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How many of you have Bay tanks in your Split?
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KevinAlbrecht wrote:
peaceful warrior wrote:


Kevin, what about running it thru a Bay Charcoal canister somewhere above the right rear fender well.....there seems to be enough room to mount one?


Yeah, that sounds like an idea. I like the Bay filler neck that pipes it back in, but that kinda defeats the idea of venting the tank, doesn't it?


I think I have a few, so I am going to check it out, but I would not bring it back to the tank, just in between the tank and then vent into the filler neck area.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tstracy39 wrote:
You must use a standardized sender. IE, one of these:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?Sender=VDO_Adjustable
Splitbus fuel gauges operate on 90 to zero ohms resistance. Bay fuel gauges operate on something completely different. A splitbus fuel gauge will not be even remotely accurate on a Bay sending unit.


The later bay sender reads roughly the same in terms of resistance. I measured mine to be around 75 ohms empty and near 0 when full. I'm sure I can adjust one a bit.

(see this thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=380693

and http://www.type2.com/library/misc/vwggauge.htm)

I'm going to try and dig up a late bay or bug gauge stabilizer and put it in the circuit with the stock split bus gauge to see if it resolves the bouncy needle issue. I'll try it on the bench with a sender.
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KevinAlbrecht
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peaceful warrior wrote:
KevinAlbrecht wrote:
peaceful warrior wrote:


Kevin, what about running it thru a Bay Charcoal canister somewhere above the right rear fender well.....there seems to be enough room to mount one?


Yeah, that sounds like an idea. I like the Bay filler neck that pipes it back in, but that kinda defeats the idea of venting the tank, doesn't it?


I think I have a few, so I am going to check it out, but I would not bring it back to the tank, just in between the tank and then vent into the filler neck area.


Let us know how it goes! I just have a fuel filter clamped to the end by the filler neck.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KevinAlbrecht wrote:
peaceful warrior wrote:
KevinAlbrecht wrote:
peaceful warrior wrote:


Kevin, what about running it thru a Bay Charcoal canister somewhere above the right rear fender well.....there seems to be enough room to mount one?


Yeah, that sounds like an idea. I like the Bay filler neck that pipes it back in, but that kinda defeats the idea of venting the tank, doesn't it?


I think I have a few, so I am going to check it out, but I would not bring it back to the tank, just in between the tank and then vent into the filler neck area.


Let us know how it goes! I just have a fuel filter clamped to the end by the filler neck.


I sure will!
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not happy with the bay tank in my old bus. Invariably I overfill it and get spilled gas stink when cornering hard. In my new old bus I'm sticking with the stock tank.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont have that problem as I went with a non vented cap, and just vented the tank with charcoal. Also on the cornering hard and stinking, I decided to track down the stink. Turns out my 40 year old rubber connecting the filler neck with cracks just wasnt cutting it. When I decided to go with a non vented cap and seal the liquid gold in the tank, instead of 87 octane heater vent air freshener, I just reused the old rubber. Thats when the rubber cracked enough to majorly leak when I filled up. Thats when I was determined to find fuel hose, and found napa had it, since they are known to carry some stuff for farm equipment.
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Last edited by quartermilecamel on Tue Oct 30, 2012 12:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crofty wrote:
Thanks.

Your vw(very welcome)
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tstracy39
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...
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Last edited by tstracy39 on Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tstracy39 wrote:
...I no longer sell Splitbus fuel gauges rebuilt and converted to 12 Volts...


Although I don't agree, I thought the majority of gauge gender changers said to just run the 6 volt gauge on 12 volts.

