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sjbartnik
Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2011
Posts: 5995
Location: Brooklyn
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 Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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| If you have a vacuum leak that big you should easily be able to hear the giant sucking sound. |
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:25 pm Post subject: |
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I guess I haven't really been near the engine while it was running since last night, but I guess I could try and track down a length of hose and rig up a redneck stethoscope and listen around.
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'69 FI Squareback "Brunhilde" |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34003
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:25 pm Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| Does it need to be under load? I think if I just fiddle with the accelerator cable once I get to a certain RPM it'll bog down regardless of whether it's under load or not. I've got an air pressure gauge rigged up to a piece of fuel hose that I've used to measure fuel pressure in the past, I'll try that out too after I get the vacuum leak sorted out, because I think that's the root of the problem. If I could just FIND the bugger it would be much easier. It's a HUGE leak, enough that it brought my previously set idle of 850 rpm up to the point where the idle was so high it died by itself, and completely closing the idle air screw wouldn't kill the engine. It really could be anything, I had my hands all over the place trying to wrestle the distributor back into it's place (what a PITA) last night. |
If you can get it to die or stumble just from RPMs then you don't need to put it under load. Your setup should work.
A leak that large should be audible. The "redneck stethoscope" is just a hose held to your ear and passed over the engine into likely leaky places. You will hear the rush of air when you get close.
Thinking about wilder ideas... any chance you have loose heads/manifolds and are sucking air there? Does it sound like you have an exhaust leak? |
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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I guess I haven't really been near the engine while it was running since last night, but I guess I could try and track down a length of hose and rig up a redneck stethoscope and listen around.
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'69 FI Squareback "Brunhilde" |
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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Could I feel the leak with my fingers if I felt around down there?
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'69 FI Squareback "Brunhilde" |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34003
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| Could I feel the leak with my fingers if I felt around down there? |
Probably not, with the heat, moving air, and cramped quarters. |
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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Geez, I've got so much stuff to do for the square in the next week, I've got a voltage regulator to replace, a decklid hinge to fix, a horn to repair, a fuel leak to fix, and an airleak to catch  If I keep spoiling it, it'll never learn not to act up on me 
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'69 FI Squareback "Brunhilde" |
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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I didn't really find anything, I sprayed at nearly all the joints of vacuum hoses, around where the intake runners meet the head, around the injector clusters, I only found one near the front right intake runner where it meets the intake air distributor, but I don't think that could cause the massive leak I have and I don't see how that could have happened yesterday while I was working around the distributor. Could I be wrong, could an airleak at the intake runners meeting the IAD be THAT big?
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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Hate to triple post, but I have yet another question to ask While I can't actually open the declkid right now to get to the engine and check timing OR fuel pressure, I rev'd the engine pretty high to where it usually starts to bog down and got one backfire with a puff of black smoke, would that narrow it down to either timing or fuel pressure? I wouldn't think fuel pressure would cause a backfire, but I'm no mechanic, so I could be mistaken.
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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Take the hatch off, so you can replace the hinge. Buy a 16X24 blue tarp to cover the car that will reach the ground so you can hold it down with bricks etc if you are parked outside.
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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sjbartnik
Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2011
Posts: 5995
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 4:36 pm Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| Hate to triple post, but I have yet another question to ask While I can't actually open the declkid right now to get to the engine and check timing OR fuel pressure, I rev'd the engine pretty high to where it usually starts to bog down and got one backfire with a puff of black smoke, would that narrow it down to either timing or fuel pressure? I wouldn't think fuel pressure would cause a backfire, but I'm no mechanic, so I could be mistaken. |
A backfire isn't really indicative one way or the other. A backfire is merely the result of incomplete combustion in the combustion chambers and so unburned fuel gets into the exhaust and under the right circumstances ignites in the exhaust producing a small explosion. No doubt the black puff you got was the force of the explosion knocking all the carbon off the inside of your exhaust system. You can get backfires from overly rich and overly lean mixtures as both lead to incomplete combustion. |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22711
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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| sjbartnik wrote: |
| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
| Hate to triple post, but I have yet another question to ask While I can't actually open the declkid right now to get to the engine and check timing OR fuel pressure, I rev'd the engine pretty high to where it usually starts to bog down and got one backfire with a puff of black smoke, would that narrow it down to either timing or fuel pressure? I wouldn't think fuel pressure would cause a backfire, but I'm no mechanic, so I could be mistaken. |
A backfire isn't really indicative one way or the other. A backfire is merely the result of incomplete combustion in the combustion chambers and so unburned fuel gets into the exhaust and under the right circumstances ignites in the exhaust producing a small explosion. No doubt the black puff you got was the force of the explosion knocking all the carbon off the inside of your exhaust system. You can get backfires from overly rich and overly lean mixtures as both lead to incomplete combustion. |
In all the training I ever had we were taught that "backfire" comes from incorrect timing or too lean since too rich tends to extinguish the spark. That's in the combustion chamber, though. I have seen unburned fuel get into a muffler and go off destroying the muffler.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
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huelsdonk
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Joined: August 28, 2014
Posts: 24
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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| I have a question about the MPS resistance. I measured between 8 and 10 and I get 334 ohms. Is this too far out from the 350 ohms indicated in the Bosch test? My fuel pressure checks out and so does my regulator and ignition system. My injectors are not firing off at all. I was working with the Bosch testing sequence and the MPS is where I am at. |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22711
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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| huelsdonk wrote: |
| I have a question about the MPS resistance. I measured between 8 and 10 and I get 334 ohms. Is this too far out from the 350 ohms indicated in the Bosch test? My fuel pressure checks out and so does my regulator and ignition system. My injectors are not firing off at all. I was working with the Bosch testing sequence and the MPS is where I am at. |
Test the trigger points.
