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1967250s
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 3:06 am    Post subject: more on welding Reply with quote

As soon as I can I'm getting a tig set up with gas and pedal control. much more prcise heat and metal puddle control-see youtube
>Get gas argon co2 if you can- it seems to help a huge amount.
>Fit pieces as close as you can, it is possible to build up edges with lots of experience but this is all about prep work, like a good paint job
>Learn the techniques and they will pay you back a hundredfold>

Learn the hazards, Can't say how important this is to your health, breathing fumes sucks and stays with you for a LLLOOOOONNNNNGGGG time(cough, cough) and catching your car and pants or house on fire ?!?!

That all said- this can be lots of fun with proper knowledge. and look at what we can do! Nothing like saying "I did that" :D
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MMW wrote:
I would buy the Hobart. If something ever happens to it they have good support & parts availability. Plus you would be buying a machine that has great reviews & has proven itself to be reliable & long lasting. Any of the name brand welders also hold their value so if you ever want to sell you will get most of your money back.


So, I bought a Hobart Handler 140 on Saturday. I need to buy a tank. I have a few questions about the tank and the gas.

What size tank would you recommend I buy? I will replace my front floors, and a small section of my cargo floor. If I do a good job with the plug welds, I will then attempt other jobs. So, I'm ok with going back for a refill once in a while, but I don't want to have to go to get gas if I am trying to accomplish one job, for example the front floors.

What mixture of gas would you recommend?

Lastly, what type of helmet would you recommend? I am ok with spending a decent amount.....I have already had one eye surgery in my life for sun damage. So, no need to skimp on a helmet

Thanks for the help.

Spitty

What setting should I use to plug weld on the Hobart Handler for the sheet metal on my bus floors and other areas?

What would be the best wire to use with the shielding gas?
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MMW
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would get a minimum of an 80cf tank of 75/25 argon/co2. That will give you approx. 4 hrs. of trigger time. These stand about 36" tall. A 125cf tank is about 49" tall & will give you about 6 hrs. trigger time.

If your only going to do body work then get .023 dia. er70s-6. If you think you'll do some heavier stuff also then get .030 dia. I prefer Hobart brand. You can get it a Tractor Supply as well as other places. A 10-11# spool will last you a long time for body stuff.

I prefer a flip down helmet as that's what I've always used (Jackson Shadow). You can start with a #10 lens & go from there. I just gat a Hobart vs auto dark that I'm trying out. So far it seems o/k. I would stay away from the cheap auto dark helmets & only get a name brand.

As far as settings go by the door chart to start with. That will get you in the range. Practice on some scrap the same thickness first.
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1959 356 coupe
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Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MMW wrote:
I would get a minimum of an 80cf tank of 75/25 argon/co2. That will give you approx. 4 hrs. of trigger time. These stand about 36" tall. A 125cf tank is about 49" tall & will give you about 6 hrs. trigger time.

If your only going to do body work then get .023 dia. er70s-6. If you think you'll do some heavier stuff also then get .030 dia. I prefer Hobart brand. You can get it a Tractor Supply as well as other places. A 10-11# spool will last you a long time for body stuff.

I prefer a flip down helmet as that's what I've always used (Jackson Shadow). You can start with a #10 lens & go from there. I just gat a Hobart vs auto dark that I'm trying out. So far it seems o/k. I would stay away from the cheap auto dark helmets & only get a name brand.

As far as settings go by the door chart to start with. That will get you in the range. Practice on some scrap the same thickness first.


is there a place online where I can buy a decent quality tank? Or should I just try and buy one locally or rent one?

Thank you for the Information, I appreciate it!
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tanks are heavy, look in your yellow pages for oxygen or welding supplies, you don;t want to pay for shipping. Craigs list or classifieds? Buddies,? really, welding shop is best bet and cheapest
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MMW
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you need one right away I would recommend your local welding supply. Tractor Supply also sells them & exchanges them but are more $ at least in NJ. Keep looking on Craigslist for a used one. When they pop up they usually get sold quick if priced right ($75-100). All tanks are date stamped good for 10 years before they need to be retested. Usually about $25 for a retest. Sometimes you can only refill/exchange where you bought but this varies with the stores.
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1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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Mack8743
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got a 80 c/f here in Pa for $201.40 with taxes.
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Mack8743
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

forgot to say at a welding supply company
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volksgroove
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I guess my info was inaccurate... Nevertheless, I am happy with my Hobart 210 MVP.
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Last edited by volksgroove on Thu Mar 14, 2013 2:49 am; edited 1 time in total
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MMW
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd like to correct some misinformation in the above post.

1) Miller & Hobart are owned by the same parent company which is ITW. Lincoln is a seperate company with no affiliation. Miller & Lincoln machines sold at welding supply houses are both "higher" end machines. The Lincolns sold at the chain stores are on par with Hobart. Hobart is geared toward the homeowner/hobbiest. They are good quality machines but not "industrial" type.

2)Duty cycle is calculated in 10 minute increments. A 30% duty cycle means you can weld for 3 minutes & then let it cool for 7 minutes.

