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Fuel injection relief here!
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Bikesrus
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am looking for some help, I am new to this site so please excuse me if I do not have right yet, I have a 1978 2.0 fuel injected bus. Runs great, but I am not able to get the idle low enough to pass a smog test. I have replaced temp sensor2, some vacuum lines, set and reset the timing, holds fine at 7.5, idle adjustment screw all the way in, and the rpm's are about 1050 . I can adjust the idle up, just not any lower, any thoughts would be great.
Thanks
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 2:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bikesrus wrote:
I am looking for some help, I am new to this site so please excuse me if I do not have right yet, I have a 1978 2.0 fuel injected bus. Runs great, but I am not able to get the idle low enough to pass a smog test. I have replaced temp sensor2, some vacuum lines, set and reset the timing, holds fine at 7.5, idle adjustment screw all the way in, and the rpm's are about 1050 . I can adjust the idle up, just not any lower, any thoughts would be great.
Thanks


Try disconnecting the throttle cable by loosening the clamp and see if that helps.
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ddare
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anyone in the LA area is looking to convert back to FI, this guy is getting rid of what looks like a complete setup for $50, wants it gone by tomorrow. He's in Santa Clarita (if he was closer I'd probably pick it up): http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/4333381571.html
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bloch
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 1971 FI Squareback that is my daily driver (weather permitting, different issue). I had not driven it for a week. I got into it to run some aarons when I noticed that at stops the motor was heisting but once up to speed it was fine. I got to my second stop and it would not start. It would crank and crank but would not start. I got it towed home and tried to figure out what was going on. Started with the basics Air, Spark, and Fuel. Well the first one not too hard. Second went through the ignition system everything appeared to be in good order. I have spark off the plug wires. For good measure I did a tune up and replace the plugs, points, rotor, and cap. So on to the Fuel system. I replaced the fuel filter when I first bought the car along with all of the rubber fuel lines, and the fuel pump. But 12xxx miles later, maybe that is my issues. So I check the fuel pressure by hooking up a gauge to the nipple between #3 and #4 injectors. Turned the key and no movement on the gauge, took gauge off and checked the gauge with compressed air, gauge works. I put it back in and turned the key nothing. So I replace the fuel filter and put it back together and still no fuel pressure. I took the fuel line off before #3 injector, and had someone turn the key, fuel dribbled out maybe 2 or 3 psi not close to what it should be. When the key is turned to the On position the pump makes its tell tale priming noise, so I don't think the pump burned out but maybe clogged? Oh yeah checked voltage on the pump at it was 12.8. I read at the very beginning of this Thread about soaking the pump in diesel. Could that help? Could the fuel lines become clogged even with a filter as I tested the fuel line by #3 maybe the line is clogged along the chassis? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Oh my experience with working on VW all self taught, I do have a Bentley manual well two of them.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bloch wrote:
I have a 1971 FI Squareback that is my daily driver (weather permitting, different issue). I had not driven it for a week. I got into it to run some aarons when I noticed that at stops the motor was heisting but once up to speed it was fine. I got to my second stop and it would not start. It would crank and crank but would not start. I got it towed home and tried to figure out what was going on. Started with the basics Air, Spark, and Fuel. Well the first one not too hard. Second went through the ignition system everything appeared to be in good order. I have spark off the plug wires. For good measure I did a tune up and replace the plugs, points, rotor, and cap. So on to the Fuel system. I replaced the fuel filter when I first bought the car along with all of the rubber fuel lines, and the fuel pump. But 12xxx miles later, maybe that is my issues. So I check the fuel pressure by hooking up a gauge to the nipple between #3 and #4 injectors. Turned the key and no movement on the gauge, took gauge off and checked the gauge with compressed air, gauge works. I put it back in and turned the key nothing. So I replace the fuel filter and put it back together and still no fuel pressure. I took the fuel line off before #3 injector, and had someone turn the key, fuel dribbled out maybe 2 or 3 psi not close to what it should be. When the key is turned to the On position the pump makes its tell tale priming noise, so I don't think the pump burned out but maybe clogged? Oh yeah checked voltage on the pump at it was 12.8. I read at the very beginning of this Thread about soaking the pump in diesel. Could that help? Could the fuel lines become clogged even with a filter as I tested the fuel line by #3 maybe the line is clogged along the chassis? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Oh my experience with working on VW all self taught, I do have a Bentley manual well two of them.


