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gus111 Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2004 Posts: 215 Location: Western MI
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 9:53 am Post subject: Gas heater |
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I'm trying to sell a 73 thing, and I'm getting the question if the gas heater works.
I have never even tried to get it running (heater that is). So I am looking in to try and fire it up.
1st I have no power going to the pump, in which I have been going through some old threats on the subject. I see that the power wire should be the green one.
Does anyone have the wire diagram for the BN4 heaters.
And what should I look out for when running this heater?... noise? fire danger? or anything else.
Thanks Scott |
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markie61 Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2005 Posts: 583 Location: Northern Virginia
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ztnoo Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2005 Posts: 801 Location: Indiana
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gus111 Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2004 Posts: 215 Location: Western MI
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 11:27 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the links on the wire diagrams.
I have power to the pump as it should be, and the fan motor sounds smooth too.
I'm just a little nervious about starting it up.
Any precautions I should take 1st? |
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Ferretkona Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2005 Posts: 1306 Location: Columbia, CA
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 11:34 am Post subject: |
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If you have never ran it, make sure the exhaust is clear. Bad time to find a old nest in it. |
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gus111 Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2004 Posts: 215 Location: Western MI
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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I'm still having problems..... I can get the pump to click once when I put another power supply to it. But can not get any fuel to come out the pump (while connected to fuel line).
Is the pump supose to click constantly whenI put 12V to it or ist only supose to click once (power from heater unit pulsates?).
I do show to have 12V to the preen wire going to the pump. |
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FreakCitySF Samba Member
Joined: June 08, 2004 Posts: 642 Location: San Francisco
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 8:33 pm Post subject: |
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I wish those pics were working on that wiki Thing link. |
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Woreign Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2006 Posts: 2841 Location: Crestview FL
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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The fuel pump is solenoid-type pump. It is designed to operate intermittently. There is a gear somewhere within the heater that actuates the pump every so many revolutions. So, if you want to test the pump, you need to open and close the current repeatedly. |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17273 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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gus111 wrote: |
..... I can get the pump to click once when I put another power supply to it. |
Do not apply continuous power to the pump, it is designed to have pulsed power. |
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Ian Epperson Samba Member
Joined: January 12, 2005 Posts: 2262 Location: Alameda, CA
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Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:41 am Post subject: |
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gus111 wrote: |
I'm still having problems..... I can get the pump to click once when I put another power supply to it. But can not get any fuel to come out the pump (while connected to fuel line).
Is the pump supose to click constantly whenI put 12V to it or ist only supose to click once (power from heater unit pulsates?).
I do show to have 12V to the preen wire going to the pump. |
As Woreign said, the pump is a solonoid - it'll give one squirt of gas every time 12v is applied. When the pump is working, you'll get about a pulse every second of 12v. This is driven off of the fan - there is a switch that trips on every couple of revolutions.
The good news is that it worked once! Usually, the pump locks up requiring some maintenence (hitting it with a hammer often helps!) Check both the fuse and circuit breaker on the heater controller. The fuse blows when the heater over-temps which kills power to the entire unit - this should be an 8 amp fuse as it's supposed to blow. Internally, the heater shorts out at around 300 degrees. If the fan runs too long and no heat happens, the circuit breaker will pop - reset it by moving sliding the switch to the side (toward the passenger side IIRC) and it'll click quietly.
Very very often, the thermostat is frozen up. That cable from the compartment on the left is supposed to rotate the bi-metallic spring to change when the thermostat opens and closes. It's a very simple circuit in-line with the dashboard switch. The thermostat is supposed to prevent the heater from going over 212 degrees as read at the outlet. When the heater gets to 212 (or wherever it's set) the thermostat cuts power to the pump and the fan cools the unit until the thermostat re-engages and the unit heats up again. If it goes over 300 degrees, the fuse pops. When the thermostat is frozen, the bi-metallic spring can't rotate the little shaft it's bolted to, and the power is never cut - then it runs up to 300 and the entire thing stops.
It works great - when it works. |
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Thingggg Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2004 Posts: 353
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Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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gus11 you have PM |
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