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sand rail wiring
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craigman
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 3:03 pm    Post subject: sand rail wiring Reply with quote

Fellas,
can someone tell me where i can get a wiring schematic for a sand rail?
I just got a rail given to me, and the wiring is a mess. I need just the basics,,, just to get it fired up. It's an old one that's still 6V. I would like to convert it to 12. I have an extra externally regulated 12V generator and coil. For now, it's gonna be very basic. It's got a on/off switch for power and a push button switch for starting.

Thanks guys!
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The basics

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zukifish
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 5:18 pm    Post subject: wiring Reply with quote

Is there one for a alternator? Or is it the same?
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which alt. do you have ? Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Maybe
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Or possibly

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craigman
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks USMCord1!
Thats a big help! Very Happy
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durantony
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive tried this diagram but my motor does not turn off. Turns on fine though. Any ideas on what may be the problem.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like you have a feed back from the alternator to ignition switch. Depending on what kind of ignition switch you have changing the wiring on the switch.
One other thing you can do is install a diode inline in wiring to idiot light from alternator so voltage can go to alternator from switch and not the other way.
Somewhere on this site a diagram of it has been posted of how to do it.
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

durantony wrote:
Ive tried this diagram but my motor does not turn off. Turns on fine though. Any ideas on what may be the problem.


could it be the coil always has power on, even when the key is off??? get a volt meter and find out, test ground to the + (15) terminal on the coil, that terminal should be zero volts except when the key switch is in the run and start positions. When the switch is in start or run position that terminal should have 12 volts on it. Problem could be as simple as a miss wire at the key switch such that the wire to the coil is constantly hooked up to the 12 volts supply wire at the switch. Will the motor stop if you pull the +(15) wire off the coil? If so that confirms you got 12 volts on that wire all the time. Is anything else hooked up to terminal +(15) at the coil?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a alternator... You can disconnect D+ wire for a test and if motor stops you need diode... Or disconnect D+ wire and start it up and shut it off, if it shuts off properly you need diode..

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I use a Radio Shack diode rated at 6 amp and 50 PIV (peak inverse voltage) should be about $1.99 for two...

This would also work...

http://www.radioshack.com/1n4001-micro-1a-diodes/2761101.html

http://www.radioshack.com/3a-barrel-diodes/2761141.html

Dale
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Aerindel
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So then is it possible to a have a power leak backwards through the D+ line that drains the battery?

Lately I've been having an issue with my battery being dead after a few days of not running. Engine starts and stops as normal but It seems I'm loosing .1 or .2 volts per day somehow, even if I pull all my fuses.

Looking at the diagram (mine is wired almost the same way) it looks like the only way to have a drain that bypasses the fuse block is through the alternator.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aerindel wrote:
So then is it possible to a have a power leak backwards through the D+ line that drains the battery?

Lately I've been having an issue with my battery being dead after a few days of not running. Engine starts and stops as normal but It seems I'm loosing .1 or .2 volts per day somehow, even if I pull all my fuses.

Looking at the diagram (mine is wired almost the same way) it looks like the only way to have a drain that bypasses the fuse block is through the alternator.


could happen the col would then be always on via the idiot light. Turn the key switch off and measure the voltage at the hot wire to the coil. remove the wire to measure voltage to ground, it should be zero if key is off.

also see if the motor will turn off if you remove the idiot light bulb, if so that would confirm that is the problem. a diode could fix this, however if the system was not designed for this diode, why do not all the cars wired this way fail to shut off, could there be a diode in the alternator that has failed that causes you motor to not shut off?

also be aware that you motor could be running on from dieseling. confirm this is not the case by removing the hot wire on the coil, if she still runs on, then the engine is dieseling. if she then stopped you know you have current on the wire that should not be there.

good luck
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mostly the problem stems for the size of light bulb used for idiot light....

None of my buggies has this problem, but IT IS THE FIX for those that do...

This is proper bulb if running standard idiot light in speedo...

https://www.westcoastmetric.com/product/N-177-222/bulb_dash_lightbr12_volt

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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aerindel wrote:
So then is it possible to a have a power leak backwards through the D+ line that drains the battery?

Lately I've been having an issue with my battery being dead after a few days of not running. Engine starts and stops as normal but It seems I'm loosing .1 or .2 volts per day somehow, even if I pull all my fuses.

Looking at the diagram (mine is wired almost the same way) it looks like the only way to have a drain that bypasses the fuse block is through the alternator.


Battery going dead after a dew days suggest a drain on battery or battery is going bad...

Does battery go dead if disconnected for a few days?

Dale
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...... and not keyboard jockeys that just have high post counts


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durantony
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont have a volt meter as of now but i have a test light and it turns on when i touch the ignition post of the switch where i have the coil and i alsi have the d+ from alternator to that post. And i know my alternator charges cause i can discinnect bat. A diode will prevent feedback from alt.????? What would be that reason for gettin power from d+ on alt. ?
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durantony
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When engine is running and key is on off position there is power to coil, how ever when i kill the engine there is no power to coil when ignition is off but there is when in start and on position
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With key off or engine not running, alternator should be putting out a ground on D+..... Sounds like the regulator in alt may have a problem.... Try the diode, its way cheaper and easier then changing alternator or replacing regulator......

Dale
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

durantony wrote:
I dont have a volt meter as of now but i have a test light and it turns on when i touch the ignition post of the switch where i have the coil and i alsi have the d+ from alternator to that post. And i know my alternator charges cause i can discinnect bat. A diode will prevent feedback from alt.????? What would be that reason for gettin power from d+ on alt. ?


Do you have idiot light in circuit?

Dale
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durantony
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks alot guys i put a diode in and it is now working. Turns off with the key. Anything i might have to look out for in the future.? And i do not have an idiot light would it be a good idea to put one. And i know my alt. Is charging i put a voltmeter and it is reading 14.5.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

durantony wrote:
Thanks alot guys i put a diode in and it is now working. Turns off with the key. Anything i might have to look out for in the future.? And i do not have an idiot light would it be a good idea to put one. And i know my alt. Is charging i put a voltmeter and it is reading 14.5.


The problem is you do not have idiot light!... Its part of charging circuit, that is probably why you experienced run on.... You should have one...Its also a very good indicator you may have lost fan belt there for lost cooling...

Dale
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Aerindel
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. The idiot light isn't just a light, its a resistor that sets up the field charge to make the alternator work. It also has to be a 'real' light bulb, an LED won't cut it.
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