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xnakx Samba Member
Joined: August 20, 2005 Posts: 237 Location: Under my car
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Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 11:51 pm Post subject: |
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In the process of replacing all 4 balljoints. all is going well but the new upper joints do not have the offcenter cam. am i supposed to remove and reuse the old one? _________________ -- The Backyard Butcher --
66 Sedan WIP (Work In Progress) |
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Glenn Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 76760 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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xnakx Samba Member
Joined: August 20, 2005 Posts: 237 Location: Under my car
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Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:50 am Post subject: |
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like a idiot i did not pay attention when removing the old ballpoints. can anyone tell me what direction the notches should face? _________________ -- The Backyard Butcher --
66 Sedan WIP (Work In Progress) |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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xnakx wrote: |
like a idiot i did not pay attention when removing the old ballpoints. can anyone tell me what direction the notches should face? |
6 and 12 o'clock.. the joints need to move forward/backward... pull the rubber off an old one and check out the way the joint moves if you want |
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DutchDub Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2006 Posts: 103 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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What about this tool. Worked well for me!
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:06 am Post subject: |
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DutchDub wrote: |
What about this tool. Worked well for me!
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That tool is not for pressing the ball joint out of torsion arm and re installing a new one... just for separating it from the spindle. |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13382 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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keifernet wrote: |
DutchDub wrote: |
What about this tool. Worked well for me!
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That tool is not for pressing the ball joint out of torsion arm and re installing a new one... just for separating it from the spindle. |
People or companies love to sell things. I have never used one of those to seperate the ball joint stud from the spindle/knuckle. Loosen the nut of the ball joint leaving it on just a few threads. Smack the spindle/knuckle with a hammer where the ball joint stud goes through and they pop loose. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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Oakley Diesel Samba Member
Joined: July 09, 2006 Posts: 523 Location: Lubbock, TX
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Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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You can send your arm's to cb for $50 http://www.cbperformance.com/services.asp _________________ Let my name be Feared at the gates of Hell as I exault the Savior!!
72 Super EJ20 turbo install in progress!
04 Excursion 6.0 w/ Spartan tunes |
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Mudcat Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2005 Posts: 213 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 3:02 pm Post subject: |
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74 I'm with you. The very first thing I did when I got my '66 was rebuild the front suspension including the tie rods and steering box along with CB's lowered disc kit. I took the arms to a local NAPA machine shop and had the ball joints pressed. Just be careful that the shop alines them properly. Their guy pressed the ones on the passenger side 180 out! |
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Stevepi Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2006 Posts: 112 Location: Surrey.UK.
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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wcfvw69 wrote: |
keifernet wrote: |
DutchDub wrote: |
What about this tool. Worked well for me!
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That tool is not for pressing the ball joint out of torsion arm and re installing a new one... just for separating it from the spindle. |
People or companies love to sell things. I have never used one of those to seperate the ball joint stud from the spindle/knuckle. Loosen the nut of the ball joint leaving it on just a few threads. Smack the spindle/knuckle with a hammer where the ball joint stud goes through and they pop loose. |
I find that the hammer method rarely works for me whereas the splitter tool always does and I can use mine(a scissor type rather the one pictured) to pull the camber nut too so I reckon its definately a tool thats worth having. |
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Calex59 Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2007 Posts: 64 Location: Ione, California
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Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:17 pm Post subject: |
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ed stanley wrote: |
That's how I did it, too. I was reluctant to say so, because I know some would say that's a terrible thing to do - put a torch to the control arms to swell them up and pound out the old ball joints. Changes the metalurgy, loses hardness, etc. etc. My experience has been that they can take it, though. I know - I know, it doesn't make it right. |
Use a CO2 fire extinguisher to make it all cold, then heat the outside area quickly to about 100 degrees, worked good on lots of things in the field when I was in the army but have never tried it with ball joints! |
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ocdbeetle Samba Optimist
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 1176 Location: South Carolina
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Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks to all who have contributed to the ball joint thread/s. I lost a lower BJ a few nights ago pulling out of a parking lot and the info here was invaluable. |
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vicsvw Samba Member
Joined: February 27, 2003 Posts: 1001
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Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:52 pm Post subject: Ball Joint |
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We have used this method for years and have probably removed several hundred this way. Ball Joint Removing <> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/qa_balljointrem.htm
No tools to buy and you only need a welder and hammer.
Mark the notch before removing the old one. The notch is to the front and rear of car. Vic. |
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WRX Boy Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2008 Posts: 49 Location: Folsom, CA
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Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the info in this thread. I just swapped out all four of my ball joints using the cheapo press I got from Harbor Freight for $30. I had to use a large 1 3/4" socket instead of the spacers provided to get my lowers out (the provided spacer/tube was about 1/16" to small in diameter to let the lower ball joints through). Other than that, it worked great.
