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Fuel injection relief here!
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rosevillain
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huelsdonk wrote:
I checked the trigger points this morning with my rather basic ohm meter and they seemed to be opening and closing. I got infinity(open) and not zero (closed?). It was jumpy between several hundred to several thousand ohms, never zero though. Does this mean my triggers aren't funcionting properly? Both sides did the same thing but with different values it seemed, but never leveled off at any spefic value long enough to write one down. Where do I go now?


Ray will tell us that the resistance for both sets of contacts needs to be within two ohms, I think. Take your distributor out, remove the trigger points, clean each set of contacts with a dollar bill (or a hundo if you're ballin'), grease the cam blocks with Bosch distributor grease, re-install and check again. The triggers tell the ecu to fire each bank of injectors when they make, not break as with ignition. Also, I've had continuity between the outside connectors before, definatly won't run then. I think that was caused by both contacts being closed at the same time, an adjustment issue.
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks i'll pull the distributor and clean things up. I definitely didnt get numbers that were that close to each other or even clear numbers. It for sure did read infinity with the engine not running and flashed it a few times as it turned over.
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tysonhemelstrand
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I replaced my old voltage regulator and it went back to charging the battery like normal so I just assume I got a bad regulator, which is unfortunate but I'm just happy I don't have to worry about the battery dying. I'll go ahead and email aircooled.net about getting a replacement, it's not completely essential at the moment.
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rosevillian!!!!! You rock! But unfortunately my car does not... Before i take out my distributor i checked and I have continuity between the outside terminals. Its kinda weird, it flashes 1290 ohms for a second, and then starts rising from about 200 ohms. And sometimes gives me about 3-400 ohms. There for sure is something going on there. Should I remove and check for defects?
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rosevillain
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull the trigger points, clean them up, then adjust them so that only one is closed at a time. It seems like you blocks have worn so that both contacts are closed at the same time. You can bend the metal holding the blocks, slightly, so that they will work. You have to remove them to see what's happening.
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok i checked the trigger points and found that they are shorting out on the trigger chassis. Even when i hold both points open i still have continuity between the two and between either one and the chassis... the tabs were worn as well.
Does this mean my trigger points are toasted? Megasquirt turbo you say?
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rosevillain
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need new trigger points or figure out how to fix yours. Megasquirt turbo sounds dope, but it will run with the stock gear, and a used set of trigger points will cost considerably less.
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rosevillain
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huelsdonk wrote:
Ok i checked the trigger points and found that they are shorting out on the trigger chassis. Even when i hold both points open i still have continuity between the two and between either one and the chassis... the tabs were worn as well.
Does this mean my trigger points are toasted? Megasquirt turbo you say?


And...Supersuk is down to the last of his 36-1 trigger wheels that mount to the type 3 pulley.
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it looks like i have some deciding to do. Im sure I will end up ordering a set of used points for the djet. I want to be driving this thing! Thanks for the help so far and i will let yoy all know what i end up doing. Maybe i'll get to start a build thread Smile
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

New(to me) trigger points are on the way.

I have a new question now.

How much horsepower can my auto trans hold?It's a 1970 fastback.
The reason being, I have a CIS-injected, turbo 2100 stroker with all the works in my buggy, it gets down and dirty, wheelies to no end. If my trans will handle it I would like to swap it into my fastback.

I am temped to swap to a manual but I don't want to be chastised for hacking up a good car, hahaha, and I also kinda can't bring myself to do it either.

So after I get my new trigger points and I get to driving this car around, I'd like to get the buggy engine ready to go into the fasty.
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sjbartnik
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huelsdonk wrote:

How much horsepower can my auto trans hold?


It's not the horsepower that will rip the guts out of your auto trans, it's the torque. Hmmm I'm curious now what the design limits were for the Type 3 auto trans in terms of torque. 2-3 times the stock engine's peak torque maybe? I'm guessing quite a bit less than a 2.1 turbo puts out. Very Happy
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I won't know until I get all the torque! I have been reading threads that say 200hp is ok for it. Some say the type 4 010 trans is capable of sub 10 second runs stock!!!???
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
huelsdonk wrote:

How much horsepower can my auto trans hold?


