67 Drum Brake, Press In Lug Nut Studs

[Pfc J]

Ok, I searched and found a few topics on drum brake lug nut stud problems.

My 67 has the wide 5 pattern all the way around with the threaded screw in lug nut studs for aftermarket wheels. Even using a torque wrench set at 80 lbs the studs were pulling right out of there own threads. Decided to tackle this issue today and heres what I did.

Napa part #641-1264 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.as...lt+-+Front
is a M12x1.5x36 with a Knurl Diameter of 12.22mm and a Shoulder Length of 9mm. My lug nuts are 1.5 pitch, the 2 things that are really important is the knurl diameter and shoulder length. The 12.22mm diameter was the perfect size after drilling out the old threads and the 9mm shoulder length made sure that the back of the studs didn't hit any brake hardware once installed.

I just removed the drums, unscrewed the old studs, drilled out the threads, then pounded in my new "press in" studs from the back. Worked llike a charm and no more worries. Solid as it's gonna get.

I hope this helps out somebody

[BeasleyBug]

Sure... Sounds like you got it handled well. My son's 1967 wide five drums had that done to them by the P/O They work fine.
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Regards
Happy VW-ING
Jack
1977 Tpl Wt. Champagne Vert
1967 Resto-Mod Beetle

[slowtwitch]

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

The Forum search did its job this time.. I know its old post, but...recently had my share of problems using screw in studs for the first (and last) time. Pulled the threads clean from the front drums. I used the above post information, and Ill ad some additional to include.... US inch measurements.

The Napa part 641-1264 crosses over to the common Dorman 98436, which just so happens to fit most Honda Civics ( I used 2004). The shank just below the knurls measured .461, and at the knurls measured .488. I measured 10 studs and they were pretty consistant. The drill bit I used was 31/64ths (.484 mine measured .480) and it will clean the threads completely and I only made one pass. The holes measured close to .480 when I was finished. I did grind the head down of the stud to between .130 and .140, just be sure it clears the brake hardware. Also used LocTite on the shank near the knurls and pressed them in.
Beautiful thing..
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aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
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[drscope]

Now comes the hard part....finding lug nuts with the right seat to fit your wheels.
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[runamoc]

[rs58rag]

When installing those chrome aftermarket lugnuts with protruding center, make sure the center portion of the lugnut does not bottom out on brake drum. Bottoming out on brake drums then torquing them causes a hydaulic affect on stud that pulls threads out. Check lugs center length against depth of hole in rim and either trim bottom of lugnuts or buy shorter ones. Lug should not protrude past depth of rim lughole. I ran into this installalling set of big five fuchs style rims.

[bill may]

brazilian drums are softer than og german.this is common when drums are replaced.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=453617

[ejonn]

Just bringing this thread back to the front as I am dealing with pulled out threads in mine 65.

Should probably put it in "thank my PO for" thread.....

How about 2 lugs on a cheap ass new front drum that were stripped out and then put in with the ol' JB....
I found out when one of the lugs was rolling around in my hubcap. (bad evil scary noise!!! )

Gonna pick these up and press them in for now, I'll update as I do it to confirm the parts work out OK.
I also will c/bore the drum....not grind the head....For clearance

Dorman:
Stud #98436 (O'rielly/Kragen #610-269.1)
Nut #98995 (O'rielly/Kragen #611-144.1)
Timken seal #224045

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

I like having as much metal on the drum as now the clamping pressure is pulled from the inside, rather than the threads. It doesnt take much to grind down the head of the stud to clear. Plus I also ground some off the side that fits near the inside diameter of the drum, so when pressd in the stud rest as flat as possible. Counter boring removes precious metal that cant be put back. Studs can be replaced.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[ejonn]

Put that way, Probably a better idea. the big ass belt sander makes easy work of it. Did the .130" head thickness work out ok?

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

No updates from me means all is well.
I really dont even think it was necessary to grind the heads a littel thinner. I just did as a precaution, only because thats what was required to clear the wear pattern for the shoes. Better safe than sorry. I didnt want to have to bang the studs back out. I like a one time fit. Nice and snug.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[ejonn]

Reamed to .4844" and counterbored to .750" so the head sits just below the drum machined radius.
I chose to go ahead and c'bore because of the webs in the casting. The head wouldnt sit anywhere near flush, so a spot face would be required at a minimum.
Pressed them in with green "high strength" Loctite.

I feel way better with these instead of the stock lug bolts. Especially with the "premium quality" Brazilian high quality metal.

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

What lugnuts did you choose. Do tell. Be specific.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[ejonn]

I used the ones i posted a couple posts back. Pretty shiny chrome. Although i may keep looking at some others because the ball is a little smaller than i think i like. I will put a few miles on them, pull them off and look at where the rim/nut contact spot on the nut is.

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

Ok just checking..
They will be a little small, but do the trick.
Just be sure the very bottom of the nut (center inner) doesnt, "bottom" out on the drum surface before its tight. It will give a false impression the wheel is tight when its not. You can use some paint, marking compound, or light coat of grease as a guide.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[ejonn]

Double checked and the nuts have a good contact markoff at about 1/4 of the way up the ball with no apparent booming. Torqued at 65 ftlb.
Nice!!

[MMW]

I did this on my 65'. One drum done yesterday. I found that a 31/64 drill did not allow for a tight enough fit. Next drum I will try a 15/32" drill bit. I used the part number mentioned from NAPA 641-1264. I did not grind down the heads at all & no clearance issues.

Previous owner had put two heli-coils in with lug bolts the were of questionable length. No wonder it didn't feel right. I had to make a few small tack welds on the knurled part of the stud for these two studs to fit tight when pressed in.

For lug nuts I ordered Dorman 611-201. These are a ball seat. Hopefully they fit fine. http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=26456&SEName=611-201

Removed heli-coils.

Carefully ground down the drum so the stud would sit flat. You can see the two holes at 3 o'clock & 7 o'clock where the heli-coils were.

Pressed in.

_________________
Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle

[Heathen64]

MMW

Do you have the wider brake pads or the thinner ones?

I have the wide pads on my '64. I would like to install these studs without countersinking them like you did, but worry about clearance issues.

Thanks

[MMW]

I honestly don't know what width shoes I have. I just lightly ground the drum flat where the head of the stud sits. You can see this in one of the pics.
_________________
Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle