71 issues:

Russ Wolfe · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:45 am Post subject:

I took the top off mine and freed it up. Sounds like it is varnished up.
Carb cleaner does the trick.

I have good used ones too if Tram or the DDB fail.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey

Gary: OK. Ima poop.

Chory · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:54 am Post subject:

I think I will submerge it in carb cleaner...spray and drip is not doing the trick. Sure would hate to declare this one dead before giving it a decent try.
_________________
Be kind…
Current Fleet:
‘07 Saab 9-4 2L Turbo (GM era, US bild)
‘91 Honda Beat (JDM, mid-engine, KEI)

Russ Wolfe · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:57 am Post subject:

Chory · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 12:24 pm Post subject:

took the top off straight away, forgot to put it on before I tested the unit.

All better now! I have a functioning AAR!!!!

YAY!
_________________
Be kind…
Current Fleet:
‘07 Saab 9-4 2L Turbo (GM era, US bild)
‘91 Honda Beat (JDM, mid-engine, KEI)

Mike Fisher · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 12:44 pm Post subject:

You mean it runs! WTG Girl!

Chory · Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:16 am Post subject:

Mike Fisher · Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:23 am Post subject:

I'm sorry, I don't know where I got that? Embarassed

Chory · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 1:42 pm Post subject: Idle Variation/Timing questions!

So I replaced some more hoses leading to the Exhaust Gas something Can (fun crawling about down there), and started in on perfecting the timing since my tags are expired and driving is not an option.

Hooked up the timing light and noticed that the idle is allover the place. Anywhere from 745 to 1100rpm (vac can hose plugged). Is this normal (I think not): Why would this be? I've tried to set it as close to a constant 850 as I can get.
Thought it might have something to do with this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

When I poped the dist open, I noticed that there is a frayed chunk of coper wire; I'd never thought anything of it before, but given the the idle I thought now it may be of concern: Below I've circled it.

(Note: front of car is to left in these pics)

I assume there ought to be a totally constant idle setting (850) and only the addition of more fuel should change that. It seems to advance OK (not spot on, and it would seem I have lost my 10mm wrench so there will be a bit here before I improve that aspect).

I've been improving the vac-leaks (using JSMSkater's threads) and think I have them repaired in majority (i.e., the car now dies if you cover the main manifold air-intake boot with the palm of your hand, and all of he hoses [the ones which I can see at least: have found up to this point] are new). I've also cleaned out the MAP(S) and the AAR and they look (and presumably perform) lovely now.

What with The Samba and the three books (Muir, Bentley and Haynes) I am pretty confident setting ignition timing will be swift and simple (assuming I have a 10mm wrench), but cannot get to that step with wierd variations in idle.

Your aid is much appreciated!

(Note: motor and body are 1971 FI)
_________________
Be kind…
Current Fleet:
‘07 Saab 9-4 2L Turbo (GM era, US bild)
‘91 Honda Beat (JDM, mid-engine, KEI)

Russ Wolfe · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:57 pm Post subject:

That frayed wire can be a cause of poor running. Maybe other people should check theirs. That is the ground wire for the distributor breaker plate. If that is intermittent, it can cause missing problems.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey

Gary: OK. Ima poop.

Chory · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:02 pm Post subject:

So I had suspected...to what ought it be attached?
_________________
Be kind…
Current Fleet:
‘07 Saab 9-4 2L Turbo (GM era, US bild)
‘91 Honda Beat (JDM, mid-engine, KEI)

Russ Wolfe · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:10 pm Post subject:

It attaches the upper and lower breaker advance plates. It grounds the 2 together. That is actually the ground for the points. It is spot welded originally, and it needs to be very flexible. If it is not flexible, it will cause the vacuum advance to not work properly.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey

Gary: OK. Ima poop.

KTPhil · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:18 pm Post subject:

Someone suggested using desoldering brading as a replacement, but what method of (re-)attachment do you recommend? I've never had them come loose, but if they do, what do you do? Solder probably would not work (the wire would wick it up before it bonded, if it even would bond to the plate). I don't have a spot welder.

Russ Wolfe · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:27 pm Post subject:

Soldering braid is a little stiff. I have used the outer shield from RG58 coax. Like CB antennas use.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey

Gary: OK. Ima poop.

Chory · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:34 pm Post subject:

I suppose intermitant ground within the distributor would account for the inconstant idle...?
_________________
Be kind…
Current Fleet:
‘07 Saab 9-4 2L Turbo (GM era, US bild)
‘91 Honda Beat (JDM, mid-engine, KEI)

Chory · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:46 pm Post subject:

Okay, so how do I go about remedying the problem given that I
A) know lillte about the parts within the distributor
B) know nothing about soldering
C) "outer shield from RG58 coax" leaves me baffled

Can the solution be explained in a manner similar to the following?:
"Jam the frayed wire in between the two plates using a flat head screwdriver."

Or should I remove the distributor and take it to a VW shop to have the fix made (I'll be walking the dog over to a vet across the street from Josi's on Thursday, anyhow)?
_________________
Be kind…
Current Fleet:
‘07 Saab 9-4 2L Turbo (GM era, US bild)
‘91 Honda Beat (JDM, mid-engine, KEI)

Adriel Rowley · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:55 pm Post subject:

What happens if you do not have the ground wire? My distributor has no vacuum can or ground wire, but it seems to run fine (or did until the drive gear reared it ugly head). Think

COFBack · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:57 pm Post subject:

The distributor is not rocket science. THere is a good blow up in Bentley. If worse comes to worse you can take all the parts to a local shop and have them put it back together.

You can get a new (rebuilt) FI distrib from NAPA for $80. Or maybe Glenn has one you can "trade" for.

Gotta get that squared away though.
_________________

Russ Wolfe · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:57 pm Post subject:

Russ Wolfe · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:59 pm Post subject:

Russ Wolfe · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 4:00 pm Post subject:


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