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Turn signal switch repair
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meach
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

.......an old post but it was helpful today. the great photos of unit breakdown was a jewel.
i decided to take apart because it was sticking. .......and 'pop' that little brass piece and spring was on the floor. and here is all the pics. thanx Very Happy Very Happy
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Free99
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome post, thanks a ton, helped me out alot!
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joemac
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good thread.

This seems as good a place as any to ask: does anyone know what SWF stands for?

I know...Single White Female...

I just like knowing these things. Laughing
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marcodelat
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

meach wrote:
.......an old post but it was helpful today. the great photos of unit breakdown was a jewel...

Now if someone would do the same for a later (68-71) switches... they are a bit different.

Have that plastic cancelling "nib" that often breaks off which is easily replaced.

However, as these are riveted together, getting to the "workings" on the contacts is a bit more "involved".

Little springs & balls in there by the way.

... but these too CAN be taken apart & fixed.

Heard that some of that expensive "electric contact enhancer" can work wonders applied externally - without disassembling.

http://ralaudio.com/stabilant-22-contact-enhancer-m-2.html

joemac wrote:
Good thread.

... does anyone know what SWF stands for?

SWF stands for “Spezial Werkzeugfabrik Feuerbach”.

Nowadays it's SWF / Valeo
http://www.valeoservice.com/html/unitedkingdom/en/...46CDC.html
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Doodoob
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish I would have found this last week when I decided to tear apart and clean mine. O'well it wasnt too bad and works great now.
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tb03830
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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2011 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
If you take it apart, just be careful where you do it - the centering spring can pop out of there and roll away and get lost. The brass contact for the turn signals and the little spring that gives it its tension can also get loose.

I bought an aftermarket 66-67 switch a couple of years ago, and that thing was junk! I wouldn't even use it, it was such a poor copy that the self cancelling parts inside wouldn't work right. I later got me an NOS one off of ebay for a lot less than that 90-120 dollar range that you find german ones for. I'm still waiting for the switch in my baja to kick the bucket, which is why I even bought it...

Which reminds me, has anyone actually seen or tried this thing that CIP1 has for sale? It sure doesn't look stock, and it's cheap, but does it work?

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D113%2D953%2D517%2D9

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


They removed it.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2011 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Removed? Well, that post was from five years ago - I noticed that item got deleted a long time ago - I'm sure they simply had a limited supply and sold them all.

-Andy
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6Kabrio7
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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2011 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the same problem.
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BGLOCOTE
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
vwjedi wrote:
my newly acquired '63 rag has the same problem. I would also be interested in a detailed photo of internals


Okay, heres some pictures! These are larger photos than I normally post, and I put them in the gallery. So you can click on them to enlarge for more detail.

This is a early 60's Ghia switch, of which I've detailed the headlight "clicker" before on. This switch is similar the SWF made switches made from 1960-1967. 1966 and 1967 were black, and have a similar headlight clicker button that this switch has, but that clicker plays no part in taking apart the swtich. (The 60-61, due to the extra complexity of the switch, have multiple contacts inside of them, this one only has one and is much easier to deal with as a result.)

Okay, pic one, the switch before dissembly:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Tip! Get a piece of fine wire, and wrap it around the "tips" of the contact, this way it will stay in place after the switch is apart. Like so:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Step three to disassemble, after wiring up the contact, pry off the center spring steel retaining ring. You'll need a pick or tip of a knife. This particular switch did not have a washer beneath the ring, but I've seen them there before. Here is how it looks with that ring removed:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then you gently pull apart on the two halves of the switch, while rocking it from left turn to right turn. If you are lucky, as I was, the switch will pop apart and the large tensioning spring will stay in place. Often though, it will come flying out so be careful.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The self cancelling parts can pop loose, they need to be engaged as shown above before putting it back together. If they do come disengaged, this is how they might look:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a close up of where the self cancelling assembly rides in the lower half of the housing. This one is in good shape. Both the "grooves" where it rides in, plus the tabs on the self cancelling parts can wear out. When this happens it may no longer lock in place when turning, or it may not self cancel any more. When the base is in good shape but the cancelling tabs are worn or damaged in the arm, I've seen it where you can take the arm from another switch and swap it over and it will work good again.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


To put the switch back together, it needs to be assembled as shown in the pic three up from here. You place the two halves together "centered" - it won't go on all the way, you have to start rocking the swtich from left to right turns as you gently push the two halves together. If you're lucky they will pop together, put the big ring back on, check that it self cancels and you're done. If youre not lucky, the self cancelling parts will pop apart, or the big spring will come out, and you'll have to take it back apart, put them in their proper positions, and try again.