First, make sure that you have actual fuel flow from the tank to the filter and pump.
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bloch
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuel flow from the tank to the filter and to the pump is good. I checked and there are no obstructions from the tank to the pump. There are also no clogs in the fuel loop, I blew the loop out with compressed air. The pump is still pumping when the key is turned just not pumping enough to get the psi up. Is it possible for a fuel pump to have build up in side and cause the pump to still pump but not create a high enough psi? Can you clean it? or is the pump on the way out? I had a very hard time finding a original system pump and it was not cheap. Is there any other option for a pump?
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your stock fuel pressure regulator will adjust fuel PSI up & down.
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bloch
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you. The problem seems to me that the pump is not pumping hard enough to create any pressure, although I have not touched the regulator. I will see if I can Adj the regulator to create some kind of psi. I hooked up a psi gauge that reads up to 100 psi and the needle does not move at all when i turn the key. When I put the fuel pump in a couple years ago, I would turn the key and I would see the psi gauge move right away, two key turns and it would read correct psi for injectors. Do regulators go out?
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bloch wrote:
The fuel flow from the tank to the filter and to the pump is good. I checked and there are no obstructions from the tank to the pump. There are also no clogs in the fuel loop, I blew the loop out with compressed air. The pump is still pumping when the key is turned just not pumping enough to get the psi up. Is it possible for a fuel pump to have build up in side and cause the pump to still pump but not create a high enough psi? Can you clean it? or is the pump on the way out? I had a very hard time finding a original system pump and it was not cheap. Is there any other option for a pump?


It could be that the pump is pumping it all through the return. The Airtex 2000 pump is a good sub- just block off the return line from the pump to the tank and run the Airtex in- line on the pressure side.
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diondurst
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:55 pm    Post subject: 1973 VW Squareback FI problems Reply with quote

This is a 1973 VW Square( still all original) I just had a full tune up plugs points and wires, new fuel injectors, new hoses, fuel filters and boiled the tank. From a cold start the engine works great and run fine but after about 20 minutes of driving I will slip down into 2-3 cylinders and you can smell it dumping gas. My mechanic here is pushing to go to a carb but I am not sold just yet.

All the wires appear to be connected well and have been replaced. Any ideas?
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't succumb to the lazy mechanic's advice to go carb. If it starts and runs it's worth keeping the FI. Even if it doesn't, but you're already miles ahead.

First check the easy and cheap things:
1) Check for good spark at all cylinders. You can pull plug wires and also injector wires and tell which are or are not firing and probably why.
2) Check all hoses for leaks.
3) Check your MPS for vacuum leaks.
4) Check your temp sensor values cold and hot with a VOM.
Only then should you get into the FI parts. The vast majority of failures are not FI related at all, so throwing parts at the problem is seldom valid.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 VW Squareback FI problems Reply with quote

diondurst wrote:
This is a 1973 VW Square( still all original) I just had a full tune up plugs points and wires, new fuel injectors, new hoses, fuel filters and boiled the tank. From a cold start the engine works great and run fine but after about 20 minutes of driving I will slip down into 2-3 cylinders and you can smell it dumping gas. My mechanic here is pushing to go to a carb but I am not sold just yet.

All the wires appear to be connected well and have been replaced. Any ideas?


What type of spark plugs?
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Tram
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
Don't succumb to the lazy mechanic's advice to go carb. If it starts and runs it's worth keeping the FI. Even if it doesn't, but you're already miles ahead.