3) The equivalent of the Hobart 210 MVP is the Miller 211 auto set with MVP which lists for $1103 but can be had cheaper by shopping around.
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00245

4) the Hobart 210 mvp is not the largest welder Tractor supply sells. They have the Hobart 230 Iron Man.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/hobart-ironmantrade%3B-230-mig-welder?cm_vc=-10005

The Miller, Hobart & Lincolns are great machines for what they are intended to do.
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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys,
Ok I have another welding question. I have been practicing with my Hobart Mig 140. I bought a tank and I am using the 75%Argon/25%Co2 with a solid wire of 0.30 size.

So far, I have just welded up some square tubing that is 1/8 inch thick. I am going to end up getting some sheet metal and plug welding it onto the bottom.....This will then be welded onto an existing metal cart that I picked up with casters for my welder and then my tank will rest in the area that I made out of the sq tubing along with some chain for added security.

Anyway, I have spoken to one other Samba member and they have given me some suggestions on what to set my welder at and other info, but I thought I would ask some of you as well.

After much practice on scrap metal I am going to be plug welding in a new front floor on my bus. I have a few questions:

What speed for the wire would be a good place to start and what heat setting? I know there is a chart on the inside, but looking for practical hands on info from people who have done similar.

What size wire and brand would you suggest for plug welding?

What size hole should I drill into the replacement floor to plug?

Should I buy some clecos to secure the floor once I have it fitted well? if so, what size would you suggest, and how many?

Will the hole where I use a cleco be large enough for a plug weld?


Last but not least.....Thanks for responding and passing on your knowledge.

Spitty
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MMW
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1) Start with the chart. It is close. Everyones technique is slightly different so your settings may be different than someone elses. Practice on the same thickness material for settings & timing. I have a different machine.

2) For 16 gauge sheetmetal & thinner I would recommend .023. I prefer Hobart brand.

3) Again personal preference but I would start with a 3/16" hole & see if it works for you.

4) Clecos are a good idea although I have never used them. Sheet matal screws work well.

5) Depends on your technique & heat settings.
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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MMW wrote:
1) Start with the chart. It is close. Everyones technique is slightly different so your settings may be different than someone elses. Practice on the same thickness material for settings & timing. I have a different machine.

2) For 16 gauge sheetmetal & thinner I would recommend .023. I prefer Hobart brand.

3) Again personal preference but I would start with a 3/16" hole & see if it works for you.

4) Clecos are a good idea although I have never used them. Sheet matal screws work well.

5) Depends on your technique & heat settings.


Thank you for taking the time to respond. I am going to take your suggestions and give it a whirl. Life has been a bit crazy so welding has taken a back seat. That said, I will be free from work for two months in about 5 weeks....I plan to get serious about practicing and hopefully welding on my bus.....I will check back in with you once this happens.....Thanks again.
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flyinglow94
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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a tip... When welding thin sheet metal if you have access and a piece of thick aluminum or brass scrap you can hold it on the seem or hole. It will absorb some of the heat and cut down the warping it also make for a cleaner weld.

I use .025 wire for all automotive steel parts and the 75/25 mix.
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esde
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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flyinglow94 wrote:
Just a tip... When welding thin sheet metal if you have access and a piece of thick aluminum or brass scrap you can hold it on the seem or hole. It will absorb some of the heat and cut down the warping it also make for a cleaner weld.

I use .025 wire for all automotive steel parts and the 75/25 mix.

This is great advice. With the thin wire you can weld at a lower voltage (heat) and get less distortion, and chance of burning through. Back up your welds with copper or brass sheet, aluminum will stick sometimes. Find some scrap of the same gauge as what youre welding to get dialed in on. I like to find out what voltage burns through the work before starting on the real piece.
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bibliomane74
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need to know if there's something wrong with me. I am getting a welder to do pans and some body stuff. But I also have delusions of building a hot rod with my son someday. Anyway, I am obsessed with learning TIG, and that's what I want. I have taken a class in stick and MIG. And I am totally ok with spending some time learning. Even a lot of time. You will try to talk me out of it. But I want it. However...

I have been looking at the Miller Multimatic. Both TIG and MIG. I know it may not be as powerful on either. But it's portable and has both capabilities. Won't that hold me for some years? Then I can get something bigger sometime.

Any thoughts?
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legotech7
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bibliomane74, absolutely.....
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flyinglow94
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bibliomane74 wrote:
I need to know if there's something wrong with me. I am getting a welder to do pans and some body stuff. But I also have delusions of building a hot rod with my son someday. Anyway, I am obsessed with learning TIG, and that's what I want. I have taken a class in stick and MIG. And I am totally ok with spending some time learning. Even a lot of time. You will try to talk me out of it. But I want it. However...

I have been looking at the Miller Multimatic. Both TIG and MIG. I know it may not be as powerful on either. But it's portable and has both capabilities. Won't that hold me for some years? Then I can get something bigger sometime.

Any thoughts?


If you are serious about learning how to TIG, work on your ox/acetylene welding and then if you want to punches a good welder (I prefer Miller). I would make sure your new punches has a hi frequency capability so you can do aluminum. With a stick welder you can buy an air cooled scratch arc tig torch and a bottle of argon and weld stainless and steel but if you have AC with hi freq and even water cooled torch then you can do aluminum.
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MMW
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read about it here.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/showthread.php?29881-multimatic-200

and here

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/m...imatic-200
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1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone try eastwood's new small TIG welder? I'm also curious how well TIG works on sheetmetal like our Busses?
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