Shift rod bushing - how to?

westmatt · Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:59 am Post subject:

If I might add my $.02.

If you have an electrician's fish tape (they're not expensive, you can get them anywhere), it makes it super easy to pull some twine (the nylon kind electricians use to pull wire is perfect) from the shifter opening to the front of the car. If you don't know how to use a fish tape, don't despair, it's easy stuff (low-tech) - just Google it. In essence, it's just a piece of really stiff wire.

Push the fish tape through the front inspection ports, into the tunnel, and back to the shifter opening, tie one end of the twine on to the fish tape, then pull the twine back out through the front, then disconnect the twine from the fish tape.

Now you've got a piece of twine inside the tunnel, running from the shifter opening to the front inspection ports. You can then tie the back end of the twine to the shift rod cup - I used a zip tie over my loop to make sure it didn't come off - then pull the twine at the front of the car forward and pull the rod out of the car. Piece of cake.

Put the ring on the bushing, grease outside of bushing, pop bushing in hanger.

Push the fish tape forward through the shifter opening to the front of the car. Again, as you did before, tie the twine to the fish tape and use the fish tape to pull the free/untied end of the twine back through the inspection ports (the other end should be retied to the shift rod cup after you've cleaned it up) and up through the shifter opening.

Disconnect the fish tape, you're done with it. Pull the free end of the twine steadily until you feel resistance (remember - it's tied at the front end to the shift rod cup). Go to the front of the car and guide the rod back through the inspection ports and into the tunnel, the cup will still be sticking out of the front of the car. Again go to the shifter opening, pull the twine back gently and you'll pull the rod right back where it needs to go. Do this slowly but steadily, adjusting the rod position from the front of the car as needed.

Put a pretty good dab of grease all around the inner diameter of the bushing. Use a loop of wire at the shifter opening to pull the back end of the rod up and seat it against the opening of the new bushing.

I took a rubber mallet, placed a short length of steel pipe up against the shift rod cup sticking out from the front of the car (other end firmly seated against the bushing opening), and a couple of gentle (emphasis - GENTLE) taps pushed the rod right into the bushing. Once you've gotten that far, it's super easy to get it the rest of the way with the twine and/or a pair of pliers or even just a piece of wire (in a "U" shape, looped under the rod) to rock it gently back to the coupler. As you pull it back, the grease glob will lube the rod.

My notes:

-Stay to the passenger side of the car with the twine and the rod, to avoid the fuel line.
-Don't be stingy with the twine, give yourself a good bit of extra on both ends.
-I didn't go to great lengths to clean the rod, just a light once-over with steel wool. It went into the bushing with no trouble.
-Slow and steady wins the race.
-Remember that the retainer ring does NOT go into the groove on the bushing - that groove is where the bushing snaps into the hanger. The ring is placed forward of that.
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Red Mage · Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 5:38 pm Post subject:

What's the magic trick to get the rod to go back into the bushing? There's no way I can do it with my fingers through the shift hole.

Also, I can't for the life of me find my front inspection plate. There's two bolts in the front center of the front end, and when I take them out, nothing happens because they're just bolted into the frame. There's no plate anywhere. This is on my '73 super.

Here's a picture:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I don't know what those bolts are there for, but it's not for holding a plate on.

edit: Ended up just installing it without the circlip. Only took me an hour start to finish, I don't really mind if it falls off sooner than 40 years.
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CLASSIC CAR GUY · Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 11:40 pm Post subject:

65'1300Deluxe · Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 12:02 am Post subject:

once I had the rod started back into the bushing, I pushed it the rest of the way with a broom handle, occasionally checking at the rear with a flashlight because the first time I managed to snag it under one of the heater flap conduits. Having small hands like mine helps too... Rolling Eyes

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1972 Super Beetle Barnfind "Roland"

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64vdub · Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 12:04 am Post subject:

Mooosman · Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 4:22 pm Post subject:

Just replaced the shift rod bushing on my '69 beetle, as well as the shift coupler. The bushing is OEM VW, and the replacement coupler is made in Germany, but something doesn't feel right. The coupler has some play in it, like the rubber bushings in the coupler are slightly loose inside the cage. With the shifter in place and the inspection cover off at the back, you can see some slight play when you move the shifter front to back (without engaging gear).

Just wondering if anyone else has had this happen with replacement coupler bushings? I even put the new bushings into the original VW cage, and they still feel a little loose. Is this just the way it is, or are the bushings really supposed to 'snap' into the cage tightly? Does anyone have another source for OEM or good German replacement bushings?

Nick Confused

silvertonguedevil · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:47 am Post subject:

I don't remember 100% but I'm pretty sure that shouldn't have any play in it. Someone else might chime in here but I really thought mine was pretty solid when I replaced it.
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1965 Patina Bug

mnussbau · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:57 am Post subject:

The bushings should be tight inside the cage. These are German made but I can't vouch for their quality.
http://www.oeveedub.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=oe&Product_Code=823-711-477
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Parts...

bill may · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 11:39 am Post subject:

Mooosman · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 3:21 pm Post subject:

mnussbau · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 3:29 pm Post subject:

Doodoob · Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:24 pm Post subject:

Just wanted to say thanks for all the info, I just repl,aced the bushing and coupler in my 67 last night. The bushing was gone, all that was left was the clip. This actualy went fairly easy.......I used a couple of methods that I thought would work the best.

