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sharpstick Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005 Posts: 447 Location: Amarillo, TX
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2006 7:48 pm Post subject: Harbor Freight sandblaster review |
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This weekend I purchased the pressurized 40 lb. sandblaster from Harbor Freight. I know what some of you are thinking and I agree, HF does sell some crap...
The sandblaster was almost 40% off the normal price so I thought it would be worth that to see how it works.
I took it home and assembled it in about 30 minutes. I didn't want to use the expensive blasting sand that HF sells so I just tried some regular "play sand". I had to sift the sand and that just proved to be too much trouble. The sand kept clogging the tip of the gun.
The next day I located a local store that sells sandblasing media in different grits. A 100 lb bag was $8.00. I purchased the #3 grit (medium coarse) and tried that instead. The blaster worked perfectly, the gun did not stop up once.
I have a small homemade compresser that has a 3/4 hp motor. I would have to stop every couple of minutes to let the pressure catch up, but other than that there were no problems. The system works great. I blasted my entire engine compartment in about 20 minutes and it took about 1/2 a bag of sand. HF advertises this pressurized blaster is 30% more powerful than the gravity fed models and I have to agree.
My only complaint is the gun itself. It's hard to control the pressure with one hand. You need one hand to hold the nozzle and one to operate the lever. I have found several replacement guns online for really cheap. I will try one of these soon to see how much better it works.
This is not a bad system for $79.00. |
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coW Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2004 Posts: 2096 Location: New England
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sharpstick Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005 Posts: 447 Location: Amarillo, TX
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2006 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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That's close to the one I got. The one I purchased looks the same, but it states it's a 40lb size. The price was $139.00 and it was on sale for $79.00. |
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slowtwitch Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2004 Posts: 730 Location: just north of philly
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Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 3:32 am Post subject: |
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I have the same one, worked great on my pan.
pete |
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Rumdum Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2004 Posts: 278 Location: ALABAMA
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Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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What do you guys use for respirators? Just curious. _________________ 1975 Westfalia Campmobile
CB Performance Dual IDF Weber 40
- jetted and optimized by Aircooled.net |
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sharpstick Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005 Posts: 447 Location: Amarillo, TX
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Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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In my spare time I make custom knives. I am always grinding metal or titanium so I invested in a good respirator with twin filters. I can't think of the model off the top of my head, but it was NIOSH approved for what I was doing. Spend a few extra bucks to protect your lungs, it's money well spent. |
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atye Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 580 Location: Peachtree City, GA
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Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 6:54 am Post subject: |
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The use of "beach sand" is not suggested as it is a silica and can cause SILICOSOS (the blocking of the tubes in your lungs)
Thus this can cause breathing problems or even DEATH..
DO NOT USE BEACH SAND IN YOUR BLASTER EVER!!!
Just a word of advice, copied from another group... |
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marklaken Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004 Posts: 2416 Location: fort collins, CO
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Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 6:58 am Post subject: |
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same one i have...heads up on the gun...if you are using the lever to control your pressure, the valve on the gun will last maybe a couple of hours before the sand destroys the valve based on my experience...
also, harbor freight sells a rubber stopped gun for $8-$12 - this tool is not really that good...after a relatively short while, the rubber stopper gets eaten to the point that when you close it and lay the gun down, sand is still mildly blasting...this eats the rubber more and pretty soon the tool is useless...
the best i've come up with is harbor freight sells valves for cheap periodically - buy a handfull of them and use them till they wear out just as full on/off valves...get a pressure regulator if your compressor is pushing too much air through the blaster...
my .02 on beach sand is that it is fairly safe with a forced air respirator (like a hobby air - the silica is a serious health hazard) and super cheap...but it is also a PITA because it is so moist that it clogs your equipment easily and is less abrassive than aluminium oxide blasting media so it takes more time/effort to blast with _________________ Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles
'65 rear left beetle fender
15" Bus Wheels in fair condition
Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO |
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4ghias Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2004 Posts: 331 Location: Calif. Sacramento Area
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Loren Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2004 Posts: 1701
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Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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Has any one used the 40 lb. Harbor Freight blaster with fine walnut shells? I tried using them last week and all they did was clog up at the blast gun. The shells were dry and the humidity was very low (working in the high desert). I was using the biggest ceramic tip for the gun and still no dice. I am tempted to try a differnt manufacturer gun and see if that works (maybe swap out the gun in my sand blast cabinet). Just wondering if the gun is the issue or the nut at the trigger is to blame. |
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baxsie Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2005 Posts: 606 Location: Eastern Washington State
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MMW Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2012 Posts: 846 Location: northern NJ
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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When using a pressure sand blaster you should open the air supply valve fully (top of tank). Open the gun valve fully & then regulate the amount of sand coming out by the valve on the bottom of the tank. If you regulate with the gun valve it will wear quickly as stated earlier. Play sand usually has moisture which leads to clogging & also if your compressor puts out a lot of water you should get a seperator before the blaster.
