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marklaken Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004 Posts: 2416 Location: fort collins, CO
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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Bus R Us...your local autoparts store is not going to sell the proper body work products...go to your local body shop supply store...you can also goto TCP Global for mailorder supplies if you don't have a good paint supply store (aka, jobber)
You can use POR-15, then filler, then primer _________________ Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles
'65 rear left beetle fender
15" Bus Wheels in fair condition
Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO |
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Matt K. Paint and Body Nutcase
Joined: January 14, 2005 Posts: 2598 Location: Hemet, So Cal.
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Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 8:24 am Post subject: |
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Well it looks like i will be able to get back on the projects, i do have a few different things to do (some vw some not) I will be able to get back on the panel, and i have a deck lid off a bug that will be turned into some wall art and i will show how to do some old school paint work on that. ..........................sorry for the delay. _________________ This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.) |
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68for500 Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2007 Posts: 76 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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So, if you can por then follow with filler, is it safe to assume this is OK with Rust Bullet as well? Small areas like rain gutters, sills, etc is what I'm thinking of trying this on...
Thank you for this thread, good learning.... |
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Duncwarw Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2003 Posts: 3094
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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I hear Bondo won't stick to POR.
Only POR's (Restomotive Labs) filler works without falling off.
I have NO PERSONAL EXPERIENCE with the above, but I was told by someone I trust with first-hand experience.
If this is not true, I'd like to hear about it as everything they make is expensive.
Great thread. _________________ “To find yourself, think for yourself”
Socrates, 470 BC - 399 BC |
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68for500 Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2007 Posts: 76 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:41 am Post subject: |
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So, I tried a small spot around the back window, (hidden by the seal) that had some rust pits. Small ones...
Sanded and wire brushed out rust to get to metal, rustbullet as per directions, etc. Though the bondo stuck, (I did rough it back up first), it took alot longer than it normally would to dry and adhere, and that seems like a signal that perhaps long term, it's not such a good idea. The biggest problem I see is that rustbullet is such a pain to sand, that it easily creates uneven surfaces as the bondo obviously sands quicker than the rust bullet. To pull it off and have even surfaces, I would say it's pretty important to have a good feel for sanding, and alot of patience. I'm a woodworker by trade, and I've sanded all kinds of material in countless shapes, so I did ok in this endevour, but it wasn't easy, and I won't be doing it anywhere else on the car. I'm just going to leave this one spot while I do other work and see what pans out in terms of adhesion.....
I'd love to hear anyone elses solutions for dealing with the small-ish pits in places like the sills and in small rounded spots.... |
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hpw Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2006 Posts: 3010 Location: memphis
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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Duncwarw wrote: |
I hear Bondo won't stick to POR.
Only POR's (Restomotive Labs) filler works without falling off. I have NO PERSONAL EXPERIENCE with the above, but I was told by someone I trust with first-hand experience.
If this is not true, I'd like to hear about it as everything they make is expensive.
Great thread. |
I had a smaill (quarter sized) rust spot that I chemically treated with
the cleaner, etcher, than por-15, than
por's bondo. No problems so far.
For some reason this links takes you to the middle of it, scroll up to get
to top with the pictures.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1907435&highlight=#1907435 _________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SLIzSCt_cg&list=FLIX26sGa8__1F1loczLPTtg&index=2 |
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hpw Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2006 Posts: 3010 Location: memphis
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kcnaz Samba Member
Joined: November 10, 2006 Posts: 312 Location: Sahuarita, AZ
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:04 am Post subject: |
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Great welding thread. My car was hacked bad and had no dash, I welded a 67 donor in on my 71 convertible and found lots of solder where the windshield post meets the defrost vent and the dash. Looks like it was used as filler and joiner. I found that a damp cloth helped keep the stuff from running out to bad. Keep it cool.
_________________ When I nod my head ......hit it!!
"rare as rocking horse poo" |
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Krmnnghia Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2005 Posts: 797 Location: Michigan, Land of salty roads!
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Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 9:54 am Post subject: |
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kcnaz wrote: |
Great welding thread. |
QUE? |
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TomWesty Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2007 Posts: 3482 Location: Wyoming,USA
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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Where'd Matt go? |
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J-Gaz. Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2007 Posts: 613 Location: 253 Then, Now 206.
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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X2 |
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Matt K. Paint and Body Nutcase
Joined: January 14, 2005 Posts: 2598 Location: Hemet, So Cal.
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Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 8:45 am Post subject: |
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I am here, well sort of..................yes i know i need to update and get back onto doing some more stuff for you all!!! Sorry for the delay. _________________ This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.) |
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raynaldo Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2008 Posts: 19 Location: Land Of Enchantment
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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Matt,
Do you have any photos of how to replace a rear pan for a 68 VW.
Thanks!
Ray |
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Frankie Pintado Samba Member
Joined: April 02, 2008 Posts: 372 Location: Lake of the Woods, VA
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Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Matt. This is useful stuff. |
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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Talie Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: mandurah, WA, Aus
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Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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Fantastic thread, just read it all! Will definately help with the welding side of things.
One thing regarding grinding if anyone can help.....
Where two side panels meet each other, say you want to cut out the whole right panel, how'd you go about grinding it out?
I need to take it right up to the edge, so can I just get a grinding disc and basically grind down the seam? Is this the best way to do it?
Does that make sense? Any help would be great
Thanks
Nat
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unitypunk79 Samba Member
Joined: June 19, 2008 Posts: 22 Location: Fargo, ND
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Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:40 pm Post subject: hammer/dolly |
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wonderful info. bought a $20 hammer/dolly set at the auto parts store today. not exactly sure how to use all of the tools. any ideas about how to educate myself?
also, anyone know of any books on old school body repair. i'd like to know more about fabrication of sheet metal body parts/patch panels. |
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skidmarksgarage.com Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2006 Posts: 605 Location: Belleview (Not the nutt-house)
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6T5 square Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2005 Posts: 1083 Location: Dover, DE
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Guys,
Nice thread here. I have a question. I have a 1960 bug I bought off of a second owner. There is not a dent in the car. I do want to repaint the whole car (black) But I'm getting two different opinions- one of my friends who owns a body shop says to strip all the paint off the car, self etch primer it and then give it to him to paint. When I told another friend the trouble I was having getting the old primer off the fenders with the aircraft stripper- he suggested just roughing up the paint, getting out some of the surface scratches and then painting it. Before I go any further, whats your opinion? _________________ John
65 square 1500S (weezer) sold but always on my mind
60 beetle (Ned)
Quoting John Muir -- Open the rear boot. Get out the stool and sit down. Contemplate the air-cooled beauty before you. - How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive -- Step-By-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot |
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gtrs_83 Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2008 Posts: 1 Location: Las Vegas
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Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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Hello im new to this forum and this is what i do for a living but its sad to see that there are people in this industry that do half ass work, on the other hand we have people like you that do things right the first time and you take your time to do everything right there was some things that i didnt know could be done like using that usc fiberglass filler as a base filler it makes alot of sence and i went to the whole thread and i liked the approach you took to repair the panels this is what made me register in this forum and well i must admit i learned a couple of new things reading this thread since i have about a year of experience working in this industry i have the experience from the classes i took but theres nothing better than hands on experiece keep up the good work and hope to learn more from you later down the road |
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