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Madeouttaglass Samba Member
Joined: September 18, 2013 Posts: 228 Location: Shelter Cove, California
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mtnhome Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2010 Posts: 496 Location: Summit County, CO
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Posted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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Another PSA for any Denver area people looking for a set of G-60's. I took a friend to DIA this morning and stopped at the Denver U-Pull & Pay on the way back to the mtns. There is a white Audi in, I think row I-14, with a set of G-60's that looked in good shape. If you need to rebuild them, Bigg Red on ebay has kits and will ship to the US. _________________ '84 Westy, '93 Subaru ej22 and Subarugears 5speed
Build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=763098&highlight= |
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Wellington Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2004 Posts: 1884 Location: Montreal
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kuleinc Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2007 Posts: 1604 Location: East Bay Area, California
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 5:03 am Post subject: |
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kuleinc wrote: |
I've read through 14 pages and can't make heads or tails of what is need to bolt the G60 calipers to the front of my 2WD vanagon. Are guys making custom brackets? Which rotors? I have a 2WD not a Syncro... |
The adapter / spacer is a no brainer....adding a hub to the front of a 2wd is what hangs most people up.
Just buy SA hubs if you have coin. |
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kuleinc Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2007 Posts: 1604 Location: East Bay Area, California
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j_dirge Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 4641 Location: Twain Harte, CA
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:41 am Post subject: |
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kuleinc wrote: |
So if a buy SA hubs or turn my rotors down to hubs, buy g60 calipers, pads and rotors. The adapter should be self evident? |
If you are turning down the OEM Vanagon hubs to use.. then there is no "adapter" per say.. The G-60 bolt holes line up very close to the Vanagon bolts holes.
You will need to drill out the bolt holes to create a proper fit.. And then use slightly larger bolts.
The Audi disk hat (which slides on over your turned down Vanagon hub, results in the disk being spaced out about 7-8mm.. And to compensate for that you can use spacers between the G-60 caliper face and the Vanagon spindle face.
OR you can machine a one piece bracket/spacer.
If you want to see a home brewed set up.. I have several pics I can share with you.. and/or next time you're in the city, swing by my place and I can remove a wheel and you can see first hand.
I do not have sizing info on the SA hub.. I opted to turn down the existing hubs from the get go.
However, I would very much like to have back a few mm of offset in the front. If a set of these hubs ever fall in my lap.. I'll try them out. _________________ -89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:17 am Post subject: |
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Depending upon which rotor you choose to use, you will compensate with a "spacer" for the caliper...to center it onto the rotor.
You can get very fancy and backspace and or use adapters for differing than 5x112 mounting patterns for wheels.
Longer braided lines and stud conversions work into the equation, so thinking about the suspension and other stuff as it relates to brakes, really helps narrow down exactly what you need. |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:22 am Post subject: |
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One very nice features of the SA hubs is that they are brand new.
With some having such issues with wheel bearings, mounting new bearings into new hubs is really sweet. |
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kevinm Samba Member
Joined: September 08, 2008 Posts: 117 Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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I have a syncro and am curious which rotors I can use so as to avoid the spacer entirely. I have the calipers and carriers, do not plan to lift more than 1", and would like to continue to use the existing brake routing. TIA.
- Kevin |
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kuleinc Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2007 Posts: 1604 Location: East Bay Area, California
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BenT Syncro Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2005 Posts: 1085 Location: San Francisco
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 2:11 am Post subject: |
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kevinm wrote: |
I have a syncro and am curious which rotors I can use so as to avoid the spacer entirely. I have the calipers and carriers, do not plan to lift more than 1", and would like to continue to use the existing brake routing. TIA.
- Kevin |
Kevin,
This is an old and long drawn out thread which may have already answered your question in one of the past 24 pages. Your question needs clarification.
1) what caliper and carriers do you have?
2) 14" or 16" Syncro?
3) what size wheel do you have? _________________ BenT |
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kuleinc Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2007 Posts: 1604 Location: East Bay Area, California
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BenT Syncro Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2005 Posts: 1085 Location: San Francisco
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:11 am Post subject: |
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kuleinc wrote: |
I think it would be very helpful to post the pertinent upgrade information in the first post and make this part of the FAQ? Maybe a mod can help with this? I read through 14 pages hoping to find the right info, before I gave up and just posted a reply with questions, just making the thread longer... |
Someone has to distillate the information first because several options are available. If someone is going to do that, they need to specify that inquirers should provide accurate information about their vehicle to receive more specific responses. _________________ BenT |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:23 am Post subject: |
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BenT Syncro wrote: |
kuleinc wrote: |
I think it would be very helpful to post the pertinent upgrade information in the first post and make this part of the FAQ? Maybe a mod can help with this? I read through 14 pages hoping to find the right info, before I gave up and just posted a reply with questions, just making the thread longer... |
Someone has to distillate the information first because several options are available. If someone is going to do that, they need to specify that inquirers should provide accurate information about their vehicle to receive more specific responses. |
AMEN
This question has been asked for almost a decade now...most just mock it up, make the needed parts and enjoy.