Wear a respirator as silicosis is very bad. If you blast on a tarp or drive you can reuse the sand if you sift it. A window screen works well. It will get finer & finer each time you use it.
When using sand on body panels it can warp them. Always go at an angle instead of straight on. _________________ Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:21 am Post subject: |
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I'm going to disagree with this face mask. If you're doing a lot of blasting the clear face piece is not going to last and you'll end up tossing the whole thing. I like cheap grinding shields from a welder supply store. You can replace just the face piece for about $5. Goggles and respirator under that. _________________ 69 Fastback Build
Berg5 Build |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22431 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:47 am Post subject: |
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Brent wrote: |
I'm going to disagree with this face mask. If you're doing a lot of blasting the clear face piece is not going to last and you'll end up tossing the whole thing. I like cheap grinding shields from a welder supply store. You can replace just the face piece for about $5. Goggles and respirator under that. |
I kind of agree with Brent, in that set up won't keep the sand out, and will pit the hell out of the lense making it useless in a short time. I use goggles and a respirator under a hood though (keeps most of the sand out). I've got HF's 20 lb blaster (it'll just hold a 50 lb bag of sand) that I've used on many projects so far. I've had it 3 years now. But I also use a better blasting hood than HF supplies, and use their cheap grinding shields for making lenses with (I get 4 out of shield). I'll go thru a lense after 3 to 4 bags of sand, which lasts a little over a 1/2 hour of steady non-stop blasting. So far I've worn out 2 valves (sand ate them), and replaced them with new gas line valves (I have a spare valve now for when it gets worn out). The first to go was the one at the end of the hose, while the second one was the tank valve. I only replaced the tank valve, as the other valve doesn't do much. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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Hi,
I have been contemplating getting this same setup to do the blasting on my pan (currently the body is off a 73 Thing). I have been working on it with flapper wheels and wire brushes, but it is very slow and doesn't get it as nice as parts I have blasted. I have a blast cabinet and love it for small parts. I have a couple of questions that I am hoping some knowledgeable people can guide me on.
I think I would use 80 grit glass beads for the media. Would this be sufficient for removing original factor paint and some small rust pitting? Any idea, roughly, how much material would be required (I won't ask how much paint I will need )
How much of a mess does this make if you do it outside? I have a flat concrete pad in the back yard, hidden by a fence and surrounded by rocks. Am I going to totally annoy my neighbors (I like most of them)?
The final finish will be primer and the chassis black. Is this over kill? Not a show car, but I want it to look nice.
Appreciate the guidance.
jay |
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66vwkaferresto Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2012 Posts: 24 Location: Auburn, WA
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Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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I cannot speak to the glass beads as a media choice. I used a product I found at a local blast media supplier called Kleen Blast which worked really well. I just finished blasting my chassis top and bottom and a border of about two inches around the pans. I have to remove and replace the pans so I did not bother blasting them completely. It took three hundred pounds of media. I could have done it with half that if I had recycled the media once but it wasn't worth the hassle. I only paid $9.97 per 100lb bag.
As for the dust... depending on how close those neighbors are you may want to consider trying to contain it. I bought an inexpensive canopy that was 10x20 and then bought some 6mil plastic at Lowes and cut it to make walls. Based on the amount of dust that gathered on both the walls and my clothes I am certain my neighbors would not have been happy with me had I not contained it.
Remember to get a proper mask and good luck! |
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vwdad Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2007 Posts: 82 Location: Cumming GA
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notsnarb Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2006 Posts: 845 Location: MI
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Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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Gonna check this out for sure, I've been using play sand and it sucks. Thanks for the info |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22431 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:19 am Post subject: |
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JayC wrote: |
Hi,
I have been contemplating getting this same setup to do the blasting on my pan (currently the body is off a 73 Thing). I have been working on it with flapper wheels and wire brushes, but it is very slow and doesn't get it as nice as parts I have blasted. I have a blast cabinet and love it for small parts. I have a couple of questions that I am hoping some knowledgeable people can guide me on.
How much of a mess does this make if you do it outside? I have a flat concrete pad in the back yard, hidden by a fence and surrounded by rocks. Am I going to totally annoy my neighbors (I like most of them)?
The final finish will be primer and the chassis black. Is this over kill? Not a show car, but I want it to look nice.
Appreciate the guidance.
jay |
Does it make a mess? Yes. Here's some shots of the bottom of my 64 t-34's pan (top side was already done first the same way).
And here it's been epoxy primed, painted AND clear coated. Over kill? I don't think so.
I used 10 - 50 lb bags of fine "sandblasting" sand that I got from my local lumber yard, just on the bottom of the pan. HD and Lowe's sells the same stuff for around 3.50 per bag. Works damn good, and you don't burn thru as many tips as you do with the more course sand.
Note; I didn't recycle any of it, as I'm working on a "land fill" project right there. And yes, that's my front yard, where I'm doing the blasting. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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JayC Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010 Posts: 292 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 2:03 pm Post subject: |
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Great pictures and thank you
How long did it take?
jay |
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