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Tram
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 Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 4:31 pm Post subject: |
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Pull the plugs and see what they look like. Then, run it 100 miles and see what they look like again. This will tell you lean or rich.
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fuhq64
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Joined: July 14, 2010
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Location: Dayton
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| Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:52 am Post subject: |
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Hey guys. I'm going on my second summer running the stock FI on my '69 Square. I'm pretty happy with it, hasn't left me stranded. However, after a nice highway stroll, if you shut the car off and try and restart it shortly after it won't start unless I yank the lid off and let it cool off a bit. I have a temp gun, the temps on the oil cooler and heads aren't excessively hot. I tried wrapping the fuel line that crosses over the engine in heat wrap but it didn't seem to help any.
Also, does anyone have any leads on injectors? 8 of the 11 injectors I own have leaky upper body seals and 1 of the injectors in my car isn't flowing as strong as the other 3.
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Tram
Samba Socialist
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Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:11 am Post subject: |
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| fuhq64 wrote: |
Hey guys. I'm going on my second summer running the stock FI on my '69 Square. I'm pretty happy with it, hasn't left me stranded. However, after a nice highway stroll, if you shut the car off and try and restart it shortly after it won't start unless I yank the lid off and let it cool off a bit. I have a temp gun, the temps on the oil cooler and heads aren't excessively hot. I tried wrapping the fuel line that crosses over the engine in heat wrap but it didn't seem to help any.
Also, does anyone have any leads on injectors? 8 of the 11 injectors I own have leaky upper body seals and 1 of the injectors in my car isn't flowing as strong as the other 3. |
Define "won't start". Won't crank? Cranks but won't fire and run?
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fuhq64
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| Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:16 am Post subject: |
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Cranks but won't fire. Sometimes will fire once but stalls back our immediately. Sometimes letting the fuel pump prime 3 or 4 times then starting helps but it won't hold an idle on its own
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Tram
Samba Socialist
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Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:18 am Post subject: |
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| fuhq64 wrote: |
| Cranks but won't fire. Sometimes will fire once but stalls back our immediately. Sometimes letting the fuel pump prime 3 or 4 times then starting helps but it won't hold an idle on its own |
First, see if you lack fuel or spark when this happens. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
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fuhq64
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2010
Posts: 279
Location: Dayton
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| Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:23 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| fuhq64 wrote: |
| Cranks but won't fire. Sometimes will fire once but stalls back our immediately. Sometimes letting the fuel pump prime 3 or 4 times then starting helps but it won't hold an idle on its own |
First, see if you lack fuel or spark when this happens. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? |
I have access to one. I checked it last summer and it was still at 30 lbs. I'll double check it once I get my injectors back. They're currently being reconditioned by Rich at Cruzin Performance in Michigan
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blues90
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Joined: March 14, 2009
Posts: 1912
Location: Hollywood ,CA
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| Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| Pull the plugs and see what they look like. Then, run it 100 miles and see what they look like again. This will tell you lean or rich. |
This car is driving me nuts.
Today I drove it about 5 miles after I connected the old MPS . I started it and it starts right off but I had no fast idle until I backed out of the garage then it was 1500 RPM . At 1500 RPM in drive auto trans the idle was 1000 RPM and during three stops and shut down every time I put it in park it was still 1500 RPM . It seemed to accel better . With the old MPS I had a cold start fast idle that dropped to 1100 in park and was 950 in drive always steady that way.
Once warm I checked and the AAR was closed it always closes within 5 minutes .
I noticed if I pulled the throttle back and released it the engine would stay a bit above 1500 RPM then lower back down to 1500 RPM . Still with the old MPS I backed off on the idle screw to get it down to 1100 RPM in park but in drive it would go down to 800 RPM and in park back at 1100 RPM but standing there at the rear of the car I could hear a slight faint popping out the exhaust it was random but there not like a steady miss. Once I lowered the RPM I noticed that it seemed to struggle a bit bringing the RPM up like it did with the MPS I had on the car all these years.
