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Replacing Convertible Support Rails Explained
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fred69vert
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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 5:19 am    Post subject: Re: Super Beetle Convertible Braces from BUGSTUFF Reply with quote

Bugs'n'Pugs wrote:
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Here is a picture of a set of braces that I bought from a company called BUGSTUFF in West Brownsville, Pennsylvania. (BUGSTUFF can be contacted at (724) 785-7000 or [email protected].) The braces mount in the existing locations where the door hinges and the striker plate mount so that no welding is required.


I sent an e-mail to them last week and have received no reply. Does anyone know if they are still in business?
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Scott Faivre
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you ever get an answer to that? I've had at least a dozen people contact me about trying to buy my door braces. If anyone knows of a current location where we can get them. Please post it up!

thanks!
Scott Faivre
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fred69vert
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had finally managed to contact them using the phone number, (724) 785-7000. I got my braces back in the summer, just got the body off the pan last week.
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nobody
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was searching for info on the convertible support rails when I found this forum; then I saw these neat braces. Cool

I'm restoring a 78 vert that had a bad top - that means pans and heater channels. I was wondering how to build the jig to hold everything together as I was cutting each side. With theses braces - problem solved.

I'll update profile and add bug pics later.

thanks for being useful already
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70_clementine_vert
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welding the support rail to my HC. I am not a good welder but it is o.k. I will grind and seal and it will be good.

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Rust falling out of my HC Support rail. YUCK!

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Removing the HC / Support rail. I am showing this picture because in the corner you can see a piece of angle iron. I made a x brace with two pieces of angle iron and used slef tapping screws to screw it into the door posts in a place that will be covered by panels and carpet. This was the only support I gave the opening. I also kept the door closed while making the change. Contiually checking it to make sure it worked. I was tired of spendign money on things. Especially specialty parts that will only be used for one job. It is very expensive to do this, but LOTS OF FUN. I will try to find a better picture of my support but what I am saying is it does not need to be too extensive, or expensive. Very Happy

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Here is my car as of the end of April 2009.

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Lair
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent thread. I'm picking up a rusty early '69 'vert this weekend. This thread is making me reconsider my plans to part it.
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Scott Faivre
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah... One other thing...

Before I welded my support rail to the body, I painted the inside with POR-15 just to be sure that any water from washing the car would not cause rust in the future.

Man, I miss driving that car! Very Happy

Scott Faivre
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70_clementine_vert
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My car at the end of May. Making progress!!! Front clip replacement is my current project. Going moderately well.

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WrennMetallWerks
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is a tuff job doing the rails and I give props to anyone you can pull it off! Good stuff guys thanks for the posts! Got any more pics? : )
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Motochris
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, just picked up a 66 vert. Passenger reinforcement rail is rusted enough it should be replaced. Drivers side looks great.
This car is freshly painted and assembled. (why they didn't replace the rail while it was apart is beyond me)
Any idea if the rail could be replaced by just lifting the body a few inches...so everything doesn't have to be removed?
I don't know if that's even possible, as I've never pulled a bug body....Any help appreciated.
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jimhens714
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Contact Chuck's Convertible Parts. He has an illustrated step by step manual for how to do this with body on car. Chuck is very helpful and generally a good guy.

http://www.chucksconvertibleparts.com/manuals.php
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Motochris
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jimhens714 wrote:
Contact Chuck's Convertible Parts. He has an illustrated step by step manual for how to do this with body on car. Chuck is very helpful and generally a good guy.

http://www.chucksconvertibleparts.com/manuals.php


PERFECT! Thanks much!
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 4:34 pm    Post subject: Jan 20th 2010 Reply with quote

http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/pedley56st...p;newest=1
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 4:53 pm    Post subject: Cancer survivor 63 vert Reply with quote

<div style="width:480px;text-align:right;"><embed width="480" height="360" src="http://static.pbsrc.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf" flashvars="rssFeed=http%3A%2F%2Ffeed143.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr147%2Fpedley56st%2Ffeed.rss" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" /><a href="http://photobucket.com/redirect/album?showShareLB=1" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic.pbsrc.com/share/icons/embed/btn_geturs.gif" style="border:none;" /></a><a href="http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r147/pedley56st/" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic.pbsrc.com/share/icons/embed/btn_viewall.gif" style="border:none;" /></a></div>


Picked this vert up last month. word to the wise. take an ice pick with you when ytou look at a rusty vw. Im into it now. NO TURNING BACK. cut the hole bottom of a 63 desert sedan no rust and should have it all back together tommorow. what a chore. so many people have told me Im nuts... its not worth it. But hell or high water this thing will se aphalt one more time before its turned into rebar.

