless

.. you want to address the other notable difference in the P box. The halve flange along the inside edge is completely ground off (another clearance issue with the 356, you'd think they would just re-tool the part, wouldn't you?). You can recreate the flange by slicing right through the seam, slipping a double thickness strip of sheet metal in there, and with minimal metal, MIG or TIG along the edge.

You can also separate the halves, recreate the flanges individually, then weld it all back together. If you do that, dollying out the dent (and the tube openings) is a cinch. You'll need a good shot bag, I use rounded end wooded dowels of all sizes, and a "football" dolly for finishing.

Oh, and the P tubes are bigger too (1.5"+ vs. 1.25" for VW). Porsche only flared the VW sized holes, didn't cut them bigger. With patience, dollying, and a shrinking hammer, you can flatten them back out to the original size.

Re-working these boxes IS extremely tedious, and almost not worth it (unless you are on an unstoppable quest for correct parts) IMO. I have done maybe 2 sets for other folks and the last time SWORE I would never do it again.

That box design was even used for the early 912s if you can believe it, the snout is real short, and the opening really big. All but impossible to use those, unless for scavenge metal.

I'll post some other pics tonight, and some of some even earlier VW heater boxes where they were made from 3 pieces not 2, because they had to build the box around the J tube and flange. Later they figured out it was easier to slip the J tube through the finished box and then weld the flange on.


The no-flap '51 and earlier heater boxes are rearer than T-Rex femurs. Here is a pic of them:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


As it turns out, Porsche used the tool ing to make heater boxes for the 356's for MANY years following '51 (into the 60s in fact). There are some differences, but someone with ambition, tools, time and patience, you can make a set of P-boxes into VW ones.

The 356 boxes are pretty readily available on eBay. Don't expect to get a pair for $25, but people are usually dumping them for $50-$150 a pair because the pipes get weak. And new J pipes for VW boxes are available.

Here is a pic of a VW box and a 356 box side by side:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The 356 box is on the left. Note that the 356 pipes are bigger, and thus the holes for them are bigger.

Here are couple other comparo pics, the pale yellow box is VW, others are 356:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



You can see in that last pic the snout on the 356 is the same as the VW past its first bend.


Here is the 912 box. Still the same tooling for the basic housing, but the throat is much bigger. Also note the dent in the face of the box and the cable guide.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Here are a pair of "conversions" I made with VW pipes several years ago. I did not address the missing flange issue on these, but the snouts were made from the 356 boxes.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Lastly, here is a very, very sad early, early VW box. Probably '46 or '47. Note how there back half of the housing is made from 2 pieces of steel. This is invariably because they welded flanges on the pipes first, then "built" the box around it afterward. Later they figured out that it is easier to make a 2 piece box, slip the bare pipe into it, and then weld the flange on.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


These boxes also had no threaded bore on the bottom for the screw to secure them to the shoeboxes, as there was no tab on the shoeboxes from that period.
_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Brezelwerks
Samba Member


Joined: March 17, 2003
Posts: 1421
Location: Tyngsboro, MA
Brezelwerks is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:

Here are a pair of "conversions" I made with VW pipes several years ago. I did not address the missing flange issue on these, but the snouts were made from the 356 boxes.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.





Nice work John on those snout areas, but bummer I was hoping to see a set remade fully correct. The missing inner flanges are a dead giveaway they are P boxes, something you'd spot likely well before the snouts. Also seems the other side shot the J pipe exit flange holes weren't tightened up at all, and can't see how well that flattened axle dimple area came out. This set seems to have their share of other cosmetic dents/cracks/pits so maybe it wasn't worth the effort. Thanks for sharing the pics.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Beetle - Split-Window/1938-53 VWs All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 23, 24, 25  Next
Jump to:
Page 3 of 25

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.