I plugged the MPS that I have been using before and it went right back to worse struggle with no load and slight popping like a slight back fire if I pulled the throttle open and released it . I brought the RPM back where it used to be 1100 in park and it went down to 950 at idle in drive .
The only thing that removes all the popping and struggle with no load and the idle at 1100 in park is to unplug the IAD temp sensor but when I do that and place it in drive the idle is back down to 800 RPM all the time the AAR was closed.
all these years I set the idle at 1100 in park and in drive it was always 900 to 950 . In drive the battery voltage is 14.3 VDC. If I have the idle at 800 in drive the battery is 13.2 .
IN the Bentley it states auto trans 950 + or - 50 RPM , I assume this means in park . It only compares it with a standard trans which is 100 RPM lower.
It seems from what I can tell it is running lean and for the first time in decades last time I got fuel I used the 89 octane instead of the 87 octane and after that it seemed to not accel as well .
I suppose it's possible that the bit of an exhaust leak at the header to the heat changer pipe this is the pop I hear. I don't think it's fuel injector not atomizing proper I say that because I don't have a miss fire under load and don't have a problem with the IAD temp sensor unplugged. I haven't driven it with the IAD temp sensor unplugged. If it were a plug and they only have 4,000 miles on them it would miss fire under load . I have the timing set at 5 BTDC @ 850 RPM and it's steady and I hear no ping. Can't find a vacuum leak anywhere and last time I went through every single wire and connection cleaned and tightened all . Cap , rotor and wires are new. |
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blues90
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Joined: March 14, 2009
Posts: 1912
Location: Hollywood ,CA
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| Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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| just to see if the TPS was adjusted mine is the 5 pin 73 year . It uses pin 9 and 20 for the 2 ten zig zag enrichment and 47 is ground which checks out and 17 is the off so it goes to ground through the forked contact and also turns off the fuel . With an OHM meter I got a perfect reading on both 9 and 20 to 47 opening the throttle and nothing closing the throttle . On 47 and 17 I get contact only when the throttle is fully closed . In the Bentley in the test section page 22 fuel section #11 test it states meter the VW test meter should show infinity when closed on page 24 result 10 seems to now be 11 because it states with throttle closed . Mine read 0 ohms with the switch closed these tests can't be right because if they want infinity with the throttle close and I get 0 ohms . If I check between 17 & 20 I get infinity. 17 & 29 one both switches I have have no connection no matter where the TPS is. 9 & 20 have no connection at any time . The only time I see any connection is between 9 & 47 ground and 20 & 47 and 17 & 47 depending if on opening throttle and closing throttle. Does this sound correct? |
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blues90
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Joined: March 14, 2009
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Location: Hollywood ,CA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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| It seems from what I have studied in the past few weeks on D jet and from what I already knew. I checked all the voltages the feed the ECU and the block grounds and the injector plugs both voltage and ohms to each component at battery voltage the one thing i have not done is check what it see's at 14 VDC . I can't recall the last time I checked the few plastic cover plugs near the top of the fire wall . I was sort of surprised to find once I pulled the HTC plug just once how easy it was to just pick it up and loose the connection cleaned and tightened not a problem there . All the voltage is feed through those connectors for the FI moving them while running is no proof I have a good connection I never checked them from source of power to test those connectors with an ohm meter . That and the bought new in 1997 Bosch ignition switch still sitting in the box . Once the heat in the garage subsides or early in a morning I need to check this out. It seems to drive and idle just fine with the IAD temp unplugged so something is not right. |
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22410
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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| blues90 wrote: |
| It seems from what I have studied in the past few weeks on D jet and from what I already knew. I checked all the voltages the feed the ECU and the block grounds and the injector plugs both voltage and ohms to each component at battery voltage the one thing i have not done is check what it see's at 14 VDC . I can't recall the last time I checked the few plastic cover plugs near the top of the fire wall . I was sort of surprised to find once I pulled the HTC plug just once how easy it was to just pick it up and loose the connection cleaned and tightened not a problem there . All the voltage is feed through those connectors for the FI moving them while running is no proof I have a good connection I never checked them from source of power to test those connectors with an ohm meter . That and the bought new in 1997 Bosch ignition switch still sitting in the box . Once the heat in the garage subsides or early in a morning I need to check this out. It seems to drive and idle just fine with the IAD temp unplugged so something is not right. |
