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Getting ready for winter or other storage FAQ
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bart78
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 3:00 pm    Post subject: Getting ready for winter or other storage FAQ Reply with quote

Hi, I've been reading the posts for awhile now and this is my first time posting....I bought a '76 bus in November, repaired the rust and had new paint put on it with all new seals. It runs great except for a small problem with the shifter when its in fourth. Has too much play and sounds like it grinds a little around turns. i recently found out I am going to be stationed over seas and need to put the bus in storage for four years. What is the best way to get it ready for storage and to bring it out of storage? Are there any places that will store it for you and do basic maintanence on it and keep it running while it is in thier care? Thanks for any help.
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Miguel Arroyo
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wrote the following for a beetle but it can be adapted for a van.

1. Put a can of fuel stabilizer in the tank. Fill the tank, run engine for 10 to 15 minutes to make sure the fuel stabilizer makes it all the way to the carburetor. Top off the fuel. Or totally remove all fuel from tank, run engine until it dies.
2. Change the engine oil
3. Change the gear oil
4. Replace the brake fluid starting at the furthest wheel and finishing with the front left.
5. Grease the front beam
6. Change the oil in the air filter if you have the stock one
7. Adjust the valves
8. Do a full tune up. New plugs, point, fuel filter, rotor, cap, etc.
9. This is a good time to consider replacement of the rubber fuel lines.
10. Clean the engine compartment
11. Clean the underside of the car
12. Inflate all tires to the maximum recommended on the sidewalls.
13. Fully detail the car, including a top quality wax job and dressing of all plastic and rubber parts. Park car inside of a garage.
14. Jack the car 1 to 2 inches so the tires do not hold all the weight.
15. Remove each plug and pour in about 1 to 2 ounces of regular engine oil or marvel mystery oil. Using a wrench or the starter (remove coil cable to distributor since you do not want the engine to start) rotate the engine a few revs to get the oil on all upper portions of the cylinder head.
16. Put steel wool on the exhaust tip. Put a piece of plastic also at the end held in place with a rubber band. This is intended to stop critters from nesting inside your exhaust.
15. Using a large plastic bag put it over the fan assembly and air filter inlet to prevent critters making it in that route.
16. Make sure all the hoses in the heating system are in good shape and connected at the ends. Metal ones are better to prevent animals from coming in.
17. Remove the battery. Clean area; if you find rust treat it with POR 15 or equivalent. Top of the battery cells and store battery in a cool dry place (above freezing).
18. Get three plastic containers. Fill with cedar shavings, and then put in trunk, cab, and engine compartment.
19. Get 2 damp rid. Put one in the trunk and another in the cab.
20. Open the glove door and the ashtray.
21. Do not engage the emergency brake. It most likely will freeze on you during the long months of not being used.
22. Close the doors, trunk, and lid. But do not fully compress the rubber. This is specially important with the doors and pop out windows. Note: Dress all rubber gaskets.
23. Get a sheet of plastic and lay below your car. This prevents moisture that comes up thru the slab from causing any rust in your car.
24. Get a breathable cover and cover your car.
25. Check the damp rid and cedar shavings at least every two weeks and replace/drain as needed
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barefootwestie
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whew! Now that is a list. Great Post.
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Miguel Arroyo
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope it helps.
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VWLover77
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This should be a sticky!!!

Also, would it be worth removing the pushrods to relieve the valve spring pressure on the cam, and to seal the cylinders?

Don
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bart78
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the great info!!!
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Miguel Arroyo
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope it helps.
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dwill49965
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Miguel Arroyo wrote:
19. Get 2 damp rid. Put one in the trunk and another in the cab.
25. Check the damp rid and cedar shavings at least every two weeks and replace/drain as needed


Pardon my ignorance, but what is a "rid" and what is their purpose?
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JMazier
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dwill49965 wrote:
Miguel Arroyo wrote:
19. Get 2 damp rid. Put one in the trunk and another in the cab.
25. Check the damp rid and cedar shavings at least every two weeks and replace/drain as needed


Pardon my ignorance, but what is a "rid" and what is their purpose?