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
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huelsdonk
Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2014
Posts: 24
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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Sweet, will do first thing in the morning! I was hoping from a response from you, Tram. Your knowledge is vast. I'm gonna megasquirt and turbo this beast whenever the fund come together and would feel kinda defeated swapping it over and cutting up the harness before I get it to run first. The way I look at it is, if I have to spend more than 500 on getting the stock efi to work I'm gonna microsquirt it instead, and get my turbo on.  |
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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So I got my new Bosch voltage regulator, put it in, and got solid red generator light. After a minute of two of idling, I checked the voltage at the battery and got 11.9, so I take that to mean it was running on the battery only. I made the drive home on just my battery all the while worrying it would die and I would be stranded. So where do I go from here? I made sure all of my connections were correct, Everything seems tight except one of the mounting screws which was hard to get to is only finger tight. Do I put my old regulator back in? I was surprised to see a Bosch part right out of the box just not work like that, I want to believe it's actually functional but I just need the car to be running as well as possible for the time being. Anything I can easily check right off the bat to determine if the regulator itself is bad?
EDIT: From what I've read, I have a solid state regulator, which is the one with the three nubs(?) on top. I did tap on it a bit with a screwdriver handle, but I didn't realize it was solid state, so that wouldn't have done anything anyway.
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'69 FI Squareback "Brunhilde" |
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huelsdonk
Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2014
Posts: 24
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:14 am Post subject: |
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| I checked the trigger points this morning with my rather basic ohm meter and they seemed to be opening and closing. I got infinity(open) and not zero (closed?). It was jumpy between several hundred to several thousand ohms, never zero though. Does this mean my triggers aren't funcionting properly? Both sides did the same thing but with different values it seemed, but never leveled off at any spefic value long enough to write one down. Where do I go now? |
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sjbartnik
Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2011
Posts: 5995
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:38 am Post subject: |
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| tysonhemelstrand wrote: |
So I got my new Bosch voltage regulator, put it in, and got solid red generator light. After a minute of two of idling, I checked the voltage at the battery and got 11.9, so I take that to mean it was running on the battery only. I made the drive home on just my battery all the while worrying it would die and I would be stranded. So where do I go from here? I made sure all of my connections were correct, Everything seems tight except one of the mounting screws which was hard to get to is only finger tight. Do I put my old regulator back in? I was surprised to see a Bosch part right out of the box just not work like that, I want to believe it's actually functional but I just need the car to be running as well as possible for the time being. Anything I can easily check right off the bat to determine if the regulator itself is bad?
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Does the regulator ground through its connection to the body? If so, finger tight on one of the mounting screws ain't gonna do it. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with this particular setup but post up details of how you have it hooked up (which wires to which terminals etc) and someone who is familiar can tell you if you got it right. |
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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I went outside during my break at work to tighten down connections, they seem tight. I tightened both mounting screws and the ground wire that was mounted to the body of the old regulator is attached to one of the mounting screws of the new one. Still red light. I know my connections are correct because I removed each connection one by one when replacing the regulators and attaching to the new regulator one at a time. Is there something I'm missing, is there something I should do to check if the regulator is good?
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tysonhemelstrand
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2013
Posts: 147
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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Wiring to the regulator
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