I think you're at the point of needing to adjust the MPS, but you'll need a sniffer to do that.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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blues90
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2009
Posts: 1912
Location: Hollywood ,CA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| blues90 wrote: |
| It seems from what I have studied in the past few weeks on D jet and from what I already knew. I checked all the voltages the feed the ECU and the block grounds and the injector plugs both voltage and ohms to each component at battery voltage the one thing i have not done is check what it see's at 14 VDC . I can't recall the last time I checked the few plastic cover plugs near the top of the fire wall . I was sort of surprised to find once I pulled the HTC plug just once how easy it was to just pick it up and loose the connection cleaned and tightened not a problem there . All the voltage is feed through those connectors for the FI moving them while running is no proof I have a good connection I never checked them from source of power to test those connectors with an ohm meter . That and the bought new in 1997 Bosch ignition switch still sitting in the box . Once the heat in the garage subsides or early in a morning I need to check this out. It seems to drive and idle just fine with the IAD temp unplugged so something is not right. |
I think you're at the point of needing to adjust the MPS, but you'll need a sniffer to do that. |
Well then I'm screwed if I need a sniffer. I have searched every single post and was not able to find one person battling with a T3 Fuel injection issue that has one similar to mine . Most are jerky driving or no start or hard start , stalling not one addresses the issue I have . The only way mine does not have this no load fluctuating issue when I sit in the driver seat and give it some gas and watch the tach on the dash move up and down about 100 RPM until it reaches 2200 RPM or close to it. I can hear it do this with out looking at the tach and when warm once the AAR closes I can feel it in the exhaust at idle like an erratic miss . Once I plugged in the old MPS this seemed to stop yet the RPM was higher @1500 RPM , once I brought the idle down to 1,000 RPM then I could hear a slight popping at the exhaust at idle. Without naming names some say it's the connectors , some say adjust the MPS , others say don't play with the MPS . With the MPS I have on the car and had for years the idle goes up and down but not like hunting or even close to that extreme. Plus with no load or driving if I back off on the throttle quick I hear a slight popping out the exhaust. With a load I feel none of this while driving down the street. To get it to pop while driving I need to accelerate hard then let off . I never noticed this until I started to pay attention and forced it , I do recall a few times I would hear one pop when letting off the gas . Last person a spoke to about this felt it might be the injector plugs . In 2009 when I joined this forum and brought this up I removed the plug from the ECU and checked every wire to every component and got the readings off each injector 2.4ohms and the MPS 90 and 300 ohms and the 2 temp sensors and all the grounds and the voltage to the ECU that come from the relays which I replaced long ago because they looked rusty. I did tighten the injector plug terminals but didn't remove then to do so I just used a jewelers screw driver and closed them up a bit. I did this because I had them out to replace their seals and while replacing the fuel line. I checked every single wire from the ECU unplugged and each component unplugged with an ohm meter to read each wires resistance and for short to ground and nothing showed up even moving the wires and harness and checked it all again with everything except the ECU plugged in . AS you know I read through your entire thread from 2008 when you had all that odd stuff going on installing the FI on your Notch. You had the bucking issue.
If I attempt to apply common sense to the symptoms I have I find common sense does not exist here. My thinking is since my car in drive always did vibrate at idle always did , once I let off the brake it stops this no matter what the idle speed is so one would think this vibration might cause a connection to get funky , in park no load I get no vibration at all and either way I stand there an watch the engine and you cannot tell it's running it does not shake at all and I don't feel the vib on the engine it's something that sets up through the body , with my hand on the engine I can feel the engine pulse for lack of a better term .
At this point unplugging the IAD temp sensor is the only way it does not pop or struggle with RPM and seems to drive quite good. Still in drive the damn vib still exists a very few times the vib did stop was when it was raining for some odd reason which could be anything a damp condition affects because the vib felt is only mostly heard at the right front door which I can stop by putting hand pressure on the right door glass yet under this is a harmonic tone that can be heard and not felt. It is annoying .