Here is the press I used: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335
_________________ '67 Bug - current project
'61 Ghia - sold
'70 Bus - sold
'59 Bug - sold |
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erma1967 Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2008 Posts: 4 Location: jacksonville, fl
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 7:38 am Post subject: Ball Joints Replaced |
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1967 beetle. everything was original and it was loose and rattly but i drove it with no prob. for safety reasons, we just had the tie rod ends, ball joints and steering stabilizer replaced. now i can't drive the damn thing!
i understand that no power steering and new ball joints make everything tighter but i almost died in this thing yesterday. when you turn the wheel abit, as if changing lanes, it wants to grab and keep going. so then you correct it back the other way a bit and it grabs that way. i'm telling you, if the roads would have been wet yesterday i would have flipped her. i had 2 other people drive it to make sure i'm not some crazy lady but both of them said it wasn't right.
of course, neither could tell me what was wrong though. any ideas?
signed,
frustrated in jax |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13382 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:25 pm Post subject: Re: Ball Joints Replaced |
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erma1967 wrote: |
1967 beetle. everything was original and it was loose and rattly but i drove it with no prob. for safety reasons, we just had the tie rod ends, ball joints and steering stabilizer replaced. now i can't drive the damn thing!
i understand that no power steering and new ball joints make everything tighter but i almost died in this thing yesterday. when you turn the wheel abit, as if changing lanes, it wants to grab and keep going. so then you correct it back the other way a bit and it grabs that way. i'm telling you, if the roads would have been wet yesterday i would have flipped her. i had 2 other people drive it to make sure i'm not some crazy lady but both of them said it wasn't right.
of course, neither could tell me what was wrong though. any ideas?
signed,
frustrated in jax |
if a shop did the work take it back. Something is binding up. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15975 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:10 pm Post subject: Re: Ball Joints Replaced |
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erma1967 wrote: |
1967 beetle. everything was original and it was loose and rattly but i drove it with no prob. for safety reasons, we just had the tie rod ends, ball joints and steering stabilizer replaced. now i can't drive the damn thing!
i understand that no power steering and new ball joints make everything tighter but i almost died in this thing yesterday. when you turn the wheel abit, as if changing lanes, it wants to grab and keep going. so then you correct it back the other way a bit and it grabs that way. i'm telling you, if the roads would have been wet yesterday i would have flipped her. i had 2 other people drive it to make sure i'm not some crazy lady but both of them said it wasn't right.
of course, neither could tell me what was wrong though. any ideas?
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Sounds like alignment. Replacing tie rod ends will change the toe in adjustment. If your front wheels are actually toe out they might react as you mentioned above. Get it looked at by an alignment shop familiar w/ ACVWs.
I changed my TR ends and my beetle handled like a different car until I got the toe adjusted. _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13382 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:19 pm Post subject: Re: Ball Joints Replaced |
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ashman40 wrote: |
erma1967 wrote: |
1967 beetle. everything was original and it was loose and rattly but i drove it with no prob. for safety reasons, we just had the tie rod ends, ball joints and steering stabilizer replaced. now i can't drive the damn thing!
i understand that no power steering and new ball joints make everything tighter but i almost died in this thing yesterday. when you turn the wheel abit, as if changing lanes, it wants to grab and keep going. so then you correct it back the other way a bit and it grabs that way. i'm telling you, if the roads would have been wet yesterday i would have flipped her. i had 2 other people drive it to make sure i'm not some crazy lady but both of them said it wasn't right.
of course, neither could tell me what was wrong though. any ideas?
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Sounds like alignment. Replacing tie rod ends will change the toe in adjustment. If your front wheels are actually toe out they might react as you mentioned above. Get it looked at by an alignment shop familiar w/ ACVWs.
I changed my TR ends and my beetle handled like a different car until I got the toe adjusted. |
The original poster didn't state whether he performed the work or a shop. If it was a shop, they really suck if they didn't bother to do an alignment after changing that many parts. If you did the parts changing yourself, take it to an alignment shop and they should be able to tell you why it's binding up due to a part that was changed or the toe being way out of adjustment. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15975 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:55 am Post subject: |
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Stevepi wrote: |
I find that the hammer method rarely works for me whereas the splitter tool always does and I can use mine(a scissor type rather the one pictured) to pull the camber nut too so I reckon its definately a tool thats worth having. |
I use the same scissors-type tool. Works great and looks almost the same as the orginal VW tool that is shown in the Bentley manuals. I got mine at JCW... I know, I know... but it was one of the few great things I picked up from them.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/Steering-Suspension-Tools/GP_2004158_N_111+10212+600021460_10112.jcw _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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Gary Person of Interest
Joined: November 01, 2002 Posts: 17069 Location: 127.0.0.1
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:34 am Post subject: |
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Stevepi wrote: |
wcfvw69 wrote: |
keifernet wrote: |
DutchDub wrote: |
What about this tool. Worked well for me!
|
That tool is not for pressing the ball joint out of torsion arm and re installing a new one... just for separating it from the spindle. |
People or companies love to sell things. I have never used one of those to seperate the ball joint stud from the spindle/knuckle. Loosen the nut of the ball joint leaving it on just a few threads. Smack the spindle/knuckle with a hammer where the ball joint stud goes through and they pop loose. |
I find that the hammer method rarely works for me whereas the splitter tool always does and I can use mine(a scissor type rather the one pictured) to pull the camber nut too so I reckon its definately a tool thats worth having. |
Exactly. God forbid people use the right tool. Also, I have a few beams where the hammer method won't work. _________________ West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943) |
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