Fuel injection relief here!

[gimpy60]

Don't say probably. I am attempting a t-4 swap in a '65 square. The engine is a '77, I have a '78 & '79 brain. Will either one work or do I need to source a '77? (all bus parts)
I realize the t-4 is a different type of system, but maybe one of you can tell me as the fi systems are mostly greek to me at this point.

TIA Gimpy
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How the hell ya spost ta fix it, ya don't even know how it works boy

[KTPhil]

It is not clear what you are trying to install in your square. Please clarify your terms... T-4 can mean a late Bus I think, or Type 4 which was not made after '74.

If you are asking about the Bus, it is probably better to ask about interchangeability on the late Bus forum. This thread is for the Type III D-Jet FI system, though you will occasionally find other FI topics mentioned.

[tomf51]

No, I mean the spacer between the cylinder head and the intake manifold, that are paired with the paper gaskets. I wonder if mine was crushed by too much torque on the manifold studs?

[KTPhil]

Aha! Got it.

I don't have spares, either; I guess I need to keep an eye out for them when you/we find a source.

[Bobnotch]

[Tram]

[Barter_Builder]

Working on a 69 FI Squareback. Was given a fuel pump that was said to work but leaked when I installed it. I am going to change over to the Ford Ranger pump. The questions I have are electrical. I was wondering what these parts are for and do you connect the relay type thing to positive or negative? Does it look like a good idea to try and use it as is?

[Donnie strickland]

That second picture is a circuit breaker, which was not original to the car. It was probably for a dealer-installed air conditioning system, and is not related to the fuel pump relay. If you do a search for "fuel pump relay" you can find lots of info on location and wiring.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[Barter_Builder]

Makes sense.

[bluebeetle63]

Hi everyone, I need help. I have a January of 71 squareback which is still fuel injected. The engine runs, starts pretty good but it has little power. It's a stick. I have to climb hills in second or first, and some I can barely make in first. I have not dealt much in FI, this is my first car with it. Sometimes when the engine is running it will idle, build up (idle faster) and then suddenly drop, build up, and drop again, but not die. It jerks, (loses all power for a moment) during driving sometimes. Per the idiot book I set the idle at 850 and timed it. I could not however set the throttle valve switch, because if I set it the way he says in the book the problem becomes obvious and worse. I can get it to stop the idle up, drop and idle up thing if I make sure the throttle valve switch is turned far enough counter clockwise as to where the butterfly is closed, but I think that might be why It's suffering from lack of power. Also, if the throttle valve switch is set correctly the idle up and drop thing will stop if I take 1 of the injector plugs off, it will idle lower but it idles steadier. does anyone have any idea that can help me? I really want to take it to a show on October 5th. Thanks
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The time will come when we as a people rise above and free ourselves from the oppression of the most cruel establishment ever known. The Department of Motor Vehicles.

[Mike Fisher]

Are all 4 injectors spraying fuel well? Take off the air cleaner & unbolt the pairs of injectors. Unhook the coil & turn the engine over with the injectors spraying fuel on top of the engine. They should have a cone pattern spray. A $5 Remote Starter Button from Harbor Freight will allow you to do this all by yourself!

P.S. Any vacuum leak will ruin your performance!
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[bluebeetle63]

could not try that trick tonight, but I will. The oil cooler sprung a bad leak, the seals were like rocks. but I doubt they all would have sprayed fuel well. I saw this when I took it apart.

I put the yellow in a couple of days ago when I realized one was not firing. I noticed the end caps looked weird and I feel like an idiot for not realizing it was a big problem. In the pic of the head you can see which port the yellow was firing into, nice and clean.
anyone have any thoughts if I can just take the end caps off? I have a manifold with injectors still attached, grabbed it out of a junk yard, and it looks like someone was running their car with no end caps. Or possibly that's why it was at the junker I think I will take them off the bad ones and try the spray test, and see how they spray vs the good (yellow) injector.
_________________
The time will come when we as a people rise above and free ourselves from the oppression of the most cruel establishment ever known. The Department of Motor Vehicles.

[Mike Fisher]

It is usually the wiring to the injector at fault rather than the injector itself being bad, so test wiring/connectors before injectors.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[bluebeetle63]

I found what seems to have been the problem. The power problem was the injector caps, I scrounged up a set with good caps and it has the power it should, but it would still jerk or stall. when idling it would build up and drop, and repeat. Opening the throttle valve switch I saw the two sets of contacts, both were closed at the same time so I pried one apart and it fixed the problem. I surmise the two sets should never be closed at the same time. After some adjustment all seems to be well. Thanks' for the help.
_________________
The time will come when we as a people rise above and free ourselves from the oppression of the most cruel establishment ever known. The Department of Motor Vehicles.

[raygreenwood]

[rosevillain]

Two pages back, I was looking for a miss under load. After checking everything four or five times, I removed the Pertronix. Idle is much smoother, and I'll drive it to work tomorrow to be sure. My guess is that the Pertronix made the distributor have to twist like 45 degrees in order to set the timing, causing the injectors to fire way out of phase. I considered trying to move the injector points, but it seemed like WAY too far.

[tkovich]

I have a 1973 VW Squareback Fuel Injection. I am able to start the car if I disconnect the cables from the fuel pump and temporary attach a 12V supply to it. Please tell what you think the problem may be and tell me where they are located in the car. The car is all original.
Thanks,
Tom

[KTPhil]

Two relays feed that pump. The first is the Main FI Relay under the back seat. Don't confuse that one with the rear window defogger relay next to it. The second is the Fuel Pump Relay which is on the firewall in the area of the fusebox. Check all wires and connectors, and be sure both relays are grounded through their mounting screws. Then check the ECU pump wire #19 which is in the engine bay, towards the front of the car, left side.

There are other wires and connectors to check, but these are the usual problem areas.

(1) fuel pump
(2) fuel pump relay
(3) main FI relay
(T1) wire 19

Here is the location of wire 19, T1 connector-- where the two red plastic connectors are in this repaired harness:

The original connector looks like this:

[cgallman]

Brand new here. I have a chopped 69 squareback that I am struggling with. Cant get the engine to fire. It ran when my son rebuilt it for his senior school project. It has spark, gets fuel, turns over, but will not fire.

[rosevillain]