I used the string tied to the end by the coupler when I pulled it out, then cut the string, slid the bushing on the string. I took some brake cleaner and a wire brush to get all of the 40 year old grime off and then took some very fine sand paper to make it smooth. Next I retied the string to the rod and had my wife pull it in while I guided it in. Once it got to the hangar I applied a little grease to the bushing and popped it in place. Then I loaded it full of grease and set the rod in the opening, went to the front of the car and gave the rod a good push, and it started easily. Once it got in far enough I used pliers through the shifter cut out to slide it the rest of the way.

jdconceptual · Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 2:25 pm Post subject:

I just did this job on my 62 bug and found that after only 20 minutes the cuss words were flying as well. I finally go the rod out the front with a little coaxing, not to mention loosening of the front bumper and sway bars replaced the bushing then I thought...hey I should put a layer of grease along this shaft to prevent rust down the line. Seemed logical at the time but made getting the rod back in place much more difficult since I couldnt move with my fingers through the shift hole...so I took a broomstick and rammed it home with a little help from a bud.

Ironically enough it still didn't fix the initial problem of the shifter somehow jumping into reverse when trying for second, but did provide a nice plastic souvenir. I will try to look at an original Scat shifter and make sure the little plate to the right side is in proper position/condition.

Oh, yeah and the beer did taste great after as well.

Cheers, JD

bill may · Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 3:05 pm Post subject:

on 67 and older always put open end of cup towards the passenger /right side of vehicle. otherwise it will get hung up when going in or out of tunnel.
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Vinnems · Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject:

I was not able to put the pushing on the shift rod and then install the whole thing. It kept catching on the edge of the bushing.
I found it really simple to put the bushing in, lube up the shift rod, and push it through. Went in without a fuss.
I also sanded the rod before doing any install to clean metal. That probably helped a lot.

CLASSIC CAR GUY · Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:53 pm Post subject:

CLASSIC CAR GUY · Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:54 pm Post subject:

jdconceptual · Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:11 am Post subject:

No, I didn't. I looked like it was ok, stock german coupler, didn't have any play when tightened down. My shifter is a scat which I believe has the shift lockout built into the bottom. Does that sound right?

Thanks, JD

Aynthm · Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 1:52 am Post subject:

I just did mine and here's how I did it.

Took the original coupler off under the rear inspection plate.
Pulled shifter off after marking plate location.
Removed front tunnel inspection plate and body plate and loosened right side of bumper.

Ran weed wacker line from front to "L" on rod and tied it.
Pulled rod through the front and out.
Wet sanded rod down to shiney metal and cleaned.
Cleaned bushing housing ring after pulling busted bushing off.

Put a small strip around front of new bushing and grease the rear of it and pop it in the retainer ring.
Push cleaned and dry rod in the front and up to bushing.

Loop some weed wacker line around rod at shifter cutout.
Suspend rod with line by attaching other end to grab handle just to keep rod right up against front of bushing.

Coat rod end with lithium grease. Go to front and tape broom handle to "L" shape with duct tape tightly so they act as one.

Steady light blows with rubber mallet. Check to see it rod went into bushing. Yes, about an inch. Grease rod, tap in again. Grease 6 more inches and push rod more. Keep going til rod is visible in cutout.

Keep the grease flowing. Cut off duct tape. Align rod and connect rear coupler.

I bought a new coupler kit and after cleaning the old one I decided to use the old one for 3 reasons. The metal work was professional and still good, the rubber pads were crumbly on the edges but they fit snug into the metal coupler while the after market ones were loose in the new coupler and the old one, the old rubber is slightly bowed on the sides giving it that solid snug fit where the new rubber had sharp straight sides with play all around, and the old screw and shaft were better quality than the new kit, basically a 40 year old coupler was better quality than a brand new piece of chinese junk.

Hooked up the coupler and put a safety wire in it. Greased it and greased the "L" at shifter. Put shifter on and rear cover plate.

Wow...straight thin "H"...Before it was a big fat sloppy "H".

A new bushing really makes the shifting feel tight and precise. It's worth the trouble.

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jorez · Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 12:40 pm Post subject:

Can anyone help with the problem?
I got the rod all the way the the place where it comes out, but it is pushing again the bottom of the hole to pull the rod out. I cannot get anything in there to LIFT the rod UP to get it thru the hole to come out. When looking at the rod from the front to the back, it is againt the passenger side and almost at the bottom of the channel. I cannot lift it UP for the life of my, hands bloody..need help please...sometimes I wish i still drank! LOL

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Shift rod bushing - how to?
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