It's not the horsepower that will rip the guts out of your auto trans, it's the torque. Hmmm I'm curious now what the design limits were for the Type 3 auto trans in terms of torque. 2-3 times the stock engine's peak torque maybe? I'm guessing quite a bit less than a 2.1 turbo puts out. Very Happy


The type 3 AT can handle 300 hp. Drag racers have been using it for years. VW even kept a version of it (in FWD configuration) until the early 90's.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

huelsdonk wrote:
Well I won't know until I get all the torque! I have been reading threads that say 200hp is ok for it. Some say the type 4 010 trans is capable of sub 10 second runs stock!!!???


Keep in mind that the Borg Warner AT unit of the trans (003) is still the same unit used in the T-3, T-4 and Bus AT's. Ideally you want 1 of the later AT unit's (72 on), as they have heavier duty parts in them. Wink

Do a search of the t-3 forum, as there's some info on converters, gear ratios and the like in there.
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Hellbilly3210
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:20 pm    Post subject: 1972 squareback flooding issue Reply with quote

my fi 72 squareback is flooding real bad what can cause this?
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:49 am    Post subject: Re: 1972 squareback flooding issue Reply with quote

Hellbilly3210 wrote:
my fi 72 squareback is flooding real bad what can cause this?


There can be many causes. Might be best to start a new thread so we can dive into the history of the car and help you.
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the new trigger points did not fix my problem... Still no spray at the injectors. I feel megasquirt and turbo coming soon. I have adapters to hold CIS injectors in my djet holes and I have a full turbo set up from my buggy. Should I use the efi distributor or the 009 off my turbo engine until I can get megasquirt on there?
So the new plan from today forward is ;
CIS basic and turbo onto my t3 1600, from my buggy engine, to get up and running
Then I'll collect parts for megasquirt swap and put it on once all parts are gathered.
So I guess I'll have CIS for a little bit but efi is definitely the final goal.
Build thread will be started shortly.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

huelsdonk wrote:
Well the new trigger points did not fix my problem... Still no spray at the injectors. I feel megasquirt and turbo coming soon. I have adapters to hold CIS injectors in my djet holes and I have a full turbo set up from my buggy. Should I use the efi distributor or the 009 off my turbo engine until I can get megasquirt on there?
So the new plan from today forward is ;
CIS basic and turbo onto my t3 1600, from my buggy engine, to get up and running
Then I'll collect parts for megasquirt swap and put it on once all parts are gathered.
So I guess I'll have CIS for a little bit but efi is definitely the final goal.
Build thread will be started shortly.


Are you looking at this as an excuse to modify the hell out of the car, or would you rather just fix the FI and drive it?
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huelsdonk
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fast car is the goal. Sleeper, modified, trackwhore, whatever you want to call it. I respect the original system and would love to get it running but, in that process i dont want to waste time and money trying to get a system running that I'm going to replace sooner than later anyways. I wont hack up the stock system and once up and running without it I will sell it off if anyone is interested. In my mind the 80 bones I just spent on the trigger points could have gone towards one of those sweet hall effect distributor swaps this guy in Seattle is making and I'd be closer to my final goal. Turbo efi bliss Smile
The CIS swap is more of a possibility than a sure thing. I just have it and now and won't have the megasquirt funds for a month or so, and then I gotta learn how to tune it right hahaha Smile
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gavs
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huelsdonk wrote:
Fast car is the goal. Sleeper, modified, trackwhore, whatever you want to call it. I respect the original system and would love to get it running but, in that process i dont want to waste time and money trying to get a system running that I'm going to replace sooner than later anyways. I wont hack up the stock system and once up and running without it I will sell it off if anyone is interested. In my mind the 80 bones I just spent on the trigger points could have gone towards one of those sweet hall effect distributor swaps this guy in Seattle is making and I'd be closer to my final goal. Turbo efi bliss Smile
The CIS swap is more of a possibility than a sure thing. I just have it and now and won't have the megasquirt funds for a month or so, and then I gotta learn how to tune it right hahaha Smile


This might sound like a seemingly obvious question, but are you sure the connectors in the injector plugs are properley seated onto the pins of the injectors? When try to get my fasty running and it was horribly intermittent, sometimes it would, the next day it wouldn't, I found that the connectors weren't fully seated all the way down inside the plug and as such, it wasn't fully engaging with the pin on the injectors, 2 out of the 4 were like this.
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