What is the true answer and what physically is the difference in your professional opinion? Dstefun once said there was an in-line 90+ ohm resistor on the factory 12 volt gauges if I remember right.
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tstracy39
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...
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Last edited by tstracy39 on Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found I have a later Ghia speedo with fuel gauge that I am going to try to fit in the bus since I have no fuel gauge at the moment and I am not concerned about going stock at this point. Hope is it will fit and also work with the Bay sender. Still have not installed the tank yet, as I am still trying to clean a lot of grease and dirt out of the engine bay.
I'll let you know if it works out.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it done using the Bay vent tube. I did not install the charcoal filter as I want to experiment without it. Should not be too difficult to add though.
Here are some photos of the finish product. Wink
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I took a couple of photos of the vent tube into the filler area, but they came out poorly. I will try again later.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did this conversion this past weekend. I welded the vent tube to the filler neck for maximum filling.
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amotomura
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am in the process of putting a bay tank in my 63. My bay tank was a bit rusty inside, so I researched gas tank liners and could not find a DIY one that I trusted. I did find a local shop that does the "RENU" process. They charged $200 and had the tank done in 3 days. ( they offered to do it for less if I didn't want the outside done). I couldn't find anyone with bad experiences with this coating. The only thing that bothers me a tiny bit is that they drill a hole in a top corner. I've attached pictures of the finished tank if anyone is interested... I was pretty happy with the results!

By the way, how are people dealing with the filler tube? I can cut the filler off of my old tank, but would rather not cut a perfectly good split tank. The bay tank has a filler tube, but does not have a way to attach a filler cap?!?



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Hole drilled and plugged:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Inside of tank (notice plug in top right of picture):
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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RPGreg2600
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a late tank, will that even work? I see it has 2 fuel outlets on the bottom? Wtf? Fuel injected shit? Those don't unscrew like an earlier tank? Doubt that thing will slide with those things hanging down. What will you do with the extra one?
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amotomura
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tank fits very well even with extra fitting. It actually sits nice and flat, I don't have the rocking issue that some other tanks seem to have. Not completely sure what to do with extra fitting. Might cap it off, or T the two together... Maybe one can run to a future gas heater.

I'll post a pic later of it fitted in place.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

amotomura wrote:

By the way, how are people dealing with the filler tube? I can cut the filler off of my old tank, but would rather not cut a perfectly good split tank. The bay tank has a filler tube, but does not have a way to attach a filler cap?!?


If you look at my photos above, I used a Bay Filler pipe with cap. It took a bit of time and a couple of tries, but I cut the Bay neck right where it begins to bend and then took all of it with dimensions to a muffler shop. They bent new pipe and then welded it to the original.

With the cap section, I made up a ring of thickest galvanized metal I could find.
I drilled it out with a metal hole saw to slip over the neck. I aligned it pre-installation and pre-drilled the holes for sheet metal screws. When I did the installation, I slipped the new soft line further up the fill pipe then needed, set it all in place and had a helper hold it, then I screwed three sheet metal screws thru the flange of the Bay filler neck into the galvanized ring, which pulled it tight and sandwiched it between the original split spill tray.
Then slipped the soft hose down onto the tank and clamped both sides. I have filled it up now, with no leaks.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

amotomura wrote:
Tank fits very well even with extra fitting. It actually sits nice and flat, I don't have the rocking issue that some other tanks seem to have. Not completely sure what to do with extra fitting. Might cap it off, or T the two together... Maybe one can run to a future gas heater.

I'll post a pic later of it fitted in place.


Crazy. I had to take the fitting off the bottom of the tank to get it in, and even then it was still a struggle.
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tstracy39
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Late Bay tanks are a bad idea anyway because they severely limit the types of sending units that can be fitted. 1968 to 72 tanks can take any sending unit with a standardized bolt pattern, including any aftermarket sending units currently being produced by VDO or Autometer. Post 72 tanks can only be fitted with the stock post-72 Baywindow sending unit, which causes a stock Splitbus fuel gauge to perform all crappy and be inaccurate. I have a couple custom fit sending units left, VDO jacked up the wholesale price so if I ever get any more, they will be more expensive.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
Andrew wrote:


If you had unlimited fuel it is best to keep it driving especially on long trips. You body is what needs to stop and that's up to you. I've been on trips where the next driver slid in behind the last driver and we pe*d in cups.


Shocked were you running for the law, heading to the border? Laughing
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