Others keep scratching their head or looking for more detailed instructions.
Buy a kit if building from scratch is beyond your skill set please. |
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j_dirge Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 4641 Location: Twain Harte, CA
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:30 am Post subject: |
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kuleinc wrote: |
I think it would be very helpful to post the pertinent upgrade information in the first post and make this part of the FAQ? Maybe a mod can help with this? I read through 14 pages hoping to find the right info, before I gave up and just posted a reply with questions, just making the thread longer... |
Pretty much everything you need to know is in DClymer's post... on page 1
D Clymer wrote: |
So it sounds like the SA hubs are available for less than $200. That's really the key to the front setup. Just get some used G60 calipers and have them redrilled for the 86 and newer Vanagon caliper carriers. Buy some new 276mm rotors, make some spacers for the calipers, and you're good to go.
I wouldn't worry too much about the harsh disclaimer on the fastforward site. He's just trying to protect himself. The setup should work fine. I've owned several Audi quattros with this brake setup, and they had pretty reassuring stopping power and weighed similarly to a Vanagon.
If I can get the hubs, I'll probably go ahead and use these fronts. My 2.5 165hp Bluestar needs better brakes.
David |
Except that SA hubs are no longer $200.
The re-drilling of the holes needs to be done by you as you engineer your own setup.. And positioning the caliper for those holes has to be a one-at-a-time type deal. I don't think trying to spec it is a good idea. To many variables in people's approach.
Like-wise for the spacers used to place the caliper in plane properly for the disk.
This is a case by case basis and may depend on how you turn down your OEM hubs and/or if you can find a set of the SA hubs.
As an example, you can turn the faces of your hubs down by a mm or two to buy back some wheel offset.. and if you choose to do that, then your spacers will be a different thickness than mine.
1. Source the calipers. Rebuild them.
2. Source the rotors and turn your hubs to fit those. Buy a second set of rotors for your spare parts collection so that you don't need to re-turn the hubs in the future.
3. Once the hubs are turned, you will know where the disk falls in with the caliper and you can measure for spacers.. We made ours a little big and turned them down for a precise fit.
4. Buy new flex brake lines.. I used SS braided with no banjo fitting.. next time I might add the banjo so that the line flexes in a more comfortable manner.
Its not that difficult, but does require some back and forth and patience in machining.
But is really hard to give precise info for this project unless you have the parts sitting in front of you.. and having the parts in front of you will answer 95-100% of your how-to questions.
IIRC there are three sizes of rotors you can use.. from 278-312. 312s barely fit under 16" wheels and may not fit on some 16" steel wheels..
The larger disks may require more of a bracket approach to set the caliper further off the hub center.
Eventually I am going to set up some 312s.
OR.. you can buy the SC set up and just bolt them up. _________________ -89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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CHARLIE-DONT-SURF Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2007 Posts: 332 Location: Cow County, UK
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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j_dirge wrote: |
312s barely fit under 16" wheels and may not fit on some 16" steel wheels..
The larger disks may require more of a bracket approach to set the caliper further off the hub center.
Eventually I am going to set up some 312s.
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If you are on about VAG calipers etc, only difference between 312 and 288 , besides disc , is the caliper carrier.
Caliper is exactly the same single pot across the whole range just about, carrier spaces caliper out more. Not sure what they go for your side of the pond but easy enough to get over this side.
Got 288s on mine and want to go 312 under 16" syncro steelies but need to find out if they fit. If not,I've got a pair of carriers if you can't get any. Postage might be a blow though. |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:31 pm Post subject: |
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312mm rotors are not a direct bolt on application.
An adapter, plus backspacing will be needed, not just a spacer as the smaller diameter rotors can get away with.
312mm rotors are easily fit to Syncro 16 uprights. |
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CHARLIE-DONT-SURF Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2007 Posts: 332 Location: Cow County, UK
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry, wasn't clear. I have spacers and plenty of places sell them for €100.
Early 2wd uprights need spot facing IIRC to make them fit.
Sorry for typing half a post |
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BenT Syncro Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2005 Posts: 1085 Location: San Francisco
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not sure if this has been addressed but the limitation on the size of the disc is the arc of the caliper. Too big and they start making contact with the front/rear edges of the caliper body. _________________ BenT |
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