Try this site http://www.chemnet.com/show/damprid/
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Miguel Arroyo
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cjmazier wrote:
dwill49965 wrote:
Miguel Arroyo wrote:
19. Get 2 damp rid. Put one in the trunk and another in the cab.
25. Check the damp rid and cedar shavings at least every two weeks and replace/drain as needed


Pardon my ignorance, but what is a "rid" and what is their purpose?


Try this site http://www.chemnet.com/show/damprid/


It works very well, I have used it on various ocassions.
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VWKC
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:38 pm    Post subject: Taking a Ghia out of storage Reply with quote

Any tips on taking a Ghia out of storage? I'm in the process of purchasing a previously well-maintained 1971 Ghia that has been sitting in a garage for 1-2 years. I think it has fuel stablizer in it, but otherwise it is just sitting, calmly, under a car cover.

Thanks in advance.
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Zelten
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before everyone jumps all over you. You are in the Bay Bus forum. Check out the Ghia section. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=7
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VWKC
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zelten wrote:
Before everyone jumps all over you. You are in the Bay Bus forum. Check out the Ghia section. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=7


Ahh, well thanks. I hadn't noticed that. This thread is a sticky over on the Ghia section and apparently links here...

Say I had a generic air-cooled VW, what would be the best practice for taking said vehicle out of storage?
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

71 ghia has same engine as early bus. ..FUEL ... drain out old gas..empty fuel filter and carb bowl ...replace rubber fuel lines...add new gas .......ELECTRICAL...replace/charge battery......BRAKES .."brake fluid absorbes moisture"...bleed brakes with new fluid...after pumping brakes several times check for fluid leaks onto brake drums. Future ghia questions should be on the ghia forum...good luck
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VWKC
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grandpa pete wrote:
71 ghia has same engine as early bus. ..FUEL ... drain out old gas..empty fuel filter and carb bowl ...replace rubber fuel lines...add new gas .......ELECTRICAL...replace/charge battery......BRAKES .."brake fluid absorbes moisture"...bleed brakes with new fluid...after pumping brakes several times check for fluid leaks onto brake drums. Future ghia questions should be on the ghia forum...good luck


Excellent, thanks for the information! It's actually my father's car--I suspect his strategy would be to just put in a fresh battery and crank away, but I'm hoping to own this car for another 40 years so I'd like to destroy as little as possible when getting it back into running shape. Thanks again.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWKC wrote:
grandpa pete wrote:
71 ghia has same engine as early bus. ..FUEL ... drain out old gas..empty fuel filter and carb bowl ...replace rubber fuel lines...add new gas .......ELECTRICAL...replace/charge battery......BRAKES .."brake fluid absorbes moisture"...bleed brakes with new fluid...after pumping brakes several times check for fluid leaks onto brake drums. Future ghia questions should be on the ghia forum...good luck


Excellent, thanks for the information! It's actually my father's car--I suspect his strategy would be to just put in a fresh battery and crank away, but I'm hoping to own this car for another 40 years so I'd like to destroy as little as possible when getting it back into running shape. Thanks again.

Good advice Gramps, I'll add a rodent nest check of the cooling system and a remove the plugs and crank till the oil light goes out before the initial startup to that.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 5:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah the mice in my neighborhood once stored a couple of cups of dry dog food in my Winterized Golwing's air filter box and made a big nest on top of my Z28's engine. Since they had the dog food they left my wires and hoses alone. I better go check my bus!
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWLover77 wrote:
This should be a sticky!!!

Also, would it be worth removing the pushrods to relieve the valve spring pressure on the cam, and to seal the cylinders?

Don


Anyone have thoughts on pulling pushrods? I am curious about doing that as well.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just rotate the engine by hand every few weeks so that none of the metal parts contact the same position too long, and the springs aren't static for 5-6 months
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to pull rockers/pushrods,unless u have dual valve springs Laughing
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