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Bodywork How To's
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Matt K.
Paint and Body Nutcase


Joined: January 14, 2005
Posts: 2597
Location: Hemet, So Cal.
Matt K. is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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The rear apron was pop riveted in...which was nice as the owner wanted the exhaust cut outs welded up and smoothed. So same procedure as before, make some templates, tack weld around the perimeter and grind it smooth. I will ad a couple of drain holes to each side just to make sure any water does not get trapped.
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This is my 21st year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .
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Matt K.
Paint and Body Nutcase


Joined: January 14, 2005
Posts: 2597
Location: Hemet, So Cal.
Matt K. is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen. One side is finished just for reference. It looks as though there is a huge dent in the middle of the apron.....But, its just the reflection from the flash....its actually smooth.
_________________
This is my 21st year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .
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Matt K.
Paint and Body Nutcase


Joined: January 14, 2005
Posts: 2597
Location: Hemet, So Cal.
Matt K. is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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The jambs were horrible so we stripped them down to see what was going on. The driver side we found a rust hole and some brass welding. It looks as though the fender apron, the door and the quarter panel were replaced quite some time ago as the welding was done in brass and the finish work was done in lead!.
_________________
This is my 21st year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .
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