Smitty
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DasVolksRodder
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think i'm going to be traveling down that same road myself. got a super solid sedan with a ragtop cut roof, and my vert is hardcore rusty on the bottom 6". gonna use the vert areas to change the top of the sedan, and add leftover sedan metal to brace the parts, double thickness where possible. carefully cut out the OEM bracing and add it on to complete the correct "look"... Laughing

should be a hell of a lot of fun!
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:18 am    Post subject: Pics of support? Reply with quote

I got a 62 vert that has rusted out heater channels. I'm going to be using the heater channels from a 63 sedan that are really good and rust free! The only thing I noticed is, I'm not sure my vert has the support rails at all??? I can't seem to identify where they are. Does anyone have any pics of the support rail welded up to the heater channel? I ordered some that should be here this weekend. Maybe the form of them will give me a clue as to where they are supposed to go. Also, if I am not replacing the heater channels do I need to remove them to weld up the support rails? Also do I need to separate the body from the pan to weld in the supports? Thanks for your help!
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DasVolksRodder
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

from what i gather ( and mine are rusty and non existant too) the vert support rails are the bottoms of the heater channels on a sedan, but have an added rail in the same thickness & material, boxing in the metal running along side the heater tubes and thus making the panel stronger. i'd rather buy standard ones and weld some thick 1" box tubing to it, not just the stock stuff.... and while its all apart, do one great big U shaped channel from top of a pillar down to the rocker and back and up into the B pillar , single piece pie cut and welded to shape, to really make sure you dont get a saggy door or gap ever again... Wink
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've replaced convertible rails on '50 verts twice. Both times it was done with the body upside down. No rotisserie, no bracing on the doors, just a plywood support frame. It is a major job, but not impossible for anyone who can weld.

I did not read every post so forgive me if I repeat something. First, for those who say "Where are these rails" The convertible body is like a sedan body with the roof cut off and additional bracing welded on. The rails are additional braces welded to the bottoms of the heater channels. If you need to replace the rails it is likely part of the heater channels are bad too.

Making the measurments is step two. Your door gaps may be wider at the top so fix that first. Unbolt the body from the pan and shim it under the mounting points so the door gaps is even. Think 3-D about all the ways things can be bent. Be sure to measure across and diagonally in all three dimensions. Make reference marks on the body that won't get removed during the work and measure as accurately as you can -- like 1/16" or better. Take notes good enough so you can repeat them next year. Next, say youv'e measured diagonally from the bottom of the left front door pillar to the bottom right rear door pillar. Measure from the the bottom of the right front door pillar to the bottom of the left rear. Those should be the same. Repeat this for all the combinations you can think of including the top corners of the windshield frame. Compare all the measurements that are mirror images (like the example) and be sure they are the same. If they are not and you find a big descrepancy like 3/4" use whatever you need (a come along) to pull the body back into alignment, shim it, and repeat the measurements until you are happy it is as true as it can be. Convertibles can get bent over 40 or 50 years, especially if they are rusted. You now have master measurements, made after you have aligned the body and before you cut anything off.

Now get a couple friends, flip the body over and block it (concrete blocks, plywood frame, etc) so it is solid. Don't rest it on the windshield frame. Check it against the master measurements, and shim as required. Now cut and replace panels and rails as required. They be at a nice work height and crap won't be falling in your eyes. Before you weld, remeasure, tack and remeasure, weld halfway and remeasure. The last thing you want to do is weld it up so the body is out of whack. The door braces look handy but be really careful the overall body doesn't get twisted.

It may take a few hours to get good master measurments but if you don't, you may have trouble later with door and top alignment later.

Ifthe body is so rusty it breaks in half, use a pan as a jig and repair it upright. Do the heater channels first, double check that the body is straight, then go back and add the reinforcement rails and panels.
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Chris Paterson
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great info on this thread. I figured out why I was so confused about my support rails. It seems the PO was in the process of replacing the heater channels and just cut the box part of the support rails off. The body was set back on the pan with just the two bolts at the front axle beam holding it on! That's why I couldn't identify where the rails were supposed to be. Once I got mine in the mail, I then realized where they are supposed to go. The good thing is they look like they'll be fairly easy to line up because they go under the heater channels and have holes for the bolts to the pan. So line up the holes and then weld it in. My heater channels are in good shape on my donor car so I'll be using that.
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott Faivre wrote:
Oh yeah... One other thing...

Before I welded my support rail to the body, I painted the inside with POR-15 just to be sure that any water from washing the car would not cause rust in the future.

Man, I miss driving that car! Very Happy

Scott Faivre


Scott, I'm just wondering, did you drill any drain holes too? Seems like it would be prudent with the POR-15.
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