There were other designs of swtiches than this one. In my experience, this is the most common. I think I've seen one where you couldn't "lock" the contact(s) in place before you remove them, if so it's a bitch to get back together again. I've see it where there are discs on either side of the large centering spring. I've seen different designs of the self cancelling tabs/springs. But they are somewhat similar.

-Andy



This works great turn signal switch fixed! Thanks glutamodo I LOVE THESAMBA.COM[/b]
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zabo
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought i would add some more pics & info here- specifically for the 60-61 6 wire switch.

Mine stopped working so out it came. turns out the pressed metal that holds the little arm to the spindle was broken.. allowing the arm to slip off the little spindle. Heres a pic after i tried to reattach it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I tried to peen it back on with no luck. So ended up ordering a new switch.
Here are some other pics for reference.

Contacts
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


springs the contacts lay on top of. Thee contacts are fun to deal with since they literally just balance on top of the springs. with the tabs just hanging in the holes. The springs under the smaller contacts are actually a little longer and thicker than the springs under the larger contacts.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



and the other side of the switch
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, you got one of those! Yeah, those numerous contacts can be PITA to deal with. This style 60-61 switch is a little easier:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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6Kabrio7
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a link to how to outright change the switch on a 67 bug? I'm not interested in trying to repair the original one I bought a replacement. Do you have to remove the steering wheel?
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never seen a procedure for that. It's not that hard... yes you have to take off the steering wheel.

You'll need a 27mm socket and either a breaker bar or a socket with an extension.

You might want to unhook the battery first.

Remove the horn button, disconnect the horn wire and tuck it into the middle of the column. Loosen the 27mm nut a few turns, then pull up on the wheel so it hits the nut (this prevents it from flying free and smacking you in the face later on) then remove the nut - you might want to take a marker and make a mark on the column and wheel so you know for sure what splines they were on. Take off the wheel. In the trunk unhook the 6, 3 or 5 wires - depending on what year, if you feel you might need it take some notes, label wires or take photos to reference later in rewiring. Push the grommet through the hole in the body from inside the trunk. Loosen the screw that holds the switch to the body and then pull it off the column tube and pulling the wires the rest of the way through.

Installation is reverse of that.
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6Kabrio7
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that it is much appreciated.
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www2b
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 5:14 pm    Post subject: 1967 Turn Signal Assembly Reply with quote

I am restoring my 67 bug and I took apart the turn signal assembly and now I don't remember how to put it back together. None of the pictures in this post match my part. The last picture was similar but not exactly the same. I have this little spring on a little round plastic piece that I have no idea where it went. And a little bitty screw. Anybody have any pics of the 67? Thanks
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not a year that's the question, it's the Brand of switch... many of the pictures in this thread are applicable for 1967 switches. You might have to post photos of what you got before we can help you. (I don't recall ever seeing one with any kind of screws or set-screws inside before)
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www2b
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Ok, did I put this back together correctly?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This is the little spring, don't know where it goes
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Everything look ok here?
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no idea where that spring/plastic thing would go... unless it's the spring that fits under the brass contact.

As for the cancel mechanism, I'm not sure if you have the spring in correctly or not. I looked through my photos of that brand of switch and found some varaitions, but none of them looked exacly like what you have. These are the three best photos I could find.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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www2b
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I can see I had one piece in the wrong place. Thanks.
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A67what
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:21 pm    Post subject: Oh this poor topic, so old Reply with quote

and yet so helpful. My 67 turn signal first need to be held to turn on and then wouldn't turn on at all, going to take all this advice home with me and try to see if I can fix mine. Thank you glutamodo for the pics and generic instructions.
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