A complete engine rebuild and trans rebuild never changed this vib. I always felt it was either the from mount on the trans or the 2 mounts on the rear engine hanger , Years ago I found good ones from some place in IL . Got then after the engine and trans rebuilds I did and the trans mount on the car feels hard and the two holes in that mount that fit over the 2 studs on the trans were worn larger which I realized later when it shifted I would hear and feel a bang sound only to find the nuts were left off at some point before I got it I replaced the stubs and used washers and lock washers to secure the studs to the over sized mount holes. To replace the trans mount you need to lower the engine at the rear mounts and also lower the entire drive train enough to get the front trans mount out so I never changed them . In fact the tranny to ground strap was not connected to the frame and it still started and ran fine must have been using the throttle cable as a ground or the ground from the engine to the ECU or both.
I suppose it's possible with this vib for any connector to become intermittent. The trouble is there are so many variations and opinions out there that you can't quite decide which one to focus on. I realize there are no short cuts. Even the Bentley stresses check connections and once you find a fault go back to square one and recheck to insure you did not create another issue pulling and testing connections. My car other than this vib ran fine until I decided in 2009 to replace the fuel lines and clean and tighten connectors and replace the injector seals and adjust the valves so in that process I ended up with a bad hunting where it would stall at idle but only in park didn't do it when in drive . I gave up and for some odd reason the hunting stopped on it's own but then the unplugged IAD temp sensor smoothed it right out so I decided to leave it plugging in.
I even checked out rennlist to see what they had and saw an old trick to get a smooth idle was to unplug IAD temp on a worn engine. My engine does not seem worn , it has it's share of oil leaks engine oil and trans but not pools just drips. I never did keep track of mileage and lost the mileage and date when I rebuilt this engine If I estimate from 97 it can't have more than 45K on it. One thing that stands out most of all is when everything is plugged in the vacuum fluctuates with the up and down idle with the iAD temp sensor unplugged the vacuum is steady as can be even at the proper idle speed. The only thing I have not replaced since the rebuild are the runner to head gaskets or the IAD to runner boots I have them clamped and did use a good sealer on both sides of the runner to head thin gaskets with the hard stock spacer between them, even used sealer on the runner boots/short hose choose one. I sealed the IAD 4 bolt back cover gasket which was in good shape.
I'll go away now and stop asking . If I figure it out I will come back with the results. |
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:16 am Post subject: |
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| blues90 wrote: |
...With the MPS I have on the car and had for years the idle goes up and down but not like hunting or even close to that extreme. Plus with no load or driving if I back off on the throttle quick I hear a slight popping out the exhaust. With a load I feel none of this while driving down the street. To get it to pop while driving I need to accelerate hard then let off. I never noticed this until I started to pay attention and forced it , I do recall a few times I would hear one pop when letting off the gas.
At this point unplugging the IAD temp sensor is the only way it does not pop or struggle with RPM and seems to drive quite good. |
The "pop" you get is from an exhaust leak. The fact that you can make it pop by reving and then letting off the gas is the sure tell of this (it's letting air into the exhaust mixture, causing it to burn). At this point, I'd have to say you're running lean. Unplugging TS2 (at the IAD) confirms this, as that adds 10% to the mixture across the range. Keith Park says this is mostly caused by the fuels we have available today. He's had to go 2 jets sizes up on his Notch, and has "re-set" his MPS because of this.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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blues90
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2009
Posts: 1912
Location: Hollywood ,CA
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| Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| blues90 wrote: |
...With the MPS I have on the car and had for years the idle goes up and down but not like hunting or even close to that extreme. Plus with no load or driving if I back off on the throttle quick I hear a slight popping out the exhaust. With a load I feel none of this while driving down the street. To get it to pop while driving I need to accelerate hard then let off. I never noticed this until I started to pay attention and forced it , I do recall a few times I would hear one pop when letting off the gas.
