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WhitewallsJohnson
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Joined: October 21, 2005
Posts: 608
Location: Teddy Bear Junction
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 Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| ArkansasChad wrote: |
If you dont plan on adjusting the inner splines, do you have to unbolt that end of the torsion bar?
In other words, can i adjust the outer splines only with unbolting the inner torsion bar bolt? |
If you're wanting to do your adjusting on the outer splines only, then no, you don't have to remove the bolt or the torsion bar from the opposite end that you're lowering on. In other words, just remove the lower torsion arm from the outside end of the bar, and rotate it up to lower it.
Some of us have a hard time getting them to seperate (due to rust), so doing the inner bar end is another option. In my son's case, his car had been lowered some before he got it, and it was uneven. He had to work both ends of the 2 bars in order to get it even, and lowered.  This is where a protractor comes in handy (to be able to check both sides, and make sure they're set the same). |
Thanks BobNotch
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AKA: Arkansas Chad
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NEGATIVECAMBER
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Joined: November 09, 2006
Posts: 18
Location: Sacramento
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| Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Just wanted to say thanks for this post! I lowered my square this weekend and it worked out perfectly.
I'll post pics later.
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'67 squareback |
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WhitewallsJohnson
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Joined: October 21, 2005
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Location: Teddy Bear Junction
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myvento
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Joined: March 15, 2007
Posts: 46
Location: Greenville, PA
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| Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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how low is it gonna be? pics???
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jim altemus
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Joined: September 22, 2002
Posts: 366
Location: Bristol, CT
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:08 am Post subject: |
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The front on my '68 Fastback is down a notch or two (I did it years ago so I don't remember which) so I'm going to tackle the rear this weekend. Can anyone estimate how much drop I would get for each outer notch versus inner notch on the rear? The guy I bought the car from is warning me not to drop it by the outer splines.
- Jim |
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myvento
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Joined: March 15, 2007
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Location: Greenville, PA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:34 am Post subject: |
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i saw a chart somewhere that had the drgres per spline... anyone?
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RafCarre12
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Joined: January 06, 2008
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:06 am Post subject: |
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jim altemus
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Joined: September 22, 2002
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Location: Bristol, CT
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:13 am Post subject: |
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So for a smaller (lesser) drop, I should work with the outer splines? Sounds good but also opposite what my buddy was telling me.
- Jim |
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myvento
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Location: Greenville, PA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:42 am Post subject: |
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thats it thanx raf
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"Who you choose to be around you lets you know who your are." Sung Kang as "Han" in Tokyo Drift
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KTPhil
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Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 15905
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:50 am Post subject: |
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The difference between inner and outer is less than 1/4 inch.
Last edited by KTPhil on Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:22 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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RafCarre12
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Joined: January 06, 2008
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Location: Glen Rock, NJ
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:52 am Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| The difference between inner and outer is less tha 1/4 inch. |
...yeah, 1/3" like the pictures say up there ^^^
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Mike Fisher
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 12:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Raf, better read your chart more carefully! Jim & Phil are talking about the difference between moving an inner OR an outer. A tuning move refers to moving an inner AND an outer for a small adjustment. |
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RafCarre12
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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yes
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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| jim altemus wrote: |
So for a smaller (lesser) drop, I should work with the outer splines? Sounds good but also opposite what my buddy was telling me.
- Jim |
Part of how much it'll drop depends on how much the torsion bars are sagging.
On my 71 Notch, the left side was sagging almost 1.25 inches lower than the right side. When I dropped the rear, I had to do a combo move (inside and outer) to get them even. Then I took the car out and bounced it a few times in the driveway, to help settle it some more, and found the left side was lower than the right again.  I again got back in there, and did a couple of combo moves, right now it's about 3/8th of an inch higher, hoping it'll settle back down some after I bounce it again (currently I have the engine out, so I can paint the engine bay). I little higher on the left won't bother me as much, due to the car always having a driver going down the road, so my weight should help level it a little more. 
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DUBL-DUBL
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Joined: March 14, 2008
Posts: 8
Location: Ontario Canada
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| Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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Just want to say THANKS a BILLION to Mike TopNotch for your TopNotch Step-by-step lowering instructions!!! 
Got some ContiPro Contact tires on the front yesterday, and lowered the front today with ease! Could NOT have done it without your pics and detailed instructions, thanks so much and I owe you a beer!
Cheers!
Craig |
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DUBL-DUBL
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Joined: March 14, 2008
Posts: 8
Location: Ontario Canada
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 8:47 am Post subject: |
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I apologize for the double-post......
so is there any way to lower the rear just 1 inch?
Or are the only options 1/3 of an inch with a tuning move, or 2 inches or so with an inner OR outer move?
Thanks in advance!
Craig |
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:50 am Post subject: |
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Craig, you'll have to do a combo move to get 1" drop. The best thing you can do, is get an angle finder. Then once you've got the spring plate off the stop, take a reading from the angle finder (to use as a baseline, in case you ever need to get back to that point), then do your inner/outer moves. What you're going to want is about 2 to 5 degrees (if I remember correctly) drop from your original reading for approximately 1" drop in the rear. It might take a few tries to get this, but once you figure out how many splines in each direction you need on one side, then you can do the opposite for the other side. You'll still move the inner or outer splines the same amout, but you're working on the opposite side of the car. I hope this helps.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
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kyle242gt
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Joined: February 26, 2008
Posts: 289
Location: Norcal
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:54 am Post subject: |
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Just did this myself - the rear pretty well follows the beetle chart. 4* got me about one inch, which was 5 inners up and 5 outers down.
You will almost certainly have to adjust multiple times, even if you have an angle finder and a perfectly level floor. The torsion bars seem to react differently side-to-side.
So, start with a baseline (+5/-5) put it back together, road test it, then remeasure. Chances are you'll need to tweak one side a bit more.
It gets really really easy after you've done it a few times.
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Russ Wolfe
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Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25689
Location: Central Iowa
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:00 am Post subject: |
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This is the actual factory gage.
You used the sill or the tunnel of the car to zero the gage, and then it did not matter how the car was sitting.
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W1K1
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Location: Southern AB
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 11:31 am Post subject: |
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That's the one I use Russ.
A buddy had to fish it out of the dumpster at the VW dealership when they tossed all the aircooled tools out.
Sure makes the job easier than feeling around for the next notch
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