First check the easy and cheap things:
1) Check for good spark at all cylinders. You can pull plug wires and also injector wires and tell which are or are not firing and probably why.
2) Check all hoses for leaks.
3) Check your MPS for vacuum leaks.
4) Check your temp sensor values cold and hot with a VOM.
Only then should you get into the FI parts. The vast majority of failures are not FI related at all, so throwing parts at the problem is seldom valid.


Add to this: Make sure the charging system is putting out no less than 14.1 volts.
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diondurst
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 7:36 pm    Post subject: Thanks guys Reply with quote

Tram I dont know what kind of plugs but I will find out. And I will start through this list and see what I come up with. Thank you so much for taking the time. This fuel injection is sticking around a little longer!
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, a bit of history here. 69 Squareback, manual trans. I bought this car not running with the FI still in tact, with a the typical 'custom' wiring mods, the typical fuel pump relay bypassed with with a toggle switch. I did all the typical stuff you do to get a type 3 in good running shape, and it ran good once I got everything in order. Once it was running began to focus on on the chassis of the car so it sat for abt a year and a half. Now that she's a good roller I've been having a heck of a time getting it to run half as good as it did. The ignition aspect is in good order, I have the fuel pressure dialed in at 30 lbs for now, but I can't get consistent injector pulse out of it. The ECU is getting power, the distributor seems to be sending out signal, I check terminal 12 on the plug on the side of the distributor with a VOM & it seems to distribute the signal to terminals 21 & 22 when it supposed to. When I turn the motor by hand the injectors don't click. I've check them with a noid lite as well. I've combed the harness for broken wires & repaired them. The trigger contacts look pretty good to me. Only thing that comes to mind is maybe a ground issue but I have spark. Sorry for being wordy but, any ideas?

Here's a pic of the distributor contacts underneath for the injectors. I forget the technical term

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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rosevillain
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just going to get this out of the way so that Tram doesn't have to....
A stock type 3 d-jet WILL WORK WELL in stock configuration, there are no 'typical' mods, the Bosch factory built a very good system. Put it back to stock so that we are sure that evrything works as it should.

A fuel injection ground issue wil not affect spark. Check your grounds, vacuum leaks, ignition, etc.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rosevillain wrote:
Just going to get this out of the way so that Tram doesn't have to....
A stock type 3 d-jet WILL WORK WELL in stock configuration, there are no 'typical' mods, the Bosch factory built a very good system. Put it back to stock so that we are sure that evrything works as it should.

A fuel injection ground issue wil not affect spark. Check your grounds, vacuum leaks, ignition, etc.


I have spark. The car will start with a squirt of starter fluid. When I say "typical mods", I'm referring to things that you see that uninformed PO's do to cars to attempt to get by without fixing the real problem. I have every intention on putting the relay wiring in tact after I figure out the issue at hand.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You either have injector ground wires off or a trigger point issue- when you say you tested them, was that in the distributor with you turning the rotor?

Try adjusting your throttle switch per Bentley also.

Make sure your wires going to the trigger points are intact under the boot on the plug.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
You either have injector ground wires off or a trigger point issue- when you say you tested them, was that in the distributor with you turning the rotor?

Try adjusting your throttle switch per Bentley also.

Make sure your wires going to the trigger points are intact under the boot on the plug.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It would seem that these wires were pulled loose when I put the ECU back in place...oops. It now starts, runs but I'm not sure how well yet being that's it's cold today & the shop is closed up. I'll report back with an update. And yes, I do know that the vacuum hose is missing Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuhq64 wrote:
Tram wrote:
You either have injector ground wires off or a trigger point issue- when you say you tested them, was that in the distributor with you turning the rotor?

Try adjusting your throttle switch per Bentley also.

Make sure your wires going to the trigger points are intact under the boot on the plug.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It would seem that these wires were pulled loose when I put the ECU back in place...oops. It now starts, runs but I'm not sure how well yet being that's it's cold today & the shop is closed up. I'll report back with an update. And yes, I do know that the vacuum hose is missing Very Happy


It's gonna run like crap unless that hose is in place.
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