At this point unplugging the IAD temp sensor is the only way it does not pop or struggle with RPM and seems to drive quite good. |
The "pop" you get is from an exhaust leak. The fact that you can make it pop by reving and then letting off the gas is the sure tell of this (it's letting air into the exhaust mixture, causing it to burn). At this point, I'd have to say you're running lean. Unplugging TS2 (at the IAD) confirms this, as that adds 10% to the mixture across the range. Keith Park says this is mostly caused by the fuels we have available today. He's had to go 2 jets sizes up on his Notch, and has "re-set" his MPS because of this. |
Probably right about the fuel because before in 91 the car ran perfect , in 2006 it still ran pretty good it was not until 2009 I started having these issues . I have no idea what amount of ethanol they add to the fuel here in Los Angeles they used to have it stated on the pumps not any more. I'm thinking 15% or E15 I know it was E10 last time a few years back when I saw it listed on the pumps. What ever this fuel is when I cut the fuel line feeding the CSV I left a section on the valve and after driving it a few miles two days later that fuel in that line since I had the line up a bit was still there. I'm getting an O ring for my old MPS and think I can get close in adjustment since it only has the one screw and no inner stop . I feel all I need to do is adjust it until the issues I have go away with the IAD temp sensor plugged in. |
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Bobnotch
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Posts: 22410
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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| blues90 wrote: |
| Probably right about the fuel because before in 91 the car ran perfect , in 2006 it still ran pretty good it was not until 2009 I started having these issues . I have no idea what amount of ethanol they add to the fuel here in Los Angeles they used to have it stated on the pumps not any more. What ever this fuel is when I cut the fuel line feeding the CSV I left a section on the valve and after driving it a few miles two days later that fuel in that line since I had the line up a bit was still there. I'm getting an O ring for my old MPS and think I can get close in adjustment since it only has the one screw and no inner stop . I feel all I need to do is adjust it until the issues I have go away with the IAD temp sensor plugged in. |
The big problem you're going to run into (by adjusting the MPS like you're talking about), is you don't drive it enough. Your 15 miles a week (if that) isn't long enough to get a good reading without a sniffer. I say that, as I watched Keith adjust the MPS in his Square at the 2010 Invasion. He adjusts it like Tram mentioned in his FI thread (the FI sticky), but also tracks his fuel mileage and head temps in a book, so he has a sort of baseline to help him know if he's gone too far with his adjustment. He only adjusts it a 1/16th of a turn at a time. Anything more is a BIG adjustment. 
As for ethanol fuels, where I'm at has had 10% ethanol mixed in it since the late 80's, and it's still at 10% today. But it's the other chemicals they add to it that are different today. Those might be part of what's causing the problems were seeing these days.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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blues90
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2009
Posts: 1912
Location: Hollywood ,CA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| blues90 wrote: |
| Probably right about the fuel because before in 91 the car ran perfect , in 2006 it still ran pretty good it was not until 2009 I started having these issues . I have no idea what amount of ethanol they add to the fuel here in Los Angeles they used to have it stated on the pumps not any more. What ever this fuel is when I cut the fuel line feeding the CSV I left a section on the valve and after driving it a few miles two days later that fuel in that line since I had the line up a bit was still there. I'm getting an O ring for my old MPS and think I can get close in adjustment since it only has the one screw and no inner stop . I feel all I need to do is adjust it until the issues I have go away with the IAD temp sensor plugged in. |
The big problem you're going to run into (by adjusting the MPS like you're talking about), is you don't drive it enough. Your 15 miles a week (if that) isn't long enough to get a good reading without a sniffer. I say that, as I watched Keith adjust the MPS in his Square at the 2010 Invasion. He adjusts it like Tram mentioned in his FI thread (the FI sticky), but also tracks his fuel mileage and head temps in a book, so he has a sort of baseline to help him know if he's gone too far with his adjustment. He only adjusts it a 1/16th of a turn at a time. Anything more is a BIG adjustment.
