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Non-reducing Reduction Boxes
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 8:37 am    Post subject: Non-reducing Reduction Boxes Reply with quote

A week ago I went over to Bucko's house and saw his military 181. All of the cool military radio gadgets aside, I was struck by the reduction boxes and how they allowed the axles to be up high and level compared to the crazy angles and stressed CV joints and boots under my Thing.

Then last week on Topica, there was a thread on the Haflinger.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haflinger

The Haflinger has this feature:

Quote:
The 'portal' type design of the front and rear axles means that the centre of the axle is above the centre of the wheel, thus increasing ground clearance under the axle without the need to increase the wheel diameter. Power is transmitted from the axle to the wheel via drop gears in each wheel hub.


So now I am officially intrigued. Has anyone ever made or hacked reduction boxes that don't reduce? I don't want to change the overall gearing because I actually take my Thing on the interstate, but I would like to have those nice level axles.

Other questions: (1) How much drive train loss would result from non-reducing reduction boxes? I assume the extra weight and friction of the drop gears would induce some penalty (possibly offset by having the CV joints in a less stressful position); (2) What other modifications would be required? Axles, transmission?

Apologies for the monday morning rambling. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.

Ben
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chuy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has reduction boxes. It is just a split window bus tranny. The reductors are geared 1:1.1. You do loose some of the gearing, but gain power from your reductors. The ring and pinion can be modified to give higher road speeds.

Any pictures of Bucko's car?
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chuy wrote:
Mine has reduction boxes. It is just a split window bus tranny. The reductors are geared 1:1.1. You do loose some of the gearing, but gain power from your reductors. The ring and pinion can be modified to give higher road speeds.

Any pictures of Bucko's car?


No, I didn't take any pics, but it's gonna be amazing when he is finished. He travels to Germany frequently and has quite the talent when it comes to finding rare parts.

With respect to my original question, I searched a little and it looks like the off road folks have played around with the idea of 1:1 (non)reduction boxes and it's just not feasible. Like you (chuy) suggested, it's just much easier to get a bus or military 181 tranny and alter the ring and pinion for higher gearing.
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bucko
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enjoyed the visit from bciesq. I see that someone on the classifieds is selling the reduction box cases, but axles would need to be purchased, as the axles on reduction box equipped 181's are different I believe. The rear drum brake backing plate is most likely different too. Then there's the gearing. Reduction boxes were used for military 181's for getting these heavy, low powered 181's through soft sand and steep inclines. The original engines were the 1500 CC's, and low powered. Then add the couple hundred extra pounds of radio equipment. The previous owner claimed he drove my military 181 on the autoban at 60 to 65 MPH; he did this for several miles before blowing the motor.

The problem I see are the gearing inside the boxes. I'd think it will be costly to have new gears made to make these boxes 1 to 1 ratio, so you could keep the gearing to wheels the same, but gain on the reduced axle stress. Anything is possible though.
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bucko wrote:
Enjoyed the visit from bciesq. I see that someone on the classifieds is selling the reduction box cases, but axles would need to be purchased, as the axles on reduction box equipped 181's are different I believe. The rear drum brake backing plate is most likely different too. Then there's the gearing. Reduction boxes were used for military 181's for getting these heavy, low powered 181's through soft sand and steep inclines. The original engines were the 1500 CC's, and low powered. Then add the couple hundred extra pounds of radio equipment. The previous owner claimed he drove my military 181 on the autoban at 60 to 65 MPH; he did this for several miles before blowing the motor.

The problem I see are the gearing inside the boxes. I'd think it will be costly to have new gears made to make these boxes 1 to 1 ratio, so you could keep the gearing to wheels the same, but gain on the reduced axle stress. Anything is possible though.


I think I would definitely have to change the ring and pinion to get the gearing where I want it and leave the reduction boxes alone. I'm sure it's not worth the trouble, but I couldn't help but notice that there are a couple of bus trannies in my area for sale in the classifieds:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=316107

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=328770

chuy, what additional parts did you have to use to get the bus tranny working in your Thing?
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bucko
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm available to help you pull/install the engine and tranny if you go forth with it. I have the tools and time.

Let me know if/when you buy the bus tranny setup. I've removed/installed them in Beetles, so it's not much of a difference.
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Ferretkona
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have always understood that the 67 bus reduction boxes were 1 to 1. Possibly the 66 bus boxes as well.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chuy wrote:
Mine has reduction boxes. It is just a split window bus tranny. The reductors are geared 1:1.1. You do loose some of the gearing, but gain power from your reductors. The ring and pinion can be modified to give higher road speeds.


How did you make them 1:1.1 ?

There are no stock Bus reduction boxes with that ratio.

The ratios are:
1.39:1 small nut (up to 1963)
or
1.26:1 big nut (1964-67)
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WD-40
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure that the Pinzgauer has the same axle arrangement.

For what it's worth, a lot of farm machinery has things like that too. When you have to fit a wheel between crops, you need clearance on both sides of the wheel. Most of them have hydraulic hub "motors", but others are mechanically driven...

- David
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD-40 wrote:
I'm pretty sure that the Pinzgauer has the same axle arrangement.


I'd guess you are right, from the Halfinger wiki entry:

Quote:
The larger version of the Haflinger, called the Pinzgauer, is available in both 4x4 and 6x6 versions.

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bciesq
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
The ratios are:
1.39:1 small nut (up to 1963)
or
1.26:1 big nut (1964-67)


Thanks for the info. I knew that there was a "large nut" and a "small nut" version with less reduction between the two, but I didn't have ratios or years.

I guess I need to ask the seller of this:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=328770

to clarify what he has for sale since it is listed as a 1960 large nut tranny.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been kinda interested in trying to find a way of installing portals onto an IRS Thing.

I know there was a company making 1:1 portal boxes for Dana 60 front axles. If they still make them, all it would take is a custom stub shaft with 30 spline outers and a flange to hook the portal to the diagonal arm. And if they can handle 38-40" tires and 400hp, they can handle anything we'll be tossing at them.

EDIT: Nevermind, they're $4000 a pair Shocked

Justin
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