As for ethanol fuels, where I'm at has had 10% ethanol mixed in it since the late 80's, and it's still at 10% today. But it's the other chemicals they add to it that are different today. Those might be part of what's causing the problems were seeing these days. |
All I can do is wait until the MPS O' ring blows in I know the old MPS does not hold vacuum and probably because I opened it and the O'ring was in one piece but was so flattened out that it was level plus I checked it with a small electric compressor I have which can be used as a vacuum pump too connected the vacuum gauge with T pulled the MPS down to 19Hg pinched the line to the MPS and it bleed down to 0 in about a minute . It did the same thing on the car if I have the engine running the gauge T'ed in and pinch the MPS line and it bleed down . With the one on the car now if I pinch the MPS line the vacuum holds so I clamp the line and 3 hours later it does not drop . That MPS is riveted .
I keep reading different things . Jim Adney said that all the MPS O,rings should be replaced and most problems are with the old MPS I have with the bellows leaking but most he gets are from people who attempt to adjust them most he said are pretty reliable as are the ECU's . He said they are adjusted to the bellows they came with , I don't think mine is bad because it worked fine in 91 the last time it was no the car. He adjusts them yet the conflict here is I don't think he adjusts them based on fuel or on a running engine that would be impossible. He felt my issue was the injector plugs . I did clean and tightened them but never removed them from the plastic plug to see if they were tight in that manner.
All I can do is see how it acts with the new O'ring , count the turns of the adjustment screw on my old MPS since mine appears to have an aluminum ribbed disc that does not attach to the MPS housing at the edges it only has a dimple in the center that fits to a removable rounded piece that in turn fits into the back end of the armature shaft and it appears to be held to a brass or bronze Bellows near the very back or the MPS housing which must be held by the adjustment screw . Ray in a post said if I turned that screw in all the way with the back housing off the bellows and disc would come out. I am not sure I want to go that far because that MPS worked perfect before . Then at least I should check the injector connector pins for fit out of the plastic plug . Last time in 2009 I did check for continuity from the unplugged ECU to each component and each injector read 2.4 ohms .
Other than that and lacking any sort of sniffer ot head temp gauge and the little driving I do which is futile because most of this short trip boring grocery shopping freak show is at best 30 MPH for a mile or sitting at some fore saken traffic light burning fuel going nowhere will tell me nothing . If the old MSP suffers in some horrific manner like sneaking up on a glass of ethanol to get a drink and I find no issues with the injector connections I'll just drive it with the IAD temp POS unplugged . At the very least it runs a hell of a lot better with the added 10% the TS2's kill switch provides than it has in some time.
I like my car , I wince every time I look at the fender which is much better after the toilet plunger pull and the side molding which was fine until the day I got the good used fender home and got out only so the damn molding could catch my sleeve and kink sort of how the door lock button some times does. It has no rust on it . I like my car but I don't have the funds required to buy new moldings and new carpet that's worn on the drivers side and wonder if some part I might need months down the road which cost a fortune now . I like my car yet it's beginning to get to me , I am close to the point of wrapping the old original engine with heads , auto trams and diff with torque converter in plastic and all the other countless parts I saved window regs , all the glass , working wiper complete assembly and a good used fender and assorted other small parts , toss them in the back and sell it for as much as I can get and buy who knows what , most likely someone's nightmare pile that is not front wheel drive and needs more than I do. O____________________HHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man ! |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34003
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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| blues90 wrote: |
| I don't think mine is bad because it worked fine in 91 the last time it was no the car. |
A lot happens in 25 years! Rust, metal fatigue cracks get brittle, etc.
| blues90 wrote: |
| He adjusts them yet the conflict here is I don't think he adjusts them based on fuel or on a running engine that would be impossible. |
VW adjusted them using an inductance meter, which I think is what Jim also does. It will be very close, though manually tuning with a sniffer can optimize it a tad more. You need a well-tuned motor with good compression to do this, however. The meter will be good enough for 90% of cars.
If there is a smog shop with a sniffer, stop by when they aren't busy and see if the owner or operator is an old car fan. He might hook you up for a small fee when business is slow. The great thing about that is that you can put a load on the engine via the dyno, and adjust your full load enrichment, too, something that you can't really do with a sniffer on the road or in the driveway. That's for the final touch-up of the end plug/adjustment that gets epoxied. |
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blues90
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2009
Posts: 1912
Location: Hollywood ,CA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| blues90 wrote: |
| I don't think mine is bad because it worked fine in 91 the last time it was no the car. |
A lot happens in 25 years! Rust, metal fatigue cracks get brittle, etc.
| blues90 wrote: |
| He adjusts them yet the conflict here is I don't think he adjusts them based on fuel or on a running engine that would be impossible. |
VW adjusted them using an inductance meter, which I think is what Jim also does. It will be very close, though manually tuning with a sniffer can optimize it a tad more. You need a well-tuned motor with good compression to do this, however. The meter will be good enough for 90% of cars.
If there is a smog shop with a sniffer, stop by when they aren't busy and see if the owner or operator is an old car fan. He might hook you up for a small fee when business is slow. The great thing about that is that you can put a load on the engine via the dyno, and adjust your full load enrichment, too, something that you can't really do with a sniffer on the road or in the driveway. That's for the final touch-up of the end plug/adjustment that gets epoxied. |
I know yet when we are talking how VW adjusted them we did not have this crap fuel we have now. It's not the same thing . As far as the MPS having rust and metal fatigue it's not like it's been sitting outside in salt water it's been sitting with the vacuum port plugged in a zip lock . I took the back of the case off and it looked pretty good to me no rust or anything . At least if it works out well enough to trust I can send Jim the other one once I have the funds to see if he can get that one setup .
My engine is not worn out , it does have a few oil leaks but not bad enough that oil is pouring out I just check it and add oil . I just don't care for the oil film on the engine or the drips on the bottom that hang there. When I find the time to clean it all off I can then see where it's coming from . I am really not in the mood to tear it down to fix them , even if I were since it's my only car and I can't go without wheels that long. It looks like it may be coming from the rear seal a bit and some push rod tube seals and a bit from the auto trans converter seal how it gets on top is any ones guess it must blow up there . I don't see any by the oil cooler seals or the cooling fan housing. It's difficult to tell unless you remove all the tin , none of the tin has oil on it . When I rebuilt it in 97 I didn't have a computer until 2000 and even then there was not much info out there . I didn't know a thing about sealing the head studs and it took years after I rebuilt it for any oil leaks to show up. Every place I used to get parts locally are long gone now. I got the best parts I could , none of it was anything other than German VW parts not the garbage we seem to be left with now days.
If I had or could afford another car it would be a different story then I could take my time fix the oil leaks and deal with anything else it may need . I simply have to do with what I have and deal with it the best I can . The little I drive it may out live me. |
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Shlomi32
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2013
Posts: 118
Location: Israel
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| Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 2:46 pm Post subject: injection review |
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Hello...
i just bought a vw 1970 injected variant
i cant get it run...
i puled out the injection, does they look good to you?
Link
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ziconylo
Samba Member
Joined: November 20, 2006
Posts: 88
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| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 12:02 pm Post subject: IAD (Throttle) shaft replacement_collecting intrest for CNC |
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Hi,
I would like to make shaft reeplacement for IAD (throttle body) due to the fact thet with age they worn out and it is common place for air leak.
Also the body material worn out outside the shaft.
Because it will be made on CNC I would like to know who of you will be intrested in new shaft as programming is time consuming so the guy who refurbish it, would like to have more orders than mine two.
After shaft is made you would need to drill out the body as shaft will have a little bit bigger diameter.
Shipment of your old shaft from US to Poland ca 8-10 USD (guy need to take off cable holder)
Shipment from Poland to US would be ca 10-15 USD (max)
New shaft price with your cable holder would be around 20USD (estimative at that point)
Picture so that you know what I am talking about:
http://images70.fotosik.pl/1031/9394972b06027014.jpg
Please let me know who is interested (no obligation to order) . /just rough estimation.
Mine IAD is 68 FI - I think all shafts are same for all versions.
Thanks
Jacob |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22711
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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Jacob- Is it possible to buy some shafts without having the